Replacing 2 old CCUs with 1 new 17 way split-load CCU

[mdbalson]

When British Gas come to change the meter, I am going to ask them to move the meter down on to the piece of wood, below where the current meter is.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/DSC00017.jpg

This would then mean that I would have room to fit a Wylex 17 way Split- Load CCU, across the top of the meter cupboard. (Where the MEM CCU & the Meter are at the moment)

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Images/Products/size_3/WYNHRS17SL.JPG

This would mean that I would have 1 CCU for the whole house, I could do away with the Henley Blocks, & I would have 2 spare Non-RCD ways & 2 spare RCD ways.

Non-RCD side

1) Smoke Alarms (6A)

2) Upstairs Lights (6A)

3) Downstairs Lights (6A)

4) Immersion Heater & CH (16A)

5) Shed Freezer (16A)

6) Comms Cabinet Power (In Loft 2 DSS) (20A)

7) Shed Power (32A)

8 ) Cooker (32A or 40A)

9) Spare

10) Spare


RCD side

1) Kitchen, Bathroom & Back Outside Lights (6A)

2) Kitchen Sockets (Sink Side)(20A at moment, will be 32A when made into a Ring Main)

3) Kitchen Sockets (Cooker Side) (32A)

4) Upstairs Sockets (32A)

5) Downstairs Sockets (32A)

6) Spare

7) Spare

 

[mdbalson]

Though not a hanging offence, I'd separate CH and water heater onto separate circuits

Why a separate freezer circuit to the shed if you are already running a submain out there?

So that incase the RCD in the shed trips, & I do not know that it has, it means that the freezer will not go off as well. (the shed is next to the house)

Why kitchen lights on RCD? Forgive me, but I can't quite understand the reasoning, I can see the point with the bathroom lights if you are future proofing for the next edition, though I'd personally favour having them on the normal upstairs lighting circuit via an RCD FCU that way you can fuse down to 3A if your fan instructions say to, and you don't loose bathroom lighting when you drop the kettle lead into a puddle on the kitchen worktop. Outside lights, no strong feelings too much either way, though probably better for them to be on RCD, but I'm not sure about having them on the same RCD as half the board (Though as long as the only other things this protects are sockets, then its going to be at most an inconviencience as opposed to a risk), I would however make sure you have a DP isolator for these.

The kitchen, bathroom & back outside lights are on the same circuit & on the ground floor. The Kitchen has 2 main lights (2 bulb, bar 230V Halogens) & under cupboards lights, the bathroom has a 2 bulb 12v halogen light, & the back outside lights are: 1 bulkhead light, 1 flood, & 2 half wall lights.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/P2080015.jpg

The slopeing roof is the kitchen roof, the flat roof is the bathroom roof, & the platic roof is a small courtyard.

No fan in the bathroom or kitchen (only a broken cooker hood in the kitchen over the hob.) (The shower room at the front of the house does have fan, but it's a c**p fan that does not suck out that much air.)

Yes it is also future proofing for the 17th edition.

Can you get 2G DP switches in Chrome, Or Chrome MK Grid Plates then

On the subject of loosing lighting, I'd try and use C6 breakers instead of B6 as long as the ELFI is ok

Why a C6 MCB then & for what lights

 

[securespark]

Why are you re-posting content from old threads?

 

[mdbalson]

Why are you re-posting content from old threads?

Because I did not a reply from Adam_151, about the questions he asked me, & also to save people from having to read the other 5 pages, which are not relevent now.

 

[securespark]

As I may have said earlier, there will be a charge to move the meter.

 

[mdbalson]

As I may have said earlier, there will be a charge to move the meter.

So what maybe about £50 or more, & what about if I provide the new tails (as you can buy a pack from B&Q, which contains 1m or 3m lengths of a Brown, & a Blue Double insulated tail & a earth wire. In 16mm or 25mm) (I would get the 25mm in 3m), would this reduce the cost

 

[JohnD]

no, the tails are your responsibility anyway.

if you want to know the cost, ask your supplier.

 

[mdbalson]

no, the tails are your responsibility anyway.

if you want to know the cost, ask your supplier.

I know that the tails from the meter to the CCU are my responsibility, but I also meant the ones from the service head to the meter.

 

[plugwash]

i think those tails are technically the recs but if you want to try and sweet talk them into moving the meter on the side and they need to be extended then i'd have some spare tail ready when they come.

 

[mdbalson]

i think those tails are technically the recs but if you want to try and sweet talk them into moving the meter on the side and they need to be extended then i'd have some spare tail ready when they come.

That's what I was going to do, as the tails from the service head to the meter will need to be extended.


As you can see in the picture below:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/DSC00017.jpg

The meter will be moved to the empty piece of wood (where the earth block is).

 

[ColJack]

first off the shed ring and the shed freezer need to be RCD protected as they are outside..

If you don't want nuisance tripping on the freezer circuit, leave it on the non RCD side but put it on it's own RCBO

I don't see a shower mentioned? I take it this means you have a "mixer" shower?

 

[Adam_151]

Sorry, not got round to replying until now

Though not a hanging offence, I'd separate CH and water heater onto separate circuits

Why a separate freezer circuit to the shed if you are already running a submain out there?

So that incase the RCD in the shed trips, & I do not know that it has, it means that the freezer will not go off as well. (the shed is next to the house)

I'd just take a non rcd freezer circuit from the shed board

Why kitchen lights on RCD? Forgive me, but I can't quite understand the reasoning, I can see the point with the bathroom lights if you are future proofing for the next edition, though I'd personally favour having them on the normal upstairs lighting circuit via an RCD FCU that way you can fuse down to 3A if your fan instructions say to, and you don't loose bathroom lighting when you drop the kettle lead into a puddle on the kitchen worktop. Outside lights, no strong feelings too much either way, though probably better for them to be on RCD, but I'm not sure about having them on the same RCD as half the board (Though as long as the only other things this protects are sockets, then its going to be at most an inconviencience as opposed to a risk), I would however make sure you have a DP isolator for these.

The kitchen, bathroom & back outside lights are on the same circuit & on the ground floor. The Kitchen has 2 main lights (2 bulb, bar 230V Halogens) & under cupboards lights, the bathroom has a 2 bulb 12v halogen light, & the back outside lights are: 1 bulkhead light, 1 flood, & 2 half wall lights.

Ah I see, its already one circuit and you cba to go separateing it, in that case I'd be tempted put it on non RCD and try and put an RCD FCU on the bathroom bit if want it to still comply next year, or if you won't get round to finishing it before then

On the subject of loosing lighting, I'd try and use C6 breakers instead of B6 as long as the ELFI is ok

Why a C6 MCB then & for what lights

All lighting circuits if possible, to try an eliminate the problem that if a lamp fails the *~@& breaker trips out

 

[mdbalson]

first off the shed ring and the shed freezer need to be RCD protected as they are outside..

The shed has a wylex metalclad 5 way RCD CCU

If you don't want nuisance tripping on the freezer circuit, leave it on the non RCD side but put it on it's own RCBO

I could do that.

I don't see a shower mentioned? I take it this means you have a "mixer" shower?

Yes it's a mixer shower it the moment, which I am going to add a pump to.

 

[mdbalson]

All lighting circuits if possible, to try an eliminate the problem that if a lamp fails the *~@& breaker trips out

All the lights are Energy Saving ones, or Halogen ones (12v & 230v)