What? and where?but ya need to close 1 of the pump valves as well!
What? and where?but ya need to close 1 of the pump valves as well!
but ya need to close 1 of the pump valves as well!
Thats true but you must remember those that regularly change these valves, and I am one of those, have their own favourite methods. None are necessarily right and likewise none are necessarily wrong! Just different ways to the same end.So much conflicting advice......
I would just shut off the water supply to the F&E cistern, not the main tank, if the former has its own stop cock. If it doesn't then shut off to the whole house - it will only be for am hour or so.1 - tie up the ballcock in the main tank (or the f&e tank) in the loft
You don't need to drain the HW cylinder, and it would be unwise to open any drain off cocks near the cylinder.Is there a valve on the hot water cylinder?
Water will stop coming out of the end of the hose.4 - how do I kow when the system is sufficiently drained, other than by starting to undo the connection on the old 3 way valve?
Personally, I use PTFE. If there is paste on the pipework then remove all traces of it first. The wind about 4 turns of tape over the wet side of the olive, and not on any threads.do I use boss white, ptfe, or?)
I would always replace the washer in the drain off cock - when they're old they can harden and break up.6 - shut off the drain valve, and any open bleed valves.
Do one fill without the Fernox first, to (a) check for leaks and (b) check that the system actually fills - some dirty systems can form a blockage that prevents, or delays, them filling.7 - add some (how much?) inhibitor (fernox?) to the tank in the attic, and untie the ballcock, to allow the system to re-fill.
It doesn't matter. On the final fill, i.e. with Fernox, it doesn't matter because you'll have to vent them again after a few days.8 - bleed all rads (start downstairs, or doesn't it matter?)
Yes, but be absolutely sure that you get water from the highest rad vent first.9 - fire up the boiler, and check that the switching works correctly.
but ya need to close 1 of the pump valves as well!
You don't.
but ya need to close 1 of the pump valves as well!
You don't.
it works beta if ya do!
but ya need to close 1 of the pump valves as well!
You don't.
it works beta if ya do!
it don't
OJ - ignore all of the advice about bunging etc. The first time you do this work you'd be better off draining so that you can concentrate on the relatively difficult bit.
Your idea of replacing the frozen valve part is fine. However, you would have been better to have bought the entire valve and at least kept the actuator head as a spare, because the electrical and mechanical components of the head would have been strained by the frozen valve.
Anyway, your proposed sequence of steps is nearly perfect. Some comments on your questions...
I would just shut off the water supply to the F&E cistern, not the main tank, if the former has its own stop cock. If it doesn't then shut off to the whole house - it will only be for am hour or so.1 - tie up the ballcock in the main tank (or the f&e tank) in the loft
You don't need to drain the HW cylinder, and it would be unwise to open any drain off cocks near the cylinder.Is there a valve on the hot water cylinder?
Water will stop coming out of the end of the hose.4 - how do I kow when the system is sufficiently drained, other than by starting to undo the connection on the old 3 way valve?
Personally, I use PTFE. If there is paste on the pipework then remove all traces of it first. The wind about 4 turns of tape over the wet side of the olive, and not on any threads.do I use boss white, ptfe, or?)
I would always replace the washer in the drain off cock - when they're old they can harden and break up.6 - shut off the drain valve, and any open bleed valves.
Do one fill without the Fernox first, to (a) check for leaks and (b) check that the system actually fills - some dirty systems can form a blockage that prevents, or delays, them filling.7 - add some (how much?) inhibitor (fernox?) to the tank in the attic, and untie the ballcock, to allow the system to re-fill.
It doesn't matter. On the final fill, i.e. with Fernox, it doesn't matter because you'll have to vent them again after a few days.8 - bleed all rads (start downstairs, or doesn't it matter?)
Yes, but be absolutely sure that you get water from the highest rad vent first.9 - fire up the boiler, and check that the switching works correctly.
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