Self propelled cable replacement

[ipbr21054]

It doesn’t rain it pours.

Cutting grass today & the self propelled drive cable snapped.

Popped into bike shop & purchased brake cable which has a nipple one end.
This I hope will get me by until the correct items arrives.

I present I don’t see the connection of the gearbox end BUT my concern is the fitting.

Quickly looking on eBay I see cables with springs ?

Is this likely to have fallen off when it snapped thus being on the customers lawn ?

If not is the cable just wound around a coil thus the nipple part now being trapped inside to then use the spring as a return ?

 

[Burnerman]

Your picture shows the common arrangement for the cable connection to the gearbox, this gives a gentle engagement of the gearbox dogs and a return spring assistance at the same time - although the gearbox lever does have its own small spring. The cable nipple slides within the coil spring and adjustment is either at the handlebar end or on the cable itself. Always best to use the makers cable, I find!
John

 

[ipbr21054]

Yes
Now looking to order one up.
Ive felt in the back of the gearbox a lever which has a cut out in it so looks like the spring hooks over it.
Some other cables for the same mower have nipples but the set up I’ve got won’t accept them.

So it seems the cable I show with the spring on the end is the one I need.

Cable adjustment is up by the throttle lever.

 

[Burnerman]

Yes, that's the one. There will also be a clip or some sort of locator on the gearbox to hold the cable outer......here's hoping its still there!
John

 

[ipbr21054]

I cant quite see let alone get my hand i there to unclip the cable ready for when the new one arrives.

Please see attached photo,it feels this is connected to the gearbox which at present only rotates a bit.
I need better access to the gearbox to unclip the cable.

I dont see another plastic cover etc other than the drive belt cover ive removed so if i undo this nut that is shown in the photo will it allow the gearbox to rotate more given me better access to unclip the bacle.

Champion R484SP

Thanks

 

[Burnerman]

That's the gearbox tensioner - or rather it keeps the drive belt in tension.
I would imagine there would be access under the deck via some sort of plastic cover, but you may have to take the blade off to remove it......only tip the machine back on its handles, not the side.
If all else fails and you just can't see, I find the best thing to do is to drain off the fuel and oil,and invert the machine completely which is a monumental bore.
John

 

[ipbr21054]

So ive undone the belt tension,belt was taken off anyway but with it slack ive got it off.
Now awaiting new cable to arrive.

Thanks

 

[ipbr21054]

I assume the drive belt is only there to drive the rear wheels.
So in that case I can use the mower tomorrow but just have to push it ?

If that’s correct should I do that belt adjuster nut up as far as it goes to stop the gearbox flapping around.

 

[Burnerman]

Yes that should be fine, if you find can push the machine with no resistance. The pins located within the small gear wheel should disengage and make freewheeling possible.
John

 

[ipbr21054]

Thanks will co check

 

[Burnerman]

Its a good move if you are in to mower maintenance to remove the small drive cog and clear out rust, debris and solidified grease from the mechanism - no one really bothers.
Bit of a caution though, some machines have machined pegs that must be replaced in the same orientation as they came out - or the drive mode goes crackers!
John

 

[ipbr21054]

Ok one to think about thanks

 

[ipbr21054]

Cable has now arrived & ive just fitted it.
Whats the correct way to adjust it.

I ask as when i grab the handle i thought it kind of lunged forward etc.
Ive had the adjustment so the 2 nuts are at one enf of the threaded shaft then the other end.
Still kind of lunges or should i say rear wheels spin a bit / judder

The mower ticks over fine so the self propell system is inoperative until i grab the bar then off she goes

 

[Burnerman]

You'll appreciate that the handlebar movement is pretty big, yet the lever on the gearbox only moves through a short arc.
For adjustment there should be enough slack so that the handlebar can be moved say an inch before engagement.....this ensures that there is free play at the other end.
Similarly with the handlebar lever fully engaged the gearbox lever should be fully engaged too - but not so much as to make the cable like a guitar spring although the sprung end of the cable should ensure no damage is done.
You are now experiencing the mower with a new cable whereas the original would have been stiffer - before it snapped so a sharper drive engagement is usual. The drive is engaged by dog gears rather than a clutch so it's not particularly refined!
John