Replacement floors, part suspsended/concrete

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Hi all,

I've just bought a terraced house, stone built front/back with brick internal walls. There is a large damp problem, damp company says rising damp and is affecting most downstairs walls upto a point. One of the problems I've fixed, there was an old water feature against the back wall in the garden, there was no running water, but brick/rubble/soil all built up against the back wall causing a large damp problem internally.

The house has been empty for almost a year, albeit with windows open, but that probably hasn't helped the damp.

Anyway, my main questions surround replacing the floors, but thought I'd say why I'm looking at them...

The front room and hall is suspended floor, the back room is concrete (possibly under the stairs too, although can't check). The concrete floor was badly heaved and looked like it had repair some years ago, it also showed damp patches. I did a small check and there was approx 1 to 3" concrete directly over the top of soil.

I pulled up a floorboard in the hall to find soil inbetween the joists...obviously not helping airflow. A pulled up floorboard in the lounge showed soild approx 6" below the joist level. There was one airbrick on the front wall, so no decent airflow at all.

All in all, I think most of the damp problems are actually caused by the floors, despite no DPC in the walls (chemical or otherwise). The damp walls in the room with the concrete floor was much worse than the suspended floor, so my intention was to

- pull up concrete floor and replace all with new timber suspended throughout
- dig down the existing one to give better airflow
- put in airbricks front and back to give better airflow
- put in insulation between joists at same time
- use new T+G flooring as the finished floor

However, this is where I've hit problems I don't know what the best solution is. On digging out the concrete floor I found that the party walls had a depth of around 3 brick courses with the last of these being brick footers However, the (non-load bearing) internal wall dividing the downstairs hall/stairs only has one brick depth plus one brick footing so no decent foundation. I've dug out most of the room, approx 200-250mm but ended up leaving a couple of foot near this wall to not cause problems. I presume the rooms with suspended floor will have a similar problem so won't be able to dig down more either.

So I'm looking for a bit of advice on what to do, I really want to make sure these floors don't have damp and the reason I didn't want to put concrete back down was I thought it would probably push moisture back out up the walls as there isn't a DPC to tie into. I also know that regs state replacing them needs approx 400-450mm for hardcore, blinding, insulation, slab, screed - if I were to replace the concrete with concrete again what do I do due to the low depth possible from the internal walls?

I've had the concrete floor up for a couple of months now and it seems the soil is still quite damp, in fact there is mould growing on it. As far as a I can tell there are no waters pipes or drainage go through these rooms so don't think there is water ingress that way, and for reference the back yard is approx level with the (previous) floor level, and front is slightly lower than floor level. The house is on a slight hill with the neighbour on one side slightly higher.

On another note on pulling up the suspended floor, it definitely needs replacing now, as it was all balanced on bricks with shims and boards to pack out, which all fell awat. Plus the small joists they'd bodged together for the bay window were rotten anyway. Hopefully the pictures of the suspended floor shows up here, I can get a picture of the pulled up concrete floor if needed.

Sorry for the long post, any help appreciated, bit stuck on progress with this one.

 
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Please use numbered references if replying:

1. What "water feature"? How did you fix it?

2. Please post a scanned and annotated footprint drawing of the house plan including any chimney breasts.

3. Pics of all exterior elevations - high and at ground level, please.

4. Any work at a party wall requires Party Wall Act agreement.
For the time being, no more digging - anywhere.

5. Underpinning is the only comprehensive solution to shallow foundations - have any neighbours tackled similar issues?

6. Perhaps, you should think about lifting all the floors, and pouring concrete floors throughout the house? Given the depth difficulties, we could still take you through a best possible process.

7. But its probably time to bite the cash bullet and call in a SE to give a view on site (nothing to be alarmed about, its a very common practice) -
pre-discuss what you are going to get for your money. You want a sketch(s) and some brief notes at a min. Also record and note all that is said or you will forget.

8. What is that large beam in pic 1?

9. You should now start a tentative full house rough drawing - elec, plumb, units, bathroom etc.

10. I assume that the house - roof, walls and frames are water tight?
 
Hi, thanks for the help, here are some answers and I'll come back to you on the others.


1. What "water feature"? How did you fix it?

There was a construction of stone, concrete, and infill/soil built up in the back yard which was at the corner of the rear room (see drawing and a photo where you can see the outline after removal). It had a water pipe to it but it was cut off so no water feeding (an awful gnome with water coming out it's mouth), however would still have been sucking up water when rained.

2. Please post a scanned and annotated footprint drawing of the house plan including any chimney breasts.

See picture attached that I've just made, let me know if I can add anything else to it. The chimney breasts are an interesting point, as if I concreted the whole ground floor it would me I don't have the problem of having to build in a hearth. Both chimneys are closed up but I intend to open them both up, at least decoratively in the short term.

3. Pics of all exterior elevations - high and at ground level, please.

Will get these and post back after the weekend.

4. Any work at a party wall requires Party Wall Act agreement.
For the time being, no more digging - anywhere.


Ok thanks for the heads up, won't do anymore (had stopped anyway).

5. Underpinning is the only comprehensive solution to shallow foundations - have any neighbours tackled similar issues?

I thought underpinning might be a solution, sounds like a lot of effort there. Neither neighbour have underpinned, well not in the past 30 years anyway. One neighbour suggests he doesn't have any damp problem (which I find odd consider the extent of mine).

