Sinking sockets into lathe + plaster walls.

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but then again, with them having sockets put in, surely they're expecting a bit of damage?
No guarantee - someone posted here once with a story of how a customer hadn't expected any cables to be needed for new sockets.

They only asked for sockets to be fitted, the electrician was at fault for assuming the sockets were to be functional. :LOL:

As in a show home built for the Ideal Home exhibition some years ago, none of the sockets were connected as discovered when sales staff plugged in their equipment.
 
but then again, with them having sockets put in, surely they're expecting a bit of damage?
No guarantee - someone posted here once with a story of how a customer hadn't expected any cables to be needed for new sockets.

They only asked for sockets to be fitted, the electrician was at fault for assuming the sockets were to be functional. :LOL:

As in a show home built for the Ideal Home exhibition some years ago, none of the sockets were connected as discovered when sales staff plugged in their equipment.

REALLY? Can anyone turely be that naive? Wireless power source? :D
 
it's do-able, just need a microwave trasmitter and a loop..

what do you think radiowaves are?
 
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I've found a junior hacksaw blade does ok at cutting laths without disturbing the plaster too much
 
I do mine the same way as Securespark and find that method works well and doesn't take too much effort.
 
I like the idea of a 10km² antenna generating 750MW from a solar power station satelite.. beamed back to earth via microwaves..

if the roof of everyones house was an antenna, would that be enough to power their own house?
 
What I do for a socket in a plaster board wall as well as lath and plaster is to cut the hole for the socket out. I find that a the hacksaws which have a free end make very clean cut, If I drill some starter holes in the corner.

What I then do is measure the depth to the back wall of the hole. Usually I use a 35mm back box, and work out what depth of wood I need to stick to the back wall to bring the back box flush. After planing a bit of wood to the right depth and cutting to an appropriate size that I can slip it through the hole, I apply liberal amounts of "No More Nails" or similar product and stick it to the plasterboard on the back. Once that has dried you can then screw the back box to the wood and fill the small gap around it with more "No More Nails" for extra strength. The combination of the wood spreading the load to a greater area, and the support of the plasterboard at the front in a tight fitting hole gives it more than enough strength.

I devised this technique for my sisters flat about six years ago as all the plastic dry lining boxes where all breaking in a three year old flat. Personally I don't think plastic dry lining boxes are up to being used for double sockets where things are being inserted and removed on a regular basis. Then again I am from the, if it is not metal it ain't proper school.

They have all been absolutely fine since.
 

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