Socket inside kitchen cupboard

[CX]

What is the most appropriate option when a socket is required inside a kitchen cupboard, e.g. for supplying a dishwasher or fridge?

1. Fitting a dry-lining box to the back of the cupboard (8mm thick backs) seems the neatest option. Is this acceptable?
2. Cut a hole through the back of the cupboard, and fit a surface-mount box to the wall behind. This seems like the most secure option, and could probably be just as neat with careful cutting..
3. Or fit a surface-mount box to the inside of the cupboard (and then, would it be located on the back, or on one side?).

As for the appliances themselves (undercounter, fully integrated) - these come complete with fitted plugs. Should small holes be drilled, the wires fed through and new plugs fitted; or should large cut-outs be made to feed the plug through intact?

 

[ricicle]

If you have to fit one in there then it's generally considered better to fit it to the more solid sides of the unit, but you must take into consideration the likelihood of damage from items being put in there.
When I have had to fit them I put them near the front for easier access and so they can be seen. I use some self-adhesive trunking to bring the cables from the back if necessary.

 

[bernardgreen]

Option 2

Other wise there would be cables from wall to the cabinet that could get damage by items stored in the cupboard. Removing the cupboard would require the electrics to be turned off.

 

[ricicle]

Removing the cupboard would require the electrics to be turned off.

How often is that likely to happen ?

 

[bernardgreen]

How often is that likely to happen ?

I agree not very often, but a real pain if it does have to be changed.

 

[ericmark]

A 13A plug is designed to run in free air. For intermittent use with a 3A fuse likely no problem but anything drawing anywhere near full 13A should be in free air and unless cupboard is empty that's not free air.

I have my waste disposal unit with standard surface mount socket inside the cupboard mainly as outside could be subject to water splashes.

In theroy kitchen fitters should swap the 13A socket to a FCU to extend to where items can be plugged in and there should be access to the fuse however we all know this is often not the case and have spend ages trying to find where plugged in and really with no indication of where the cables run it does not strictly comply.

You have to decide if your following rules or not. Remember all fuses get hot and there is a fuse inside the plug which is why it should be in free are to cool it.

 

[sparkwright]

Though option two has several advantages, it does look absolutely dreadful, and makes accessibility for maintenance difficult.

A dry line box in the back of a cupboard is neat.

A surface box screwed to the solid side of the cabinet is good too, you don't get a very good fixing on thin hardboard backs.

 

[flameport]

Fitting a dry-lining box to the back of the cupboard (8mm thick backs) seems the neatest option. Is this acceptable?

No, the back is too thin and will not support any socket properly.
If you want it on the back, fix a piece of timber behind the cupboard back panel (timber piece is the full width of the cupboard and directly against the back panel, screwed and glued in place before the cupboard is installed).
Fix a surface box on the inside, screwing through the back panel into the timber behind. For the neatest install, drill a hole through the timber first so that cables enter the back of the box and therefore won't be visible.

[*]Cut a hole through the back of the cupboard, and fit a surface-mount box to the wall behind. This seems like the most secure option, and could probably be just as neat with careful cutting..

Secure, but this involves cutting a huge hole in the back of your kitchen cupboard, and the fact it will be recessed in too far will make it far more difficult to connect wires. It will also get filthy with no way to clean it.

[*]Or fit a surface-mount box to the inside of the cupboard (and then, would it be located on the back, or on one side?)

As above, or fit to the side - although the side means that cables will have to be on the surface in mini trunking or similar.

As for the appliances themselves (undercounter, fully integrated) - these come complete with fitted plugs. Should small holes be drilled, the wires fed through and new plugs fitted; or should large cut-outs be made to feed the plug through intact?

Use a proper hole saw to cut a round hole large enough for the plug to fit through. 70mm should be ok.
Otherwise the plug will have to be removed every time the appliance is shifted for repair/cleaning/etc., and there is every possibility of the plug not being refitted properly, and it takes far longer than cutting a hole.

 

[planenut]

You could always reduce the size of the backing and install a surface pattress on the wall behind, so that one can still access it from through the cupboard.

Another alternative is position a socket on the wall above the rear and just plug it in there, at least it is quickly accessible, which all shut offs should be.

 

[ekmdgrf]

How often is that likely to happen ?

I agree not very often, but a real pain if it does have to be changed.

It's a right strain lifting your hand above your head to flick that MCB and I once broke a nail doing it. Definitely worth avoiding.