Sealed units in wooden frames.

[MartinU]

I am about to replace a load of sealed units in wooden frames and have had conflicting advice.

The original ones are in a casement fitting with wooden beading on the outside. They were puttied in and then the beading was fitted.

I understood that the better method was to seal the units in place with silicone sealant as this will provide a soft cussion and protect the units, extending their life.

However I'f seen some recomendations about using glazing pads and/or double sided foam.

Can anyone advise the best route??

Many thanks

Martin

 

[crank39]

Dont use putty as the linseed oil attacks the hotmelt/polysulphide seal and they'll steam up in no time, as for the silicone/double sided tape then i have used both systems and found both the be as good as each other.

What conflicting reports have you had?

 

[mikely]

I have used glazing tape successfully. I used 12mm x 2mm security glazing tape from Reddiseals http://www.reddiseals.com/acatalog/glazing_tapes_security_glazing.html

The original sealed units were 4/6/4 glass puttied into softwood stained frames. I fitted 4/8/4 units using the 2mm tape. I found the best method is to apply the tape to the glazed unit on both sides, then fit to the prepared frame using spacers to set the unit on. The big job of course is removing all the old putty!

I have not tried the silicone sealant method and imagine it would take some practice to get a neat result. I think the argument for using dry glazing tape is that it allows the edge of the glazed unit to be ventilated. This can be aided by cutting vent slots in the lower edge of the bottom bead.