Removing cylinder locks from UPVC door

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Hi all,

I'm going to replace the six cylinder locks around my house and garden house with keyed alike cylinder locks. I just bought my first pair to try them on the garden house double doors but I can't seem to remove the existing cylinder lock. See the attached photos. I've watched a couple of videos that say that it's as simple as a) removing the screw from the side of the door that holds the lock in place (as you can see from the photo I've done that on one of the doors) and then b) turning the key slightly so that the black piece lines up with the rest of the barrel. However, it's not coming out for me.

I've tried doing this on both the right hand door (three photos with either the red key or no key in it) of the garden house and the adjoining shed door (also UPVC) and it's not working. However, I've tried on the doors in my house and it's working no issue. So something is different about the doors on the outhouse. From the photos I can see two potential things but I'm not sure if they are the cause of the issue and it's just a guess:

1) Below where I have removed the screw from the side of the door there is a further star screw below it. Do I also need to remove this as I don't have the relevant screw bit. That star screw isn't on the main house doors.
2) I saw one video where it says that you also need to remove the front door handle cover so I removed the three screws relating to that but it wouldn't budge.

Help please?

Second issue

The left hand door on the double doors (two photos with the blue key in it) has a much thicker side to it. So I'm assuming I have to remove that whole plating in order to get to the screw that locks the cylinder lock in place? I want to check what to do with that door before starting to unscrew everything!
 

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The screw you have removed looks correct, the other looks too low to be for the barrel. I doubt anything will break if you try though.

Yeah, on the non-master door you'll need to remove the trim to get to the screw.
 
You need to insert the key into the lock and turn it to about 45 degrees clockwise after removing the side screw, (which you have done). As you are turning it try to slide it backwards and forwards until it starts to slide. You have now lined up the centre bar of the lock with a slot in the casing. They will slide easier if you take off any external covers/escuteons.
to replace the new lock you insert your key and turn it again. You will see a small bar in the centre of the lock projecting out at an agle. By turning the key you will line this up so it sits in the middle, flush with the barrel sides. Now you can slide it in to place. Don't take the key out until you have re-fitted the side screw into the locating hole.
 
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@conny @Brigadier

Thanks all. I have been moving the key all over the place to try and get the cam to line up but it's just not budging. I can feel a small amount of give, which doesn't exist when the screw is in place so I assume I'm close. By comparison, when I tried doing exactly the same thing on both the side door and back door of my house (not my garden room, which is the issue) the cylinders come straight out (after turning the key slightly to align the cam). So I'm confused why I can't easily get the cylinder out on the garden room? I've even tried being quite forceful but it's not budging.
 
The screw you have removed looks correct, the other looks too low to be for the barrel. I doubt anything will break if you try though.

Yeah, on the non-master door you'll need to remove the trim to get to the screw.
Thanks @Dave77. How do I remove the trim. Is it just the screws around the area that I've photographed?
 
@conny @Brigadier

Thanks all. I have been moving the key all over the place to try and get the cam to line up but it's just not budging. I can feel a small amount of give, which doesn't exist when the screw is in place so I assume I'm close. By comparison, when I tried doing exactly the same thing on both the side door and back door of my house (not my garden room, which is the issue) the cylinders come straight out (after turning the key slightly to align the cam). So I'm confused why I can't easily get the cylinder out on the garden room? I've even tried being quite forceful but it's not budging.

Are you unscrewing the correct screw?

When all of the screws are tight, the lock barrel should be steady in the door.
As soon as you crack the tightness on the correct screw, the lock barrel will be noticeably loose in the door.
 
Sometimes the barrel is a close fit and it just takes minute movements to find that sweet spot. If you have any covers around the lock, it is best to remove them as the barrel can catch on them.
I usually find having the key in about the number 2 position on a clock face is about the right position. Just minute moves either direction should find it. Patience is the key.
 
@conny @Brigadier

Ok, wow. I removed the door handles by unscrewing the three screws on the front (got a feeling they should maybe be on the inside?) and that revealed that the cylinder were kept in place by a combination of sealant (on the inside) and tape. No wonder there was some give but it wasn't moving. I removed the sealant and then got it out.

Any ideas why they used that? To reduce heat escaping (it's an energy efficient A rating house) or to improve security?
 
That sounds like some form of diy lash up job. Never known a lock to have sealant or tape in them.
 
@conny @Brigadier

Ok, wow. I removed the door handles by unscrewing the three screws on the front (got a feeling they should maybe be on the inside?) and that revealed that the cylinder were kept in place by a combination of sealant (on the inside) and tape. No wonder there was some give but it wasn't moving. I removed the sealant and then got it out.

Any ideas why they used that? To reduce heat escaping (it's an energy efficient A rating house) or to improve security?


Pass, but swap the handles so that the screws are on the inside: makes lock snapping slightly more tricky.
 

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