Replacement c/h pump speed

[Hengist]

Hi again,

Replaced faulty (dead) pump with equivalent from Wickes - new pump has a 3-position speed setting. Original unit had an adjuster with no markings... instructions with new pump say what adjuster is but otherwise are as much use as a chocolate teapot.

When running the pump, it can be heard as a rushing noise all over the house. I bled the pump before switching it on - have I missed something? I have a Parkray solid fuel room heater connecting to a h/w cylinder in the downstairs airing cupboard, the pump is fitted at the lowest point of the circuit.

What is the purpose of the speed adjuster - apart from the obvious of course... ?

 

[weareleeds]

have you put pump back correct way if so set it @ mid speed first then adjust it as necessary

 

[Nige F]

pump@ lowest point then it should be on the return from the rads and therefore the arrow on pump should face the boiler.check the feed/expansion tank in the loft.ballvalve may have stuck and water level a bit low How long did the pump last....I did same install. for my old dad in `75....Fernoxed the system and the pump lasted over 20 yrs

 

[JohnD]

rushing noise suggests gas or air in the systs, if you bleed the rads, does gas come out, and what colour is the water? If you drain out a fair bit, does the F&E tank definitely supply water to make up? (no blockage in the feed?)

(if you have inhibitor in, you can tip the bucket back in the tank afterwards)




For quietness, I like to run the pump at the slowest speed that keeps the rads fully hot.

 

[bab]

If you hav an old parkray solid fuel they should be piped up with gravity hot water so the pump should be on the return pumping back to the boiler .I recomend u ste the pump on its lowest speed as two fast will starve the cylinder as those old stove's have a low output. as long as all the rads get hot when its on it will last longer on slow & give less noise. If the old pump was on slow & was on its way out when u put a new pump in & set high it will drag all small pockets of air from around the system that the old pump did;nt have the flow 2 move. As long as it is'nt dragging air in run it on high 4 a few hours then turn it down to minimum & see what happens

 

[George J]

I've a similar problem. Kettling boiler & noisy pump.

If I replace the 15/50 pump with the more powerful 15/60 and use a lower setting will this reduce the noise from the pump whilst sufficient/suitable circulation for my Fuel Saver MKII?

I think the system could do with a good flush. Is there a DIY way to give it a power flush?

 

[oilman]

PLEEEEASSSEEE start another thread, they don't cost extra and they avoid confusion.

 

[bab]

before changing the pump go to your local plumbers merchants. Buy a ltr of system descaler. £10-15 .Drain ur system down. refill adding the descaler. Follow the instuctions on the tub. If its a mild descaler u may need to leave it in the maxium time it recomends,running the heating as much as u can over the time could b up to a month. Also buy a ltr of inhibiter while u r there & add that to the system after u have drained it to remove the descaler. There r some mild descalers u dont have to remove but thats a gamble as to how much scale u have to get rid of.

 

[George J]

Hengist asked -

What is the purpose of the speed adjuster - apart from the obvious of course... ?

JohnD offers -

For quietness, I like to run the pump at the slowest speed that keeps the rads fully hot.

My main question relates to changing pump for larger unit and using lower speed to reduce noise.

oilman suggests -

PLEEEEASSSEEE start another thread, they don't cost extra and they avoid confusion.

My thoughts were Hengist might be interested in reply as it obviously relates to the thread.

 

[Hengist]

Yes, I was interested in George's reply, maybe Oilman was referring to the second query re: DIY power-flush???

 

[Hengist]

Thanks to all who responded so quickly - what a great forum, I have been recommending the site to a number of friends and acquaintances... and customers too.

I have been out at work, and have just lit the Parkray - remember all the ash and clinker and everything in the room covered in dust?

Then I will try the suggestions once it is hot.

 

[George J]

bab, thanks for the reply.

Mines an older system. I used CalChem 3-in-1 about 2/3 years ago but problem has returned. I intend to flush system again but will take advantage of the opportunity and replace pump at the same time. Hence the question re upgrading pump. Can I cause any problems for the system or boiler(Fuelsaver MkII) by simply putting in more powerful pump.

I think the pump has always been a bit to small for the ageing system.

 

[bab]

u wont do any harm in putting a 15-60 (use a Grundfoss)in if thats what u feal like .There's not much more expensive but do u really need it . 15-50 has a head rating of 5m as apposed 2 15-60 6m not that much difference. 15-50 will easily cope with 12 rads depending on size, pipe runs & bore. Its more important to ballance the hot water circuit & also the bypass if u have one.If the pumps close to the cylinder u need 2 shut down the flow to the coil then open the ballance valve 1 1/2 turns so not to rob the supply to the rads. if u have a by-pass thats not an auto type that only wants to be open about 1 turn .

 

[oilman]

When the 15-50 is pumping at maximum pressure, it can move 0.25 litres/sec, this is the same for the 15-60. The 15-60 is able to pump at 6m instead of 5m but with a reduced flow. The 15-60 is not really going to cure circulation problems.

 

[Nige F]

I have been out at work, and have just lit the Parkray - remember all the ash and clinker and everything in the room covered in dust?

Then I will try the suggestions once it is hot.

Gor blimey, Mary Poppins Nufink wrong wiv a bit o` clinker an` dust.and still no gas in the old village