Replacing wooden back door with UPVC.
- Thread starter Dankraut
- Start date
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1. Measure the existing opening from side to side in several positions through the height and take the smallest dimension, if you have some long straight edges that you can lie onto either side then take the measurements may be easier. Whilst doing this use a reliable level to check the uprights are level.
2. Measure the height at each side of the opening from the top of the frame to the underside of the sill.
3. Measure across both diagonals, these should be exactly the same and will tell you if the opening is square. You will have to take this into consideration as the new door will be square and will not fit properly otherwise. If your opening is not square then you will have to mark levels at the top and bottom of the opening and re-measure. The same would be for the uprights if they are not level. The new door will be smaller than the opening due to the opening being out of square in this case but the new frame can be packed out to suit on installation.
4. Give the dimensions to your door supplier for him to manufacture the new door. Tell him the sizes given are to include the door sill.
5. On receipt of the new door and frame check against your given dimensions, the door will usually arrive with the frame, door frame, glazed and or infill panels plus the furniture separately.
6. Take the frame and check against your opening.
7. The tools you will need will be pry bars, hammer, bolster chisel, SDS drill and 8mm x 200mm long series bits, cordless drill plus pozi-drive bits of the correct size, 8mm drill bit, stanley knife, Mastic gun, level, tape measure, Angle grinder with stone and steel cutting discs, hand saw, mallet and wood chisels and all safety equipment, goggles, gloves, dust mask and decent footwear.
8. The materials you will need will be a bag of frame packers, a pack of 8mm x 100mm fischer screws (you will need 8 of these), a good quality frame sealing mastic, decorators caulk.
9. Remove the old door from the frame.
10. Carefully cut through the old frame about the centre of each upright and using the pry bars collapse the frame and remove, other places may have to be cut for ease of removal.
11. Most wooden door frames are secured to the building using cut nails and some of them may stay in the brickwork, if so using the disc cutter with the steel disc fitted, cut the nails flush being careful not to damage the brick work (if trying to remove some cut nails from brickwork be careful because sometime they take a new shape when fitted and can crack and damage the bricks when trying to remove)
12. Clean around the frame and remove any protruding mortar using the disc grinder with the stone disc or the hammer and bolster.
13. Slide frame into the opening and ensure it is pushed up flush and level in all directions.
14. Mark 4 positions evenly onto the inside of the frame on both side where the fixings will be located.
15. Using the ordinary 8mm drill bit drill each position the frame only.
16. Using the SDS 8mm drill bit drill one of the holes through the frame and into the brickwork for at least 120mm into the brickwork. Place one of the fischer screws though the frame and into the brickwork and tighten the screw so it just grabs the frame without tightening. Ensure again that the frame is level drill another on the same side and fit the fixing as before. Do the same for the other side of the frame ensuring levels at each stage.
17. Select frame packer and slide between the wall and the frame just above each of the fixings where required and tighten the fixings.
18. Drill the remaining 4 holes into the brickwork, insert the fixings, pack where required and tighten.
19. Prior to the next operation it will be best to remove the protective plastic from the frame. Apply a mastic bead around the outside of the frame, If your application skills are limited, using masking tape, mask the frame and the wall leaving approximately a 5mm gap to apply the mastic, apply the mastic and using a wet finger go over the mastic to smooth, carefully remove the tap and re smooth using slightly less pressure than before.
20. Apply decorators caulk around the interior of the frame in a similar manor as the mastic on the outside.
21. Fit the door to the frame and test for free movement, fit the furniture and test again then close the door.
22. Remove the beading from each pane noting from where each beading came and select the glazed or blank panel for the opening. Place the unit into the door then using packers at the lower bottom and side of the unit nearest to the hinged side of the door and the upper and outer corner so as to give an imaginary brace ensuring that the packer at each position are as equal as possible. Do the same for each of any subsequent unit. By doing this it helps the door keep its shape and stops it from sagging over time. No other packing is required on the opposite 2 corners.
