Roofing and sofit question

Roofer said:
The render will need to be hacked off to get the lead flashing in and then re-rendered with a drip bead, difficult to make it look good and to not spoil the new roofing.

Maybe just go for a straight flashing, cut using a grinder/power saw and fill the gap with suitable colour/type mastic?

May be neater than hacking off render and patching back in?

Just an altenative, roof looks good though!
 
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therealhandyman

Funny you should say that :)

A friend of mine has an open log burning fire, needless to say he was round my house collecting all the off cuts :D But i have to say, i worked the wood out pretty accurately.

I think all the off cuts are just a few inches long. I only cocked 1 piece of wood up that i managed to use for the soffit returns.
 
therealhandyman

Funny you should say that :)

A friend of mine has an open log burning fire, needless to say he was round my house collecting all the off cuts :D But i have to say, i worked the wood out pretty accurately.

I think all the off cuts are just a few inches long. I only cocked 1 piece of wood up that i managed to use for the soffit returns.

rangersman

Thanks for the advice... was thinking along those lines.... went to price lead up today :eek: i thought it was hard to even give the stuff away in todays HSE state but what a shock.... £££££ need another bank loan
 
Price of lead`s just gone up :cry: I was told in the merchants just the other day.......and there`s more to it than just laying it over valleys etc :cry: It` s all to do with limiting the size of the pieces and making appropriate expansion joints..Fixings etc.You should be able to find a free booklet @ the supplying plumber`s merchants.........Yes, I`ve done it in the past, but usually check with a textbook I` ve got buried somewhere here @ home, :rolleyes: ...Fair point about not using pre formed GRP.but how about Laid -in Situ.GRP :idea: I was on a job once @ a mansion, where they lined the stone gutters of a 30 yards long conservatory with GRP :eek: SsssTTan, the roofer made me laugh :oops: BUT ..It`s difficult to know someones intentions here in cyberspace because we can`t see their expressions..........I`m allways taking the **** on DIYnot, but I try to balance with advice, sometimes in the same post :LOL: Carry on SStammering .Stan ;) Ps.I`m a plumber by trade, that`s why I did the leadwork occasionaly
 
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Is it not possible to have a smaller window then do away with the valley pitch? Be a lot easier if you can. I'm guessing the window is for the staircase area?

Ps: you're doing a good job there!
 
Nige F & Masona,

Cheers guys. I was going to do away with the window altogether a fit one of those light tunnel things, but decided that would cause even more work. I am now getting tired and want to see the back of this project so i can start the conservatory :eek: :eek: :D

Stammering stan, I have fitted the soffit returns today and squared up the hips so they no longer stick below the soffit line. I was planning to do this before you mentioned it :) just getting time. Did you have a good time the other night ?

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/soffit.jpg

I am still waiting for the discission from the planning department with regards a change of tile type. Once they agree i want to get it tiled. It has been stood for 18 weeks now with no roof on :cry: cant wait to felt and baton it... That is my next head ache trying to work out the baton spacing.. i have looked at the marley web site and read about head lap. I understand that part but how do you work out where to secure batons so the tiles all have an equal head lap. Also when cutting for the lead, am i better cutting with a slight upward angle so if water does get in it cant get under lead ? Does that make sense or have i lost you all now :confused:

I mentioned the other day about an housing development where the roofers had obviously c0cked up big time and thought "sod it" I will take a piccie tomorrow as it is near my works and post it... this picture will explain what i am trying to avoid once i start tiling..

With regards the soffits and facias, am i best plying first or simply just use the thicker soffits ?

Cheers guys.
 
Hi Mick, have you built thetops of the hip and vally beams into the walls of the existing house or sat them ontop of a plate (i guess a bolted plate would be easier)

if you've got any more pics id like a look
 
Fix first batten so tha tile will overhang fascia by 50mm, imagine top batten fixed approx 50 mm down from ridge or brickwork and measure distance from top to top of battens. Divide measurement by maximum gauge of roof tile (approx 345mm) and say you get answer of 7.44 round this up to 8 and divide measurement by 8, the answer will be the gauge of each course.

Lead flashings must not be longer than 1.5 metres and should be lapped by no less than 150mm.
 
Bob

I cut into the cavity and sat the hips on the bricks. In all honesty, there is no need to as the rafters support the hips once they are all fitted. I sussed this whem i removed a piece of 3x2 i had holding the ridge up while i got the levels.

I beleive if you simply butt against a wall it is called a floating ridge ? But you do need to strap it...

I will post whatever pictures you need help with ? Let me know and i will take piccies of any particular bit you need info on.

Roofer,

When you say flashing shouldnt be no than 1.5 meter ? do you mean the width in the valley ? Or have i lost the plot here :confused:

Regards,

Mick
 
No piece of lead should be longer than 1.5 metres. The girth of lead in the valleys should be about 450mm and the flashings about 300mm.
 
Roofer,

Really ? you mean the valley lead lets say is 3 meters should be made from 2 pieces ? and lets say the flashing down the roof is 4 meters it should be made from 3 pieces ? I wondered why it was only sold in short legnths...

Bob here is a closer picture of where hips go into wall

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/hips.jpg
 
Yep, that's right.

Lead in generally sold in 6metre rolls (sometimes 3m)

A good price would be £1.50 a kilo = £54 for 6m Code 4 300mm, £81 for 6m Code 4 450mm
 
So is the 1.5 meter rule a thing for building regs ? Or just something that is industry standard?

Why sell it in long rolls if it cant be used that way ? I was hoping to do the valley in one long length. Do i need code 4 ? snt that the thick stuff. I was going to get the thiner one or wouldnt that meet building requirements.

Cheers
 
Lead has a high coefficient of expansion, if you lay it in long lengths it would soon crack and fail.

Code 4 isn't thick, Code 5,6 or 7 is. If you try to use Code 3 it will fail in no time, Code 3 is for soakers only (which aren't exposed to direct sunlight)
 
Cheers Roofer.

i understand now. BUT how come when i look at valleys, they all seem to be laid in 1 length ?

Wait till you see the picture i will post tomorrow evening... goes against everything logical in roofing :) and these are BRAND NEW houses. :LOL:
 

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