Like this if it is on the valve or on the adjacent pipework
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=102636&ts=66175&id=12381
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=102636&ts=66175&id=12381
Removing a radiator permanently
- Thread starter marge simpson
- Start date
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A drain valve usually looks like this and is opened using a small spanner:
If you don't seem to have one, then (after you have drained the system in some other way) you can fit one of these to one or more of your downstairs radiators.
If you are completely sure that you will never want a radiator in that position again, you can remove the valves and fit 15mm stop ends
If you don't seem to have one, then (after you have drained the system in some other way) you can fit one of these to one or more of your downstairs radiators.
If you are completely sure that you will never want a radiator in that position again, you can remove the valves and fit 15mm stop ends
Well boys, you have got me running around my house looking at the radiators!!!! Need a rest now!!
All of my downstairs rads have got these valves on them.
The radiator I want to take off the wall, will stay off permanently. If I could get the blinking water to stop flowing, then I would just cut the pipe below the valves and put the stop ends on. But thought that it would be easier to stop the flow at the valve and remove the radiator. no joy!!
All of my downstairs rads have got these valves on them.
The radiator I want to take off the wall, will stay off permanently. If I could get the blinking water to stop flowing, then I would just cut the pipe below the valves and put the stop ends on. But thought that it would be easier to stop the flow at the valve and remove the radiator. no joy!!
Oh, forgot to say ------ my ball valve is actually in the grey tank in the airing cupboard in the bedroom, as had a plumber here before as my tank sounds like its dripping water constantly and he said the valve needed replacing-----------needless to say it still sounds like its dripping------so noisy at night when you are trying to sleep.
Also, the water that came out of the radiator I wish to remove was a little brown, and there awas a bit of blacky colour at the bottom of the bowl. But the water kept on coming so I stopped.
Also, the water that came out of the radiator I wish to remove was a little brown, and there awas a bit of blacky colour at the bottom of the bowl. But the water kept on coming so I stopped.
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marge simpson said:
That is most likely the one that supplies the taps. There is probably a smaller one in the loft that supplies the radiators.
It will typically be about 18" x 12" x 12 " and will have a large copper pipe bent over the top of it and discharging through the lid.
It will not be the same tank that supplies the taps, because radiator water is dirty and flows in and out of the tank depending on temperature.
You mean, they've got valves with a drain spigot, that you can attach a hose to? that's excellent. Once you find out how to prevent the feed tank filling the system up again, you can easily drain the system.marge simpson said:
Pop along to your DIY shed or Plumbers Merchant and buy a bottle of System Cleaner/Desludger; and a bottle of Corrosion Inhibitor for central heating systems.
But dont blow us all up tho!!!!! 
Thanks John.
I will go up into the loft and have a look, but I cant say that ive even noticed a tank up there on my previous visits!!!
I think I will try again tomorrow to get this thing off my wall.
I will go up into the loft and have a look, but I cant say that ive even noticed a tank up there on my previous visits!!!
I think I will try again tomorrow to get this thing off my wall.
W
wilhelm
Ah Willie, dont you realise that Im Marge and I know everything, so therefore can get you to put that weapon down!!!!
Well, I have just been into my loft and I DONT have a small tank up there, I dont have any tanks up there!!!
Howver, I have been to my grey big tank in my airing cupboard, and got some info which may help to help me.
The tank is approx 55" H x 22" W x 13" D. There is a sticker on the side which the boxes ticked are for Comb Tank, indirect P and Steel Ace.
On the top of the tank IS a copper pipe coming out like a upside down U shape, and also looks like the tank is separated into two compartments, each one haveing a white plastic cap (5" diameter) , stickers by caps on 1 says "Danger no additives domestic hot water" and the other says "Primary System".
Out of each compartment are 2 pipes, 1 copper and 1 white plastic.
All pipes seem to eventually join up. Theres about 10 or so pipes in total.
There is one from the centre of tank which goes to what looks like a tap - red wheel.
There is another pipe beneath that which has another big valve looking thing on it. - both of these pipes enter the floorboard.
Another pipe leads to a "contraption" which has the words/make/model "Grundfos Selectric" there is a middle "dial" which can be moved, and on the side of this is a selector for I, II, III.
Above and below this Grundfos Selectric on the pipework are what look like valves which look like need a spanner if they are adjustable.
I know this is very long winded and may or may not help in removing a kitchen radiator permanently.
Help
Howver, I have been to my grey big tank in my airing cupboard, and got some info which may help to help me.
The tank is approx 55" H x 22" W x 13" D. There is a sticker on the side which the boxes ticked are for Comb Tank, indirect P and Steel Ace.
On the top of the tank IS a copper pipe coming out like a upside down U shape, and also looks like the tank is separated into two compartments, each one haveing a white plastic cap (5" diameter) , stickers by caps on 1 says "Danger no additives domestic hot water" and the other says "Primary System".
Out of each compartment are 2 pipes, 1 copper and 1 white plastic.
All pipes seem to eventually join up. Theres about 10 or so pipes in total.
There is one from the centre of tank which goes to what looks like a tap - red wheel.
There is another pipe beneath that which has another big valve looking thing on it. - both of these pipes enter the floorboard.
Another pipe leads to a "contraption" which has the words/make/model "Grundfos Selectric" there is a middle "dial" which can be moved, and on the side of this is a selector for I, II, III.
Above and below this Grundfos Selectric on the pipework are what look like valves which look like need a spanner if they are adjustable.
I know this is very long winded and may or may not help in removing a kitchen radiator permanently.
Help
Have you a Primatic cylinder then?
Bet you have.
Winetr is not the best time for this game BTW
Bet you have.
Winetr is not the best time for this game BTW
Grundfos Selectric is the pump that drives hot water round your radiators.
"Primary" is the water that feeds the radiators and boilers. Look inside, you should find a ballcock/float valve like that inside a lavatory cistern, to keep it topped up. If you can dip a glass of water out of it, see what colour it is. If you can look inside with a torch, see if it has fine sediment at the bottom (don't stir it up).
If you can take a digital photo, post it here. We like pictures.
**oldhenry** I bet you 50p it isn't a Primatic.
"Primary" is the water that feeds the radiators and boilers. Look inside, you should find a ballcock/float valve like that inside a lavatory cistern, to keep it topped up. If you can dip a glass of water out of it, see what colour it is. If you can look inside with a torch, see if it has fine sediment at the bottom (don't stir it up).
If you can take a digital photo, post it here. We like pictures.
**oldhenry** I bet you 50p it isn't a Primatic.
Nobody has mentioned that if you loosen the radiator connection at each side with the valves turned off, then lift the rad off the wall and swivil it down so the top is now lower than the bottom.
You need to take care that the rad does swivil on the stubs and not bend the piping leading to a burst, leading to a mess!
If water continues to flow that confirms it is a valve(s) passing.
If no water then take the rad off and keep it upside down until you get it outside.
If it still flows then get a freezer kit or a Plumber and change out the valves or use blanks as previously suggested.
You need to take care that the rad does swivil on the stubs and not bend the piping leading to a burst, leading to a mess!
If water continues to flow that confirms it is a valve(s) passing.
If no water then take the rad off and keep it upside down until you get it outside.
If it still flows then get a freezer kit or a Plumber and change out the valves or use blanks as previously suggested.
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