soil pipe on roof

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Building control have told me that I must extend the soil vent pipe up along the slope of a slate roof so that it ends above a new velux window I have installed. Problem is - how do I fix it to the roof without damaging the slates? Also I am afraid that wind force will cause the pipe to move when fixed thereby causing any fixings to work loose.
 
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Is it an option to redirect the SVP internally (perhaps between the rafters)then take it through the roof higher up?
 
Roofer said:
Is it an option to redirect the SVP internally (perhaps between the rafters)then take it through the roof higher up?

hello Roofer:
Not really. we have converted the loft (which is why there is a velux window) and the roof void is now a bedroom.

timtom
 
How about putting a branch onto the SVP and rerouting it away from the Velux, then cutting down the original and putting a Durgo valve on it?
 
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Roofer said:
How about putting a branch onto the SVP and rerouting it away from the Velux, then cutting down the original and putting a Durgo valve on it?
Hello Roofer. No, building inspector won't allow a durgo on exterior pipe.
Glad you are trying for me, though! Many thanks

Timtom
 
is it currently coming up through the roof or just up past the guttering, if the latter could you run it along the wall and up the side of a gable.

Your now going to tell me its a mid terrace anyway :(
 
chappers said:
is it currently coming up through the roof or just up past the guttering, if the latter could you run it along the wall and up the side of a gable.

Your now going to tell me its a mid terrace anyway :(

No, not a mid terrace. But a long way from the gable end - 5 metres.
The pipe passes through the soffit and straight through the roof via a lead slate flashing. I would have to replace soffit and slates if I bend the pipe and run it along the face to the gable. Probably not feasible - a lot of labour involved. Thanks anyway, chappers

Timtom
 
fair enough know the type you mean what tiles or slates do you have on your roof.

If they are large format tiles this would work get a normal soil pipe bracket and bolt it to a length of galvenised strap, slide up one of your tiles and fix the strap to the exposed batten at the top with the strap coming down so the bracket is just below the line of the tiles when you slide it back down.

do this in a couple of places and you should be sorted.
 
chappers said:
fair enough know the type you mean what tiles or slates do you have on your roof.

If they are large format tiles this would work get a normal soil pipe bracket and bolt it to a length of galvenised strap, slide up one of your tiles and fix the strap to the exposed batten at the top with the strap coming down so the bracket is just below the line of the tiles when you slide it back down.

do this in a couple of places and you should be sorted.

Yes, I can see a possibility of this working! Roof is of slates which may make it a bit trickier, but if I were to use a thin strip pushed up inside (lol)
it might work. I'll give it a go and let you know how I get on.....

Timtom
 
I knew you were going to say its slates does make it a bit trickier as you will first need to get a slate rip and rip out a couple of slates then find something thin enough to fit between the sltes you will also need to lead strap the slates you remove. You will however have the advantage of being able to fix your bracket strap close to the bottom of the slate making it a bit more stable.
 
Wooden block fixed to the rafters thru the slates and covered with a lead slate-- Block to be wide enough to take a 2 screw fixing bracket for the soil pipe...also ask B.Control if you can reduce to 3inch for the vent :idea: .If you`ve got safe acess to roof, I`ll come out of retirement in Sussex with my leadburning kit ;) When it`s warmer :confused:
 
thats a good point Nige we reduced a vent to 2" on the last job we did with no problems.
 
Nige F said:
Wooden block fixed to the rafters thru the slates and covered with a lead slate-- Block to be wide enough to take a 2 screw fixing bracket for the soil pipe...also ask B.Control if you can reduce to 3inch for the vent :idea: .If you`ve got safe acess to roof, I`ll come out of retirement in Sussex with my leadburning kit ;) When it`s warmer :confused:

Thanks Nige.
Yes that seems to be the way the building inspector suggested. I wish I could wait until summer so you could get up on the bleeding roof and fix it for me, but it is costing me every day I wait for my Completion Cert!

Timtom
 
chappers said:
I knew you were going to say its slates does make it a bit trickier as you will first need to get a slate rip and rip out a couple of slates then find something thin enough to fit between the sltes you will also need to lead strap the slates you remove. You will however have the advantage of being able to fix your bracket strap close to the bottom of the slate making it a bit more stable.

Hello Chappers

I heard of a slate fixing Owens Jenny: when I investigated I found that the slates are fixed to solid timber 6" x !2 planking laid straight on to the rafters and there are no battens.

Can it get any worse?

Timtom
 
Why not just lay the pipe on the slates, then form a length of 'Builders Band' over the pipe and a few inches across the slates. Then drill through the builders band in a couple of places, straight through the slates into the roof void. Go inside and place noggins in the right spot under the new holes and go back outside, then use 'roofers screws' through the holes into the new noggins. The screws I refer to have a large head and large rubber washer under the head that seal the screw from leakage? You could add a dollop of silicone under the Builders Band to make sure it doesn't leak.




joe
 

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