Replacing a Door Frame

[NewhouseOldhouse]

Hi

How hard is it to replace a door frame?

I also want the door to open outwards rather than inwards into the room, the room is not in a hall and with the door opening outward will not cause and hazzard.

Thanks

 

[foxhole]

If it’s a door lining you don’t need to change in order to change door opening direction

 

[NewhouseOldhouse]

If it’s a door lining you don’t need to change in order to change door opening direction

When I took trim of round it I notice bottom of frame is rotting so would like to replace frame.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

To install it requires a 6ft level (or a shorter level strapped to a perfectly straight 6ft piece of planed timber), a 2ft level, masonry drill (if going into masonry) with a 7mm masonry drill bit a cordless drill or screwdriver, driver bits, a drill/countersink bit (for neat holes), a decent tape measure and horseshoe packers. And that doesn't cover the tool kit to actually swing the door in the opening or lock.it out. Do you own or can you beg, borrow or steal them?

In order to make up a casing or lining kit and trim it to size you need, in addition, a hammer, a saw and a try square or framing square or combination square The hammer, in addition to a nail set (nail punch), a mitre box and saw (or a mitre saw) and a combination square are required to install the stop laths (if installing a lining) and the architraves


If you need

 

[NewhouseOldhouse]

To install it requires a 6ft level (or a shorter level strapped to a perfectly straight 6ft piece of planed timber), a 2ft level, masonry drill (if going into masonry) with a 7mm masonry drill bit a cordless drill or screwdriver, driver bits, a drill/countersink bit (for neat holes), a decent tape measure and horseshoe packers. And that doesn't cover the tool kit to actually swing the door in the opening or lock.it out. Do you own or can you beg, borrow or steal them?

In order to make up a casing or lining kit and trim it to size you need, in addition, a hammer, a saw and a try square or framing square or combination square The hammer, in addition to a nail set (nail punch), a mitre box and saw (or a mitre saw) and a combination square are required to install the stop laths (if installing a lining) and the architraves


If you need

I have all the tools as I have renovated rooms with new skirting & architraves.

have a general idea to remove old frame and new frame will go in place, understand about the frame being exact square so could have frame made up with a batton nailed across the bottom to allow me to install.

I take it the packers will allow a solid fit to walls and then drill holes wall plugs and screws with screw counter sunk.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I take it the packers will allow a solid fit to walls and then drill holes wall plugs and screws with screw counter sunk.

Yes. You won't need the plugs and masonry for the door opening, but you may need to add extra anchor points to the bottom of the existing stud wall framing into concrete or brick. If it sits on timber, then happy days, just screw it down either side of the proposed opening - but do it before you alter the studwork.

BTW, having a batten added to the frame won't guarantee keeping it square and even adding diagonal battens on the top corners won't guarantee it absolutely. Most made-up casings or linings are supplied with horns at the top (to protect the joinery during shipment - these are sawn off just prior to installation) - if you saw these off before transporting it the frame will be weaker and the joints much more likely to break in transport, even if assembled using loose tenons, such as Dominos. The other thing that happens is that such frames are often supplied slightly over length and have to be sawn to fit - this is to accommodate out of level floors, which are quite common. The reason for the levels are as follows - the 2ft (600mm) level is used to level the head of the casing the 6ft (1800m) level is used to check how plumb the jams are (in two planes) as well as checking for bowing or pin-cushioning top to bottom in the jambs. BTW this is something that absolutely cannot be done with a laser line. A possible solution to your issue may be to ask a door system company to supply a pre-hung set (a door hung on hinges and ready installed in the casing/lining - normally they don't supply the latch/lock or other hardware). You'll still need the spirit levels to install those, however.

 

[^woody^]

If the existing frame is rotting, has the cause been remedied to stop any new frame going the same way?

 

[Notch7]

I have all the tools as I have renovated rooms with new skirting & architraves.

have a general idea to remove old frame and new frame will go in place, understand about the frame being exact square so could have frame made up with a batton nailed across the bottom to allow me to install.

I take it the packers will allow a solid fit to walls and then drill holes wall plugs and screws with screw counter sunk.

heres a tip -make up the liner / frame fit the door into the line with the hinges etc in place making sure you have about a 2mm gap at the top.

take off door, put liner in place and wedge up -fit door on with 2 screws, adjust liner until door sits nice (even margin at head and down sides, nice and flush down both sides) -take out door, screw up frame and put door in, have cup of tea