Remove tiles to insert insulation?

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In the process of insulating my loft I have found that the area above my back bedroom and half my bathroom has no insulation at all. This is where the roof slopes down to the eaves and likewise the bathroom and back bedroom ceilings slope down in parallel to the sloping roof.

The space between the ceiling and house roof is about 6 inches so I want to put some insulation batts in this space. The problem is that there is a big purlin going right across the loft just before the roof starts to slope down and although I should be able to insert some batts over the purlin so they go between the joists, at the moment there is quite a bit of rubble in the space which I first need to remove. I've tried everything from a rake attached to an extension pole to a soup ladle attached to the pole to try to pull the rubble up to the purlin so that I can then get it out but the space I'm working in is just too cramped to make any headway.

The only way I can think of doing what I want is to do it from the outside by taking the first course or two of tiles off the edge of the roof and pulling the felt back so that I can then reach up with a sweeping brush and pull the rubble down. There wouldn't be too many tiles to come off as the eave length is only about 9 feet.

I know nothing about roofing so my question is: Is it possible to temporarily remove a course or two of tiles at the eaves without too much difficulty and then put them back and also how much would a roofer charge to do such a job - or how long would it take perhaps.

Any advice welcome. Thanks.
 
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How big are the bits of rubble would a good vac like a henry suck 'em up?
 
It would be simpler to drop some of the plasterboard ceiling, do what you want to do, and then make good. I cant make out if you want to insulate between the ceiling joists or the rafters (or both)?

But, it begs the notion that, if you can clearly see the area, then surely with a little effort you could remove the rubble and push in the insulation?
Why would a purlin be set so low down a slope?

DIY'ers and outside roof work are bad news. Just saying.
 
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I wouldn't drop the ceiling, just keep trying to clean it out. If you stuff fibreglass in you can remove the insulating factor of the trapped air!
 
Thanks for you answers fellahs.

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I did think about taking down part of the ceiling etc but, as a DIYer I'm not sure it's within my capabilities. Also, and I don't know if this would make it easier or harder, I don't think it's plasterboard - it's a 1920s house and I think it's still the old lath and plaster ceiling. This is partly why it's so difficult to pull the rubble out - because it has to be pulled over the laths and the protruding curls of plaster and I'm worried if I dislodge too many of the curls the ceiling beneath will come down or something!

In answer to your question, I'm wanting to insulate between the joists. However, for the last 8ft down to the eaves, as the roof slopes the ceiling also slopes in parallel so there's only about 4 inches between joist and rafter.

When you say "if you can clearly see the area, then surely with a little effort you could remove the rubble and push in the insulation", the trouble is I can't clearly see the area: I'm working on my belly on crawling boards with barely enough room to turn round and there's a great big beam (purlin was probably the wrong word) going across, parallel to the eaves but about 9ft from them and I can hardly see over it because my head's tight against the roof felt, so I've been trying to hold a flashlight (headtorch keeps coming off!) while at the same time I've been trying to use an extension pole with a rake on the end, going over the top of the big beam, to pull some rubble and loose plaster out but I can't really see what I'm doing and the roofspace is so shallow there that I'm not having much success. Believe me, mate, it's not that I'm not going to great pains to achieve what I want. Anyway, thanks for your comments.
 
I have a similar set up a sloping ceiling with just the rafter space I slid insulation (sheeps wool) down and reckoned on leaving a 2" space between the insulation and felt for ventilation.
I found over time the insulation expanded and closed the gap so I then had mould due to poor ventilation.
I had to drill extra soffit vents and slid lengths of 1 1/2" waste pipe down between the felt and insulation to try and overcome the problem, so be warned :oops:
 
Thanks footprints for that advice. The insulation I was thinking of using is 50mm or possibly 75mm batts which I think I will be able to slide more easily into the space, so there shouldn't be a problem with expansion but bearing in mind your experience I'll make sure I leave a couple of inches for ventilation.
 

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