Running power to shed

[Bobby10]

Hi folks, thinking about running power out to my shed and was wondering what would be the best thing to do?.

I was going to spur off a socket on the downstairs ring. Then run a cable out the back of the house buried under the ground to the shed.

Would probably be 2.5mm armoured cable. However I think i might need over 10M and it aint the cheapest.

Then Into the shed I was going to put a FCU then run to a double socket. I was wanting a light in there too though?. Would it be possible to run a 2.5mm cable from the double socket to another FCU with a 3A or 5A fuse then 1mm to a light?.

The downstairs ring is protected by a 32A rcbo. There is 7 double sockets on the downstair ring. So if I spur from this would be 8 double sockets and a light.

I was wondering, I have some spare 2.5mm twin and earth. It would be enough to run to the shed. I also have a load of metal conduit from the lighting circuit.(old 1950s property) Would it be possible to run the 2.5mm twin and earth in the metal conduit buried under the ground?.

Nothing major would be plugged in at the shed. Some led lighting and perhaps a radio.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Ideally duct and SWA cable, T&E not really suitable for external use, your conduit likely to be ferrous and corrosive.

 

[securespark]

The metal conduit would have to be connected to earth. By the sound of it you are looking to reuse some old 1950's (drawn?) conduit with screwed fittings which is not galvanised or watertight or reliably connectable to ground and therefore not suitable for subterranean use.

Plastic conduit is no good underground for T&E cables.

What is the maximum design current on the proposed circuit?
Think about what may be added or how things could be adapted in the future.

If you are sure the load will not exceed 13A, then best to fit a DP 13A switched FCU between the house circuit and the SWA. In case of fault, you can cut off the external wiring from the internal stuff.

If the load exceeds 13A, wire a dedicated circuit back to the board. It still makes sense to fit an appropriately rated DP switch so you can isolate the external wiring from the board in the event of a fault.

Where you bring the SWA into the shed, put another switched FCU conveniently mounted for a light switch, with the load feeding the light point. Continue the circuit out of the feed terminals to the socket(s).

 

[Bobby10]

Hi, finally getting around to putting the power out to my shed.

I was wondering if 2.5mm or 4mm should be used?.

As above I was planning on a double socket and a light or 2.

I would have perhaps a radio plugged in, led lights for the decking plugged in.

So from the replies so far I was planning the following.

Taking a spur off the downstair ring. It is on a 32a RCBO at the consumer unit.

I was going to run 2.5mm T&E from the socket on the ring into a 13A FCU.

Then run either 2.5mm or 4mm SWA from the FCU to the shed.

Then into another 13A FCU inside the shed.

Then take 2.5mm T&E from the FCU to double socket and 1mm T&E from the FCU to light?.

Or would I need to run 2.5mm T&E from the 13A FCU into a 3A FCU then run 1mm from the 3A FCU to the lights?.

There will be no heavy duty stuff in the shed.

I could run a seperate feed from the consumer unit to the shed but it would be a lot more ackward and cost more and really its just to power a light and a radio.

I would need to buy longer cable and fuse for the consumer unit.

I have a seperate control unit with a 63A switch which I could use but I thought this would be a bit more than was needed in this case.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I was wondering if 2.5mm or 4mm should be used?.

• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcbtocable
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.11.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20070327014113/http://www.kevinboone.com/cableselection_web.pdf
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html <- Specify 2-core cable and PVC, even if that is not what you are using or it will make invalid assumptions.
  

Then into another 13A FCU inside the shed.

What's the point of that?

Or would I need to run 2.5mm T&E from the 13A FCU into a 3A FCU then run 1mm from the 3A FCU to the lights?.

What you need to do is to spend some time actually learning about all of the things you need to know, rather than thinking you can do it just by asking the questions which happen to occur to you. Or get an electrician.

I can't help noticing, for example, that you've not mentioned your supply type and whether you have any extraneous-conductive-parts in the shed. Or testing.

Is that because you know all about those issues, or because you don't even know they exist?

Unlike, say, DIY painting and decorating, where it doesn't really matter if you don't do a professional job, sub-standard electrical work is just not an option.

 

[Bobby10]

Good stuff.

I rewired my house, fitted consumer unit.

Dont have hundreds of pounds spare to employ a spark.

Saved 2500 doing rewire which bought kitchen and bathroom.

Reason for asking is just to get opinions on what others would do.

Reason for fcu in house is because I was going to use a junction on the ring to the fcu in 2.5 t&e. Then wire the 2.5mm swa into the fcu as it will need glanding.

Then run it out to the shed into another fcu so it can be properly terminated and I can switch all power to the shed off at the shed and in the house.

Then run to 1 double socket and 1 light switch.

Or I could run direct from the consumer unit to the shed but would cost more.

My neighbours set up looks good and cheap. An extension lead from bedroom to shed.

I do diy but I want to make a proper job. So I try to explain my plan and then see if it is ok.

I saved thousands fitting kitchen myself and bathroom myself. Also joinery work like built in wardrobes. Partition walls. Door frames and doors. Staircase spindles. Coving. Skirting. All in all saved 8000 quid by doing things myself with advice or resding up or watching videos.

I was quoted 700 quid to fit a loft ladder. Bought high quality one for 120 quid and fitted it in about 1 hour. Resize opening and re baton. There is 580 quid saved.

I would like to get trades in but they are just far too expensive here. I always question why its so much.

