Remove 9800 Keypad

[davidrw]

I am trying to remove a 9800 keypad.

A previous post says to look for a couple of indentations at the bottom and lever there, however my pad is recessed into the plaster and I can't see any indentations.

Untitled

• davidrw
• 11 Dec 2012
• 1

Yes I know the digits of my old code are visible !!

If anyone has a photo of a non recessed panel showing the indentations that would be great, otherwise can anyone tell me where to dig into the plaster ?

Thanks

 

[chaindaisy]

Hi,

Just brief for now, I'll get back to you with the keypad info (if you remind me). This looks like a fairly recent plaster, is this a stud partition wall by any chance, and what room is behind this wall ?

Thanks

 

[davidrw]

Any help willl be appreciated.

The plaster is 20 years old (same as keyboard ) and is on block.

At the time you could get a hidden mounting box for the keypad and we specified that - the alarm company hated it as the builder kept on calling them back when the plaster was damaged by the hinge door !!

However I would like to remove the panel to inspect the wiring before I replace the unit for good & would prefer not to wreck it at the beginning !!

Thanks

 

[chaindaisy]

Hi David,

Give me a chance to have a glance at the keypad specs and we'll go from there, but from what you say, it's possibly a digging out job first as last, with a bit of keen patchwork at the end of it all (remind me, I'm hopeless at remembering things).

Take care,

 

[EightyTwo]

You should be able to get a small screwdriver into the bottom edge (perpendicular to the wall) about 2cm in from each end and lever down gently. The guts of the keypad should pop out of the back-box, bottom edge first.

Take it easy - you'll not get another keypad like this and the replacement (for the 9800+) is stupidly expensive and hard to get. It's also a different size!

I'd be inclined to disassemble the keypad and run a rubber over the contacts on the board. Then drag the conductive elastomeric pills on the back of the keys across some paper or card to clean off the excess carbon.

 

[chaindaisy]

With good advice like that, it's pointless me looking for the manual. Well done.

 

[davidrw]

Thank you both for your advice.

One question to EightyTwo:- Looking at my photo, is everything visible 'The Guts' - ie do I lever below the visible plastic ?

I appreciate the comments, I basically want to remove it neatly and be able to put it back if necessary as a Plan B. However Plan A is to replace the system if the wires behind the keypad are ok - I will be posting a couple of other questions regarding my new system. I intend to replace it with an Ion-40 using current wired stuff with the addition of a couple of wireless detectors.

Best Wishes

David

 

[EightyTwo]

Sorry about the delayed response - I've been away from my email for a while...

It's a bit hard to describe but here goes - the back of the case fits in the wall like the lid of a tobacco tin. The keypad assembly fits into the back like the tobacco tin fits into the lid (with the keys and display on the bottom of the tin). Scantronic have shaped the plastic of the front, keypad part so that the gap between the "lid" and the "tin" is in a groove that runs all round the outside edges of the keypad.

I've squinted at your photo - it looks like the plaster/paint might be just covering this groove on the bottom edge. You might have to do a little exploratory digging with a small electrical screwdriver (2.5mm). When you get it apart, you'll love the low-cost terminals!! You'll probably want to loosen them all before trying to get the board out...

i-ON 40 eh? Not Scany's best bit of mechanical design! Do yourself a favour and use a releasable cable tie (or a bit of twisty wire) to hold the battery in. You need something to hold it in 'cos it's really keen to jump out along with its leads If you use a regular tyrap, it's a pain to test/change the battery. Oh yes... and try not to lose the lid screws - they fall out of the holes when you swing the lid down!

I'll see if I can get a picture of the old keypad in bits - but don't hold your breath!

 

[davidrw]

Thanks EightyTwo - that is great and gives me confidence to dig in the right place.

I think that the builder put a thick layer of plaster on after the alarm company had done the first fix - they then kept on getting the alarm company to patch up the mess when the swinging lid caught on the plaster !!

My only reason for doing it carefully is that if there are not 4 usable cores underneath I have a problem & will have to stop for a while and buy some wireless keypads, the current keypad just uses 3 cores. Looking at the current panel one of the keypad cables is shared with a door contact, however there is at least one spare core present at the box so hopefully all will be ok at the keypad end. I will then be filling in the hole and putting the new box on top of the plaster this time !!

Any other tips on the ION-40 would be great, you have been very helpful on the other post regarding interference. The box comes with a battery tie, however I need to check whether it comes on and off or just on !!