Rest Universal Beam on another

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Good evening,

I did train as a bricklayer years ago, and have worked on many sites and built many extensions, however I do not recall building anything like the extension I'm planning. I should point out it has been 20 years since I worked in the building trade, and since then I have retrained as an electrical and software engineer. This new knowledge seems to have pushed most of the old stuff out! o_O

Later this year I am looking to start an extension to an existing town house. Currently the house is a typical 2 up 2 down style, with the kitchen protruding from the rear and the bathroom above the kitchen. So essentially the aerial view shows the house to be almost in an L shape.

I am looking to make the house square with a two storey extension next to the kitchen, I then want to make the downstairs open plan.
The walls I will need to demolish to create the open plan dining and kitchen area are;
a) the current dining room wall which is half internal and half external, and is between the dining room and the kitchen and outside.
b) the external kitchen wall which returns mid way from the "a".

I plan two supporting pillars inside where the current wall "a" is and place a Universal Beam on to this. There will be two further UBs going across from the old remaining kitchen wall to the newly built wall.

After this I am a little confused, I want to place another UB at right angles, along the middle and on top of these three, these will support what was the old external bathroom wall above.
I can find nowhere on the internet about resting one UB on top of another.
Every place I look, it appears the UBs needs to be specially made and bolted to each other, some places even mention welding UBs together.

I'm not looking for answers about the strengths of the UB etc, I plan to get a Structural Engineer to calculate these, but is there some part of building regs that I'm not aware of about placing a UB on another?

One final thing I should point out, is that ALL UBs will have the required 150mm either end.
I have uploaded a basic drawing which will hopefully show what I am trying to explain.
On the drawing, black is existing, orange new build, blue UBs, with the darker blue being the one I want to place on top of the other three.
Downstairs.jpg
 
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First of all, why have 3 beams going across, unless I've read it wrong? - over-engineered and completely unnecessary.

Assuming it's a conventional 2-up and 2-down with average spans and 9" brick walls, best and simplest way is this;

One 203 x 203 x 60 main beam across the back, and two 152 x 152 x 30s under the outrigger wall spanning into the main beam.

You don't need to sit the incoming beams on top of the main beam.

Technically, you are supposed to connect an incoming beam to the web of a main beam via welded end-plates and bolts, but this is tricky with two incoming beams side-by-side.

Instead, just sit the incoming beams on to the bottom flange of the main beam - you will have at least 3.5" of bearing.
You don't even need to weld them - they won't be going anywhere.
 
First of all, why have 3 beams going across, unless I've read it wrong? - over-engineered and completely unnecessary.

Sorry should have been more specific about the other two UBs. These are mainly for aesthetic reasons.
When the new kitchen is fitted it will have a bit of a minimalist industrial look to it, the appearance of these two beams will be reflected in the decor and design of the rest of the kitchen

Thanks for your advice Tony and Woody.

When I finally start the project, I will probably be posting it on here for people to follow.
 
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One 203 x 203 x 60 main beam across the back, and two 152 x 152 x 30s under the outrigger wall spanning into the main beam.

Tony,
why do you recommend two smaller UBs rather than a single larger one?
Is it so that they fit in to the gap between the flanges?
 
One 203 x 203 x 60 main beam across the back, and two 152 x 152 x 30s under the outrigger wall spanning into the main beam.

Tony,
why do you recommend two smaller UBs rather than a single larger one?
Is it so that they fit in to the gap between the flanges?

Yes.

If you used something like 7"x4"s, or 8"x4"s, or even an 8"x8", they would not fit in the gap of the main beam.
You then have to have them notched, and welded end plates with bolts, which is a fabrication cost.

Just sitting the 6" beams on the bottom flange of the main beam avoids fabrication costs altogether.

(Incidentally, the 6"x6"s are not UBs, they are UCs (universal columns, = 'H'-shaped). You would need those
because the only UB which would fit (ie a 152x89) would probably be too light for the span/load you will have).
 
PS just noticed your other post regarding the aesthetic purpose of the crossbeams.
These cannot be structural if left exposed because of fire regs. If you want this 'look', they could be added
by being screwed to the underside of the floor.
 

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