Repair hairline crack in radiator

[Marnhullman]

I have a combi boiler system that is normally pressurised to 1 bar and a radiator has suddenly developed a tiny, approx 3/16", hairline crack around a spot weld. The radiator otherwise appears in very good condition with no signs of rust but it is a non standard size that would be inconvenient and expensive to replace.

I have tried using two types of epoxy resin sealants but they have both failed.

Is it possible to make a solder repair and if so is there a special solder needed or is there any other reliable solution? The crack is so small that I feel it really should be possible to repair it effectively.

Many thanks

 

[Agile]

I would suggest brazing if you were really competent and have the equipment is likely to be the only way to repair it.

It always amuses me how so many people fiddle about with trying to do bodge repairs when the proper replacement is likely to only be £100 or so.

The other point is that a bodged leak repair can start leaking again and cause hundreds of pounds of damage to carpets and furnishings or even ceilings if upstairs! Maybe thats why a professional would never try to repair one!

I am sure that I could do a very good bodge repair but I would not do so or even advise anyone else how to do it! I successfully repaired a cracked car water pump after I was caught in a blizzard in Turkey and it froze up. But that was the only way to get the car back to the UK.

Tony Glazier

 

[Marnhullman]

You are of course correct that a new rad would be less than £100 but unfortunately the system is micro bore with the flow and return going into the same end of the rad but a new rad will not accomodate this so it would mean re-piping as well. The real bummer is that the problem has occurred just after I have agreed the sale of the property so I want to do a decent job but keep the costs as low as possible!

 

[ollski]

You are of course correct that a new rad would be less than £100 but unfortunately the system is micro bore with the flow and return going into the same end of the rad but a new rad will not accomodate this so it would mean re-piping as well. The real bummer is that the problem has occurred just after I have agreed the sale of the property so I want to do a decent job but keep the costs as low as possible!

Why would it need repiping, is the valve also knackered?...if both pipes go in the same end this makes the job even easier.

 

[Agile]

If I was buying your property then I would expect you to replace any faulty radiator!

I would certainly not expect to find any bodged repairs!

Since the house is presumably being sold for at least £100k then why not spend £100 and do the job properly?

Tony

 

[ChrisR]

Brazing would be unreliable because you can't clean the surfaces in that situation. OTOH £10 of Leak Sealer (in the water, similar to the stuff used on car radiators) might fix it for good.
The actual welding with oxyacetylene would take several seconds - the hassle is in getting it dry, smooth afterwards, painted etc.
I could weld it, but if I were moving I'd rather
1) try LS, if no good
2) turn the rad off and reduce the price of the house by the 0.1% or less probably required!

 

[Nige F]

Every Estate agent advertises ....Heating system untested so empty the rad and shut off both feeds @ the twinport valve No less honest than Gazumping Dog eat dog in the housing market, keep them prices rising

 

[ollski]

Every Estate agent advertises ....Heating system untested so empty the rad and shut off both feeds @ the twinport valve No less honest than Gazumping Dog eat dog in the housing market, keep them prices rising

No no mate I will be looking at dippping a toe back in to property in about 3 years so time to start that 30 - 40% drop now please.

 

[Marnhullman]

The micro pipes in the leaking rad go into a single valve but on the inside of the valve there is a pipe that is inserted into, and runs the whole length of the rad.

I'm told that modern rads all have valve entries on the rear so it's then not possible to insert the return pipe; so if I have to replace the rad then I have to replace the existing valve with two singles, one each end and extend the return pipe, externally, to the new valve at the far end of the rad. That's one of the reasons I didn't want to replace the rad.

Re. the other suggestions - I want to do a proper job and not rip off the purchaser of the house - I may well be living close by!

 

[mmalone]

The micro pipes in the leaking rad go into a single valve but on the inside of the valve there is a pipe that is inserted into, and runs the whole length of the rad.

I'm told that modern rads all have valve entries on the rear so it's then not possible to insert the return pipe; so if I have to replace the rad then I have to replace the existing valve with two singles, one each end and extend the return pipe, externally, to the new valve at the far end of the rad. That's one of the reasons I didn't want to replace the rad.

Re. the other suggestions - I want to do a proper job and not rip off the purchaser of the house - I may well be living close by!

try leak seal..

if it doesnt work, new rad

 

[Agile]

"""I'm told that modern rads all have valve entries on the rear so it's then not possible to insert the return pipe; so if I have to replace the rad then I have to replace the existing valve with two singles, one each end and extend the return pipe, externally, to the new valve at the far end of the rad"""

I dont know who told you that!!! Dont believe everything you are told! Go and look at afew rads. All the normal ones still have the tappings on each end as they have done for the last 50 years!

In any case for a professional it would take about 30 minutes to fit two normal rad valves and connect it to your existing 8 mm tube once the system had been drained.

I dont see what your problem is!

There has been some change in the law over the last three years and a seller can be help responsible for undisclosed faults which he is aware of. I dont know the exact details yet.

Tony

 

[oilman]

If you do a botch job and get caught out, please let us know.............

 

[boilerbeasty]

You could just tell them there's a problem with the radiator and it will need replacing. The most important thing is not to deceive the buyer.

i don't know if many buyers would pull out because of a 100 quid radiator. If its a 'fancy' type they might not actually want another one of the same style.

I can think of small jobs I never got around to before I moved house - and there are a similar set of little repairs for me here.

 

[ollski]

You could just tell them there's a problem with the radiator and it will need replacing. The most important thing is not to deceive the buyer.

i don't know if many buyers would pull out because of a 100 quid radiator. If its a 'fancy' type they might not actually want another one of the same style.

I can think of small jobs I never got around to before I moved house - and there are a similar set of little repairs for me here.

No but don't be surprised if you get sued in the small claims for the cost of replacement parts and labour if it isn't on the details. My brother was sued for taking a tiny bathroom cupboard he always intended to when he moved plus cleaning materials and labour for cleaning behind the cooker they moved on moving day....350.00 . It was only 15 years ago we laughed hysterically at the daft yanks for this litigeous culture.

 

[ChrisR]

Then stick it on the details, offer £150, end of.