Carpets got online for 500 quid whole house 40oz wool mix. Local shop 1400 fitted. Wanted 9 quid a metre for 8mm underlay. Got 12mm stuff for 2 quid a metre online. Saved a fortune. Fitted myself. Took bit longer but just as good.

Diy tend to take time and do things as best they can to make it neat and tidy. Most trades here just slap dash and make an a**e of it. Few decent boys but you pay through the nose for quality. I managed to up spec everything in the house from money I saved. Better appliances. Better kitchen. Better bathroom suite. Better consumer unit and fittings.

Sorry to rant on but hope you see my point of view. I am no sparky but I am pretty well educated and can do enough research to get the gist of it. I did higher physics and electronic construction.

I will always try things or work them out first over getting a tradesman. Same with my car will do all servicing myself rather than pay 80 quid an hour for something I can do myself.

 

[DaftPunk]

Why are you bothering asking? You clearly know much more than anyone here and will do a much better job.

 

[bernardgreen]

I rewired my house, fitted consumer unit

And of course you tested the installation ?

Getting the gist of something may get the job done in a neat and tidy way but it may not be as safe as it should be.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I rewired my house, fitted consumer unit.

Well then - prove all the doubters here wrong by scanning and posting your test schedules and results, evidence that your test equipment was working properly, and a reasonable explanation showing how you were justified in signing an EIC.

Or pretend that none of that matters, thus proving that you are ignorant and incompetent.

As an aside, if you did that in the last 10 years did you apply for Building Regulations approval before you started, and get a completion certificate at the end? If not what do you plan to do if ever you sell the house?

Then run it out to the shed into another fcu so it can be properly terminated and I can switch all power to the shed off at the shed and in the house.

A switch would do that.

Then run to 1 double socket and 1 light switch.

Good job you don't want to run anything significant from the socket.

Or I could run direct from the consumer unit to the shed but would cost more.

Better jobs often do.

My neighbours set up looks good and cheap. An extension lead from bedroom to shed.

Cheap yes, but good? No way. It's sh*te.

I do diy but I want to make a proper job. So I try to explain my plan and then see if it is ok.

Can you explain about this:

I can't help noticing, for example, that you've not mentioned your supply type and whether you have any extraneous-conductive-parts in the shed. Or testing.

Is that because you know all about those issues, or because you don't even know they exist?

Carpets got online for 500 quid whole house 40oz wool mix. Local shop 1400 fitted. Wanted 9 quid a metre for 8mm underlay. Got 12mm stuff for 2 quid a metre online. Saved a fortune. Fitted myself. Took bit longer but just as good.

Apart from possibly on the stairs, can people die from dodgy carpets?

But if we accept that your carpet fitting and joinery etc are just as good as a professional's, the same cannot be said about your rewiring unless you can show that you know and understand all of the applicable wiring regulations, and understand and are capable of testing your work.

I am no sparky but I am pretty well educated and can do enough research to get the gist of it.

That's insufficient.

I did higher physics and electronic construction.

Which clearly did not equip you to do even basic LV electrical installation work.


You are deluded.

 

[Bobby10]

Never said knew better than anyone.

The remark about neighbours extension lead was sarcasm.

My set up was tested by sse. Who fitted my digi meter to my wiring.

Definitely better with the rewire than what was in before. Rubber wire. Ancient fuse box. No earth bonding. Earths were not even connected in sockets.

The electrician who installed the shower was a professional tradesman but it was not installed properly.

Like I said before. You get good tradesmen and cowboys. Also never once paid what I have been quoted. Always ends up more.

Wouldn't go around insulting people thats not very nice. Everyone has their own opinion. I asked for advice for adding power to shed not to be insulted.

Alot of people would just do it themselves without asking advice at all. For example there are a lot of homes round here where power runs out to garage or shed and they did it themselves. T&e in pvc conduit or extension cables plugged in permanently.

I thought I would ask to try and do a proper job. Will know not to bother in future.

Perhaps will just buy a battery powered bluetooth speaker and a touch light battery operated. Seen as I am ignorant incompetent and deluded.

If you are not willing to help or offer relevant advice to the question at hand please don't bother saying anything. I have seen you on a number of different forums and you always come away with the same part p this building control that. Whats the supply type. You never give any advice just criticism. Do you even get any work as you always seem to be on every electrician forum going. Wonder you have anytime left to do any practical work or read up anything.

I have seen many a house online with dodgy electrics. Kitchen fitters. Bathroom fitters. Garage installers install well dodgy set ups. There will always be diyers and dodgy cowboy tradesmen. Most of these forums are diy oriented are they not?

Will just use extension as will only be for a bbq or two and not a permanent fixture. Thanks for nothing.

 

[bernardgreen]

Hi folks, thinking about running power out to my shed and was wondering what would be the best thing to do?.

I also have a load of metal conduit from the lighting circuit.(old 1950s property) Would it be possible to run the 2.5mm twin and earth in the metal conduit buried under the ground?.

Did you really think that was an option ? Are there any similar "options" in the rewire of your house ?

I rewired my house, fitted consumer unit.

If you have the knowledge to have done that in a way that created a safe installation then you would have the knowledge to design and install a supply to an outbuilding.

My set up was tested by sse. Who fitted my digi meter to my wiring.

Tested or Tested and Inspected, the meter installer saw how the cables were installed ?

Nothing major would be plugged in at the shed. Some led lighting and perhaps a radio.

Faults that cause high fault currents to flow do not get plugged in, the protection method and cable sizes have to take account of faults, in fact that is the main reason for having the protective devices.

The advice and critique given to you is sound.