Ride on mower maintenance

[jblessing]

I would really like to do more of my own maintenance on my ride on mower (Mountfield 1430). The user manual is rubbish - anything more complicated than filling it with fuel is "refer to dealer". So, some questions:

1. Is there a tech manual I can get hold of somewhere?
2. Any tips on raising the mower up so I can get under it safely? I have considered buying an engine hoist and just pulling the front up with it.
3. Is it worth waxoyling (or similar) the mower deck?
4. Any tips on sharpening/balancing the blades?

TIA

 

[Burnerman]

A good machine these - but they could do with a few grease nipples!
Here's a few points.
Briggs engine......change the oil regularly and clear the air filter sock. Give it a new plug every year. If there's a lot of loose grass kicking around, remove the cover over the flywheel and clear grass from around the cylinder fins. Check the fuel hoses for splits - pop a filter on from time to time.
Chassis - if there's any grease nipples (I can think of 3), treat them. For the front beam axle, squirt some spray grease around the pivot bolt. It looks a mess but keeps things sweet!
Any linkages or swivels - do the same with the aerosol grease.
Tyres - front 18 psi, rear 22 (typically). The front wheels may have grease nipples, or maybe not. Take the rear wheels off from time to time and grease the shaft - don't lose the key!
Steering pinion and quadrant - loads of grease on these.
Taking the deck off for cleaning and painting will greatly enhance its life - time really well spent.
Use genuine Mountfield belts if you need replacements. Blade bosses - no grease points but they can be repaired.
Sharpen the blades with an angle grinder - they don't need to be like a razor. If they are bent and out of balance, fit new ones (£22 each).
Any other queries, I'll try to help!
John

 

[skotl]

Is your manual the same as the 1435/1436 manuals on here?

http://www.mountfieldlawnmowers.co.uk/manuals

They have a little maintenance info, such as tolerances, which may be more than your manual has?

Edit: Oops - posted at the same time as Burnerman's waaaaaaaaay more helpful post

 

[jblessing]

Taking the deck off for cleaning and painting will greatly enhance its life - time really well spent.

Any chance you could give me a rough guide on how to remove the deck?

 

[Burnerman]

Sure, but I am working from memory, so bear with me.....
You have to slacken the posts that prevent the cutting belt from jumping off the pulleys - engine and deck. Just slacken them - no need to remove.
The deck is held on by 2 arms at the front, (10mm nuts) and the lifting / levelling arm at the back. Only remove the lower nut here. Don't pull any bolt studs out until the deck raising and lowering gear (cable or rod) is disconnected!
If there is nothing left in the way, pop the pins out and the (heavy) deck will come down - you can extract it from one side. If yours has a central grass discharge trunk it can be a bit of a pain getting it back!
As far as I can remember, that about it.......I sometimes jack the machine up with a trolley jack under the front axle or frame.
With the deck off, do inspect the belt that goes from the engine to the transmission.
John

 

[HERTS P&D]

John, you are the 'sites' lawnmower man.


Andy

 

[Burnerman]

Cheers Andy!
How sad is that
John

 

[HERTS P&D]

Don't worry John, I could be the sites '$hit man'

Andy

 

[rogerf]

Hi all.
I have a Mountfield 827H.
The deck drive belt will not stay on the deck pulley as soon as it is under load. Any ideas or suggestions please.
Roger

 

[Lower]

Start with a new belt. It may have stretched or just be very worn.

 

[Burnerman]

Make sure the belt gets nice and tight when the cutters are engaged......the tensioner needs to do its work here and it’s likely to be heavily spring loaded.
John

 

[cbh@chrisbillingtonh]

Afternoon All,
OK, I'm new to this so I'll hope I'm on the right forum and keep it as brief as possible. My wife bought a s/h Mountfield 1740H Hydro ride on.
Worked fine but needed the deck welding. That done, I needed to replace a bolt holding one of the blades. Left hand/reverse, no problem online. Anyway. whilst waiting for the bolt I thought it a good idea to reattach the deck and refit the blade by jacking it up.
Jacked it up too far using a forest jack and put it on its side. No problem, I'll roll it back. Seat flipped up and the battery fell out. No problem, strong wiring. Stuck it back in, righted the mower, jacked it up differently and attached the blade ... wouldn't start!
This is where I need help please (as if I didn't before ).
Ran a multi-meter all over it. Bridged the solenoid, turned the motor but nothing else. No spark at the plug, though plenty of fuel. Tested the ignition switch and it seems OK, can't be sure as it looks aftermarket and has no indicator of which terminal is which so I'm guessing. The batter light etc. comes on with the first turn, nothing is happening when I give it the second turn on the spring. Disconnected the kill wire from the bottom of the mag, bridged the solenoid and it started. Checked that the blades engaged on the switch, they did. Foot on the forward metal ... nothing, reverse ... nothing.
Pulled the plug cap off to stop it and got a beer out of the fridge muttering and frowning.
So, I'm wondering if the hydro has something that prevents it from engaging when the kill wire is off. Could the ignition switch be dodgy?
I'm new to ride on mowers and I know I'm likely missing something very simple but what it is, I don't know. Any suggestions will be gratefully received ... and if the p155 taking is of high enough calibre there'll be a prize .
Many thanks.
Chris

 

[Burnerman]

These machines bristle with safety interlock switches, some necessary, others less so.
These switches can either prevent the engine from spinning over to start, or will cut the engine dead if it’s already running.
The usual culprit is under the seat....check that the peg operating it is actually closing it, or even disconnect it altogether.
John

 

[Burnerman]

I should also have said, there could be one, two or three red wires coming from the battery positive terminal.....as the battery has had a tug, make sure there aren’t any ring terminals empty, or stray red wires !
John

 

[lostinthelight]

Not sure if its possible to get an airlock in the hydro with being tipped up.
Hydros usually have a lever that sets it in freewheel mode, has that moved.