Removing a very old radiator upstairs to decorate

[sknodiy]

Hi there,

Now I want to remove an old single panel radiator in the small bedroom upstairs for decoration and then fit a new double-panel radiator with side covers and top vent cover (plus new valves) slightly towards the door side so we will end up with more usable wall space on the left, where the bed is.

What are the correct procedures of removing an old radiator and still keep the central heating going throughout. It is a 3 bedroom house and our Worcester Greenstar 25 Si is serving 8 radiators in total - 3 upstairs and 5 downstairs.

Please see photos.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Simon

 

[sknodiy]

Would the new Kudox radiator accept the existing TRV for a straight swap, without additional plumbing parts?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/kudox-pre...double-convector-radiator-white-600x800/70404

Also, would I need to switch off the combi boiler or could I get away with just reducing the water pressure? What effect would it have on the water pressure if I removed one radiator, without turning the combi boiler off and still keep the central heating going?

 

[Burnerman]

You'll need to turn both rad valves completely off.....the lock shield is no problem, but the TRV ideally needs the head removed, and a decorators cap or other blank fitted to keep the valve fully shut.
The rad can then be drained by slackening the valve nuts, radiator side and it's best to open the bleed valve too.
You'll need a shallow dish and towels standing by!
At this point the boiler pressure won't be affected but on refill it will drop to zero and needs to be re pressurised courtesy of the filling loop.
Your biggest issue is likely to be the size of the new proposed rad.....there's an excellent chance the pipe lengths won't marry up and that could mean lifting the floor to make a good job.
It's likely the old valve tails will fit the new radiator.
John

 

[DaveHerns]

The pipe on the LHS looks like it's bent near the valve?

 

[sknodiy]

The pipe on the LHS looks like it's bent near the valve?

Yes it is like that when we bought the house 4 years ago. Is that the lockshield valve?

 

[sknodiy]

but the TRV ideally needs the head removed

I thought removing TRV will have the same effect as if you are leaving on max setting and so water will flow freely?

and a decorators cap or other blank fitted to keep the valve fully shut

What is the ScrewFix item no for this particular one?

lifting the floor to make a good job

omg, the laminated flooring and beads were recently fitted. Could we do this without taking floors apart ?

It's likely the old valve tails will fit the new radiator

Which part is old valve tails? TRV side or lockshield side?

but the TRV ideally needs the head removed

If I remove this, would I be able to fit a new one to the exisiting TRV body like ScrewFix item no 31811? Unsure if it is a 15mm pipework.

 

[chris_o]

Doesn't look like 15mm pipe work to me

 

[Burnerman]

I'll try to answer what I can.....
The left valve is the lock shield, the right is the TRV.
TRV's don't fully shut off even on the coldest setting, curiously enough - hence the need to remove the top piece and fit a cap that will fully depress the flow pin beneath.
It could be possible to cap the valve after the head with a female blanking plug.
The valve tails are those that screw into the radiator.....a new rad doesn't come with these. Often they have spanner flats or an internal 1/2" hexagon to fit them.
It looks like you have 10mm pipe here.....my small screen can't really tell though!
Adjustable valve tails are available which will give you some adjustment if the new rad is a little smaller.....I've never used them, some say they tend to leak.
If I wanted a new rad, I'd be prepared to lift the floor close by, unfortunately, then hang the rad, use new valves and adjust the pipes to suit.....obviously the sub floor pipes would need to be cut and capped as the work progressed, but that's no big deal once the system is depressurised.
John

 

[sknodiy]

Doesn't look like 15mm pipe work to me

What do you think is the size of pipe work to you, chris_o?

 

[sknodiy]

obviously the sub floor pipes would need to be cut and capped

Could we not extend the pipe work using the right-angled compression fittings with olives, above the floor level and just run the new pipe works horizontally along the skirting board?

 

[Burnerman]

Yes, you can.....how well it would look is a bit debatable but it is certainly possible.
John

 

[sknodiy]

Thanks John, what size TRV blanking caps that can fully depress the pin underneath do you think I need? Please state Screwfix part numbers?

 

[Burnerman]

I really can't say, but with the TRV head off, have a look at the various nuts and blanking caps from Toolstations range of compression fittings......at least you have plenty of time to find what you need!
Others may be able to identify your particular valve and suggest something more appropriate.
John

 

[sknodiy]

Thanks John, you are brilliant!

Can you tell if both of my TRV and Lockshield Valves are 15mm as ScrewFix mostly sells 15mm ones? I will get a couple of angled compression fittings (I still have some olives and PTFE tape from previous DIYs) and few copper pipes and then get the straight TRV and an angled Lockshield. I will also replace the valve tails both ends as well.

What else do I need? Any special tools apart from copper pipe cutter, pipe jointing compound, spanner, grip wrench and pliers?

 

[Burnerman]

I'd almost guarantee that your system has 10mm pipes there, and the valves are the older type with a male nut squeezing the olive, rather than the more common female type.
Personally I'd cut those pipes mid way,and then compression stop end them until you are ready to connect the new radiator.
New valves can either be 10mm or 15mm with a reducer and they come with new tails. When inserting the tails, I like to use some sealant plus PTFE tape on the threads before screwing them in tightly.
John