Re fit the beads into there correct positions.
23. Finally recheck the doors function and job is done.
2. Measure the height at each side of the opening from the top of the frame to the underside of the sill.
3. Measure across both diagonals, these should be exactly the same and will tell you if the opening is square. You will have to take this into consideration as the new door will be square and will not fit properly otherwise. If your opening is not square then you will have to mark levels at the top and bottom of the opening and re-measure. The same would be for the uprights if they are not level. The new door will be smaller than the opening due to the opening being out of square in this case but the new frame can be packed out to suit on installation.
4. Give the dimensions to your door supplier for him to manufacture the new door. Tell him the sizes given are to include the door sill.
5. On receipt of the new door and frame check against your given dimensions, the door will usually arrive with the frame, door frame, glazed and or infill panels plus the furniture separately.
6. Take the frame and check against your opening.
7. The tools you will need will be pry bars, hammer, bolster chisel, SDS drill and 8mm x 200mm long series bits, cordless drill plus pozi-drive bits of the correct size, 8mm drill bit, stanley knife, Mastic gun, level, tape measure, Angle grinder with stone and steel cutting discs, hand saw, mallet and wood chisels and all safety equipment, goggles, gloves, dust mask and decent footwear.
8. The materials you will need will be a bag of frame packers, a pack of 8mm x 100mm fischer screws (you will need 8 of these), a good quality frame sealing mastic, decorators caulk.
9. Remove the old door from the frame.
10. Carefully cut through the old frame about the centre of each upright and using the pry bars collapse the frame and remove, other places may have to be cut for ease of removal.
11. Most wooden door frames are secured to the building using cut nails and some of them may stay in the brickwork, if so using the disc cutter with the steel disc fitted, cut the nails flush being careful not to damage the brick work (if trying to remove some cut nails from brickwork be careful because sometime they take a new shape when fitted and can crack and damage the bricks when trying to remove)
12. Clean around the frame and remove any protruding mortar using the disc grinder with the stone disc or the hammer and bolster.
13. Slide frame into the opening and ensure it is pushed up flush and level in all directions.
14. Mark 4 positions evenly onto the inside of the frame on both side where the fixings will be located.
15. Using the ordinary 8mm drill bit drill each position the frame only.
16. Using the SDS 8mm drill bit drill one of the holes through the frame and into the brickwork for at least 120mm into the brickwork. Place one of the fischer screws though the frame and into the brickwork and tighten the screw so it just grabs the frame without tightening. Ensure again that the frame is level drill another on the same side and fit the fixing as before. Do the same for the other side of the frame ensuring levels at each stage.
17. Select frame packer and slide between the wall and the frame just above each of the fixings where required and tighten the fixings.
18. Drill the remaining 4 holes into the brickwork, insert the fixings, pack where required and tighten.
19. Prior to the next operation it will be best to remove the protective plastic from the frame. Apply a mastic bead around the outside of the frame, If your application skills are limited, using masking tape, mask the frame and the wall leaving approximately a 5mm gap to apply the mastic, apply the mastic and using a wet finger go over the mastic to smooth, carefully remove the tap and re smooth using slightly less pressure than before.
20. Apply decorators caulk around the interior of the frame in a similar manor as the mastic on the outside.
21. Fit the door to the frame and test for free movement, fit the furniture and test again then close the door.
22. Remove the beading from each pane noting from where each beading came and select the glazed or blank panel for the opening. Place the unit into the door then using packers at the lower bottom and side of the unit nearest to the hinged side of the door and the upper and outer corner so as to give an imaginary brace ensuring that the packer at each position are as equal as possible. Do the same for each of any subsequent unit. By doing this it helps the door keep its shape and stops it from sagging over time. No other packing is required on the opposite 2 corners.
Re fit the beads into there correct positions.
23. Finally recheck the doors function and job is done.
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