Removing old tiles then re-tiling?

[rarara]

Quick question....tiles are pulling off different layers of plaster...

Untitled

• rarara
• 15 Feb 2015
• 1

Should I remove all plaster to get back to the dusty wall, then seal with pva prior to new tiles?

 

[delmel]

I would remove any loose or blown ares of plaster, then depending what's left, use bonding to get it reasonable. I would use a decent adhesive and tile away. The surface does not have to be fantastic to tile on. Others Amy advise differently.

 

[rarara]

bonding?

 

[Deleted 224857]

Chisel the whole lot back to brick.

Hardie board and then tile(any weight or type).

If doing it on the cheap then plasterboard,tank and light weight ceramic tile. Could even use hardwall,and then tile

 

[rarara]

as drastic as going back to brick? I thought I could make good what I had!

 

[delmel]

If it's sound then I would not go back to brick, I would apply car lite bonding and use a decent tile adhesive not the ready made stuff.

Before applying any layer of plaster to patch up ie the bonding, make sure the wall is wet and you do not dry it out to quick, keep heating down in the room, always good to add in some ova if you have any.

Yes sorry use the bonding on the deep fills, then skim over with a finish, the bonding will otherwise be pretty porous. The finish if applied well will then give you a reasonable surface to start tiling

 

[tpt]

Just a word of caution - if you do patch it up, dont patch it up with bonding unless you intend to skim it. You shouldnt be tiling straight onto bonding, even if its primed first.

Personally if you've got loads of it coming off then i'd follow the earlier advise, chisel it back, dot and dab hardie\pasterboard, screw through the dabs too, then fix direct to that

 

[geraldthehamster]

dot and dab hardie\pasterboard, screw through the dabs too, then fix direct to that

Hardie recommend not dotting and dabbing Hardiebacker board - is their advice wrong?

http://www.jameshardie.co.uk/images/uploads/resources/HardieBacker_cement_backerboard_brochure.pdf

Cheers
Richard

 

[rarara]

If the walls a flat with all loose stuff removed, just a dusty surface of original plaster is something like BAL prime APD/primer/bond SBR suitable to seal the sufrace and then be tiled onto?

Also, same question but if using something non-tile adhesive like a tube of grab adhesive?

 

[tpt]

Apologies on the dot and dab (although i did say mechanical fix too). I sell mostly no more ply.

I see they are specifying a grab adhesive and mechanical. and of course i'm not saying they are wrong.

 

[geraldthehamster]

Apologies on the dot and dab (although i did say mechanical fix too). I sell mostly no more ply.

I see they are specifying a grab adhesive and mechanical. and of course i'm not saying they are wrong.

I hope they're not because that's how I did mine

Personally I don't see why dot/dab + mechanical shouldn't work, but there you go

Cheers
Richard

 

[dhutch]

Dot and dab

By this I presume 'dot and dab, with continuous bead of adhesive around the edge for air tightness.'


Daniel

 

[simplesteve]

Looking at the original post, and photograph, I would just chisel away the rough/loose plaster, then prime with an SBR ( Weber or even Topps own make) Then use a Rapid Setting Flexi Adhesive on the back of a Tiling Trowel to " plaster " your bonding / patching coat. You wont need to skim it, because when you come to fixing the tiles up you will be using the same adhesive again, and it just LOVES sticking to itself.

 

[rarara]

OK, the bathroom replacement continues, and so far have removed all wall tiles except for those that are part of the existing shower. Was originally going to fit new tiles to the areas the old ones were removed from, but may now get some areas made-good then skimmed instead of re-tiling everything. I am also trying to plan when to do the shower, but there's a lot to think about....

If I remove the shower enclosure and remaining tiles and the wall is a mess as expected then I could get my plasterer to also do this area prior to me re-tiling. But how many days are we talking about before I could start tiling again?? What would be the quickest method of getting this area ready for re-tiling again that would limit the amount of days waiting for things like plaster to dry??