Sanity check for a three way diverter valve replacement

[Ziderman]

Always found this site really useful and appreciate the help that has been offered in the past. I'd like to ask a question which I can't find an answer too.

My rads are only warming up when the hot water is on or when I manually push the lever into the on position on the diverter valve. I've taken the plunge and bought a new on and wanted to check I have my theory right.

The valve sits above the pump which has an isolating valve between them and either side of the valve go off to the boiler or the rads.

If I turn off the isolating valve above the pump will I be able to remove/replace the diverter valve without having to drain down the system?

Thanks in advance

 

[macfudd]

No,it`ll need a full drain down or a pipe freeze kit.

The valve you mention is for replacing the pump,there should be one on the other side of it.

 

[Ziderman]

Thats a shame.

Is it worth me trying to replace just the motor rather than the whole valve mechanism then? cause I'm sure I can do that without getting wet!

Cheers

 

[Ziderman]

Sorry I forgot to say thanks for the prompt response.

I also thought I ought to give you a bit more info.

The pump and diverter valve are upstairs and both sit higher then the tops of the radiators and the pipe that goes into the hot water tank to heat it. Would that make any difference. When I replaced the pump last month and the valves either side I only drained the expansion tank in the loft and I seemed to get away with that.

 

[mogget]

As long as you can get the water level below the area to be worked on, a partial drain down should be ok.

It would be worth considering whether your system has enough inhibitor in it - if you don't know, add a bottle when refilling.

 

[Ziderman]

Thats much better news.

Thanks again

 

[macfudd]

Is it worth me trying to replace just the motor rather than the whole valve mechanism then? cause I'm sure I can do that without getting wet!

Indeed,personally I would always try replacing the motor 1st.If the manual lever moves freely,then it may just be the motor.Remember to turn off the power at the main supply for C/H as these valves often have a permanent live.

I could only go on the information supplied(therefore suggested a full drain),but as mogget said as long as it`s drained to below the working level you should be ok,if you have to change the complete valve that is.

 

[Agile]

If its a later Honeywell then you can just replace the head without draining.

Unfortunately you have told us little about your system and nothing about your boiler.

Tony