Steel lintel set at wrong height

[hello536]

Hi!

Can new steel lintels set and built into partially constructed walls (newly-erected one week ago), be removed and re-set?
The lintels should have been set one course lower to be in line with existing openings. Also, to help achieve a better roof pitch - more than 15 deg. so we can use plain concrete tiles to match existing.

 

[Doggit]

Concrete and mortar takes 28 to cure, so as long as you're careful how you get it out, there shouldn't be too much problem. Might be better to use a mortar rake on a drill, or a diamond disc on an angle grinder though. Make sure everything is well supported, and don't hesitate to take out and refix any bricks that become lose.

 

[^woody^]

I recall moving a lintel from a house and it was installed in 1962, so I don't think time is a real issue

 

[Doggit]

If the house was built in 62, the mortar would have been fully cured. A wall erected only a week ago is far more susceptible to being wacked about in order to get the steel out, that's all, hence best to do it carefully.

 

[noseall]

Surely, if this lintel is interfering with roof pitch, there can't be much (if any) masonry above it?

 

[^woody^]

If the house was built in 62, the mortar would have been fully cured. A wall erected only a week ago is far more susceptible to being wacked about in order to get the steel out, that's all, hence best to do it carefully.

How do you "whack a wall about" when the lintel is on top of the wall.

I'd describe it as "lifting the lintel off"

 

[hello536]

Thank you all very much for the info, warnings and advice. The builder - who doesn't know yet what's planned for him - will have to come equipped with a diamond disc for his angle grinder and with help, should be able to remove the lintels. My main concerns were whether removing the lintels, hopefully undamaged in the process and reused were a NO! NO! Again, thank you.

(for "noseall") There are three courses of brick above the lintel. The rafters would have been cut to sit the plate that would have lain along the length of the top course and then extended up to the existing house wall. If the existing wall didn't have an existing window in it, then increasing the roof pitch would not be a problem; the additional cost of creating a "window well", etc., etc. would not be welcome. Have a good week folks!

 

[theprinceofdarkness]

Because of the shape of the disc cutter slot (its a radius), I would drill 6mm holes through the mortar course right at the end of the lintel, in fact I would chain drill the whole mortar course and any vertical one at the ends if this has gone in. This will give you something to chisel out, disc cutter slots are too narrow to get a chisel into. You will need the longest 6 or 6.5mm drill you can find and drill from both sides. Once holes have been made you can then drill then at an angle to remove some more mortar.
Frank

 

[^woody^]

Jeez.

You put a chisel in the bed joint of one brick or block and then hit it. The brick or block moves up, you lever it out. The others on the course then come out in the same way, but even easier.