removing a radiator

[robadub]

looking for some guidance as to how to remove the radiator in our conservatory

it is no longer wanted, so i will need to cap the pipes im guessing ? also will i have to drain the whole system ? not sure how to go about this if so

i would like to have a go at doing it myself but have never had a go at any plumbing before, however i have heard it is quite straight forward ?

have attached a photo and all help greatly received

thanks

Untitled

• robadub
• 2 Oct 2010
• 1

 

[londonboy]

Can you take another picture of the two possible valves on the left of your picture?

You may be able to isolate from there without draining the rest of the system.

 

[TicklyT]

....have never had a go at any plumbing before, however i have heard it is quite straight forward ?

It is if things are exactly the way the textbook says they should be, but we live in the real world, so things rarely are.

It looks like there's a couple of isolating valves near the wall to the left in your piccie. If they are, and they still function, the simplest way would be to close both of them, then drain the rad. and pipes by loosening the compression fitting nuts on the radiator side of the valves, and opening the rad. bleed valve. Replace the pipes from the valves with a couple of blank stop-end nuts.

Careful with the water and any sludge from the bottom of the radiator - it can permanently stain carpets etc. Old towels, Paint trays and dustpans are useful for catching the water, and buckets to carry it away in.

If the iso. valves are seized (they often do) you will need to either bung the system, or drain it, then refill, add inhibitor and bleed the whole system afterwards. The best technique depends on the type of system.

Ideally, the pipework through the wall should be removed as far back as it's connection to the rest of the system. That would require draining or bunging the system, cutting the pipes and fitting stop-ends.

Use a pipe cutter if you wish to use push-fit fittings - a hacksaw usually leaves a ragged edge that damages the seals. If you need to use a hacksaw, compression or soldered fittings are usually more appropriate.

Soldered fittings won't solder if you can't get the pipes completely clean and dry before fitting them.

 

[robadub]

thanks for the advice so far

here are the valves on the left

Untitled

• robadub
• 2 Oct 2010
• 1

 

[robadub]

how do these iso valves work then ? if thats what they are ?

 

[petit_pablo]

They are 1/4 turn isolation valves. Use a flat bladed screwdriver in the slot and turn so the slot is across the pipe.

 

[robadub]

They are 1/4 turn isolation valves. Use a flat bladed screwdriver in the slot and turn so the slot is across the pipe.

ok thanks alot ! so the screw heads should be vertical when the flow is stopped ?

then i unscrew the bolts on the right side and replace them with end caps after i have drained the rad ?

simple as that ? or am i missing something

 

[petit_pablo]

Nope should be that simple.

If isolation valves leak it might complicate things!

 

[robadub]

would someone please mind linking me to the type of blank stop end nuts i need to buy ? ideally from wickes or screwfix im struggling to find them, thanks

 

[stratovarius692]

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/42815/Plumbing/Brassware/Comap-Blank-Nut-Pack-of-2

Put some PTFE tape on the thread of the isolation valve first