6. Perhaps, you should think about lifting all the floors, and pouring concrete floors throughout the house? Given the depth difficulties, we could still take you through a best possible process.

I'm open to that if necessary, there were a couple of reasons why I wanted to go suspended:

- Easier for me to do without the logistics of getting m3 of material delivered and barrowed.
- I could use the T+G as my finished floor with staining and varnish, so saving on further flooring.
- By doing suspended front to back could get airflow throughout.

As I say, open to doing concrete throughout, although I still have reservations about how it would work with DPM/DPC coupling and hence keeping existing damp wall problems.

7. But its probably time to bite the cash bullet and call in a SE to give a view on site (nothing to be alarmed about, its a very common practice) -
pre-discuss what you are going to get for your money. You want a sketch(s) and some brief notes at a min. Also record and note all that is said or you will forget.


What is my focus for the SE - foundations, floor construction, damp, or all?

8. What is that large beam in pic 1?

It's just the lifted floorboards stacked up in three piles.

9. You should now start a tentative full house rough drawing - elec, plumb, units, bathroom etc.

Is this general advice or with specific intent to these questions? Just wondering...my plan was to bring all elec and plumbing down from 1st floor (needs a rewire/change of radiator pipes/re-plaster anyway, have pulled down some ceilings, and some floors with this in mind) with nothing going under any of the ground floor floors.

10. I assume that the house - roof, walls and frames are water tight?

Now, yes. There was a small leak between the extension roof and original building which I've fixed. Pointing on front wall needs re-doing.


 
The garden wall in the pic will be a damp bridge to both you and your neighbour - not a lot can be done outside but be alert to damp in that area inside the kitchen.

2. I thought that you might have had a knock-through - check how its been lintelled and check the lintel bearings. With the shallow foundations the KT becomes a factor to be cautious about.

Dont ever remove your c/breasts or give party wall permission for any neighbour wishing to remove their's. C/B's give structural support and your properties need structural support.

6. If you go for suspended floors front to rear then align the joists front to rear to give through ventilation, and punch as many air bricks in the front and rear walls as is safely possible. More to discuss later.
Does the kitchen floor drop below the house floor?

7. Leave off the SE for now. When you come back with further info. perhaps post pics of rear rooms?

9. Is just a general heads up for you as your own general contractor - you must work to a larger plan than the job in hand plan. Simply thinking ahead.

If you dont mind me saying: work clean, clean up at the end of the day. Remove rubble as you go. De-nail as you work. Stack all materials in one out of the way place, dont be moving anything twice. Dont bring anything on site unless its absolutely essential - remove it if you dont need it.
 
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Thanks again for the reply and help.

I did think the same about the garden wall, but didn't think I could do much about that.

2. What does KT mean please? As far as I can tell there isn't anything done about the foundations under the lintel. What else should I check? I haven't chipped any plaster off but judging by the new plastered area of the lintel it's a good 300mm or so either side, I can check this properly by chipping a bit out.

6. Kitchen floor level is the same as previous floor level (can just see this from picture backroom-kitchen.jpg)

If you dont mind me saying: work clean, clean up at the end of the day. Remove rubble as you go. De-nail as you work. Stack all materials in one out of the way place, dont be moving anything twice. Dont bring anything on site unless its absolutely essential - remove it if you dont need it.

Have you been watching how I work? :oops:

You're spot on, and no I don't mind. I find it very hard to work tidy, I'm okay at denailing etc but I end up having tools all over the place, and I'm really bad for bringing things onto site to store (tiles for bathroom, spare coving etc) trouble is I don't have any other space so end up taking it there - and yes, I end up moving things many times. I think I need to look into getting a lock up storage for a bit to keep everything out the way.

I've attached more pics, of front/back, high/low, from street and the back room in different directions. Apologies about quality, it was a pretty overcast day, and sorry you can't see much at the front, I'm awaiting a skip!

 
At the front elevation,

i doubt that the 1m render serves the pupose of keeping the damp out of the front room - anyway, it should not be touching the ground: cut it back by about 25mm - 30mm. Do the same with the rear render.

Is the bay window cill rotted?

Only one 9" x 3" air brick shows. Install 9" x 6" airbricks if using suspended floors.

Green splash is showing at the base of the wall - is the guttering sound and clean?

The Interior knock through(KT) partition is sitting on solid non-honey combed brick. Does it have a DPC?
If a suspended floor is installed, then that brickwork must be removed to allow through ventilation, and supporting floor joists.

It would be worth your while to check that the KT lintel is steel, perhaps an RSJ, and that it has at least 150mm bearing at either end.
Perhaps go upstairs and look for any lump in the flooring, or cracks in any supported wall plaster.

Rear Room: you could remove the hearth soil from before the c/breast.
Have i mentioned sweeping and smoke testing your flues?
Determine exactly what you want for your fire openings, and prepare the openings and hearths while all is exposed. Openings must be lintelled.
Why has the panel of brick below the window been removed?

What ceilings have been pulled down - why?
Do you intend to move your bathroom - to where?

Does the kit. floor have a DPM?
Where is your gas meter position?

Yard Area: feel behind the Cast iron soil pipe for rust and decay.
Clear the vegetation from the base of the kitchen walls.

I'm still wondering about the floors and the long term stability of the building. Why not give a call to a SE and email your pics and basic info. to the SE. Simply ask the SE for a heads up on concrete vs suspended wood?
Often, they will give you a brief verbal opinion without a site visit etc.
All pics to be the right way up, dont present yourself as careless.
 

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