Solid Oak Flooring 120 mm wide 22mm depth expansion problem

[doggysoft]

I have just returned from my sisters cottage in Wales. My deceased brother-in-law had but down the above on to a concrete floor ( 25 years old ) with hard vinyl tiles on top.. The floor is about 4 sq meters, I have removed the skirting board on two sides he left no expansion gap and the floor is now buckling on one side only. I have removed one 12 cm board with difficulty using a jigsaw to check for damp ( all OK ) but the vinyl tile is stuck to the board with the adhesive.

My plan was to initially remove with a circular saw a 15 mm piece all around the floor to create an expansion gap but I can't find equipment that will enable me to cut this close to the wall.

All rotary saws only cut to a depth of 12mm as well.

Alternatively remove all loose boards about a meter wide with circular saw and re-lay leaving the expansion gap.
I am trying to preserve the integrity of the present floor as much as possible.

Any advice would be most appreciated.


Rob
Any ideas would be appreciated

 

[JohnD]

Never had to do this, but I'd try:

saw round the floor as close to the edge as you can (take the skirting off)

saw the removed pieces to a convenient size and refit?

though if they are glued to a concrete floor they surely can't move much?

I am a bit puzzled by the idea of fitting solid oak and gluing vinyl to it

 

[doggysoft]

The skirting boards are now off on two sides of the room. the flooring is tight up to the walls.

The hard vinyl tiles were originally stuck to the concrete floor subsequently the wooden flooring was stuck to the vinyl tiles.

My research so far has revealed that the floor would have been OK if my brother-in-law had left an expansion gap.

Solid wooden floors expand and contract due to climatic conditions i.e expand in summer , contract in winter due to increase and decrease in humidity especially in a central heated building in winter.


Thanks,
Rob

 

[JohnD]

OK, I see

remember that wood expands only across the grain, not lengthways, so no great need to trim the ends.

 

[RoyMacDonald]

Maybe he did leave a gap and the floor has expanded too much

The original post says the oak has hard vinyl tile stuck on top. Are there two layers or just one underneath?

Is there material in the wall that could be chiseled out? You don't need much, by the sound of it 6 mm would do. Other than that some sharp wood chisels and a mallet along the offending side should do. You'll have 22 mm to play with that will be covered by the skirting board I guess.

 

[tall_tone]

Maybe he did leave a gap and the floor has expanded too much

.....

Is there material in the wall that could be chiseled out? You don't need much, by the sound of it 6 mm would do. Other than that some sharp wood chisels and a mallet along the offending side should do. You'll have 22 mm to play with that will be covered by the skirting board I guess.

Agreed. This would be the better option if possible. If the wood shrinks back when the central heating is turned on, you could be left with edges showing from under the skirting.

TT

 

[doggysoft]

Hi,
No Gap as he left wood spacers to align the first row of boards to get a square edge for the first boards. The boards are pressing against the stone wall in places as the wall is not straight.

These spacers have been now removed, this is an old stone cottage with stone interior walls

It took me 4 hours to get the first board up using a jigsaw, broke three chisels because I didn't know it was stuck to a vinyl tile underneath.

Need a tool to remove the first 15 mm of wood flooring up aginst the wall.
Thanks,
Rob.

 

[doggysoft]

Hi,

No gap up against a stone wall for most of its 4 m length, didn't even leave a gap at door architrave.

I need some type of rotary saw that can get close to the wall edge.

I have been given an ExaKt EC-310-GL which would be perfect except the cut depth is only 12mm I need at least 25mm.


Would a Rotozip spiral saw power tool be of any use, does any one know what depth it cuts down too. Seen them onEbay.
I have thought maybe a multi-purpose cutting disc on a grinder would do it. It doesn't matter if the wood burns slightly as it will be hidden by the skirting board.

I need to cut through to the tile so I can easily remove the unwanted wood with a chisels.

Thanks,

Rob

 

[RoyMacDonald]

You are going need to lift the buckled section anyway so could you not deal with the need to create an expansion gap then?

 

[doggysoft]

Trying to avoid removing lifted section if posible as this would be at a back section covered with a heavy bureau.

What equipment would be best to take out flooring as jigsaw is no good as it hits the concrete floor.

Thanks,

Rob

 

[Petest67]

Try a fein multimaster or the Bosch multi tool. It'll take a while and you'll go through a few blades. Alternatively try a door saw (door trimmer) or the Dewalt plunge saw. They won't get right into the corners though.

 

[RoyMacDonald]

Assuming you want to taking out lengths, screw a batten to the floor and use a circular saw set very close to the thickness of the wood. Finish the end of the cut with a floorboard saw.

I'm a bit puzzled because if you don't think it's necessary to remove the buckled section why not just leave the floor alone? Presumably it's been down quite a while and it's not going to keep expanding indefinatly. The buckling is the floors solution to a lack of expansion gap. I suspect the furniture on the buckled section is the cause of the buckling by reducing the airflow over the wood and making it locally damper than the rest of the floor.

Hire a moisture meter and test the floor.