Stuck stopcock does not have a gland nut

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Hi all

I have a stopcock that won't turn off fully. I have coaxed it from not moving at all to now moving almost a full turn, but it won't fully close. The thing is, every picture and description I have seen of a stopcock talks about the packing/gland nut and how this can be released to help with freeing up the stuck mechanism - but my stopcock does not have a gland nut, instead there is just a circlip on the spindle (see picture). I can't find anything like this on the net. How does it not leak with no gland nut?
I can't replace the whole unit because the bottom nut is inaccessible. So another option is to replace the valve mechanism with that from another unit but my worry here is that another unit won't be compatible with this one, or once I've opened it up I won't get it back together for some reason.
Leaning towards just putting a full bore lever in the pipe work above this and leaving the stopcock alone but am really curious as to why my stopcock is different to any I can find.

 
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The stopcock spindle has an O ring on it, which hopefully prevents leaks.
Presumably it's stuck fully on? Can you fit another stopcock above it, after turning the supply off in the road?
John :)
 
Not seen one of those either but I assume that the circlip holds the packing in the same way as the gland nut does.

I suspect there has been some leaking from the packing as there is residue visible around the circlip.

Normally, the gland but can be undone and then it is a matter of re-packing around the spindle. You've probably seen that when you've done your internet enquiries.

I presume that you can remove the circlip and re-pack in the same way as you would normally do with a gland nut but it is going to be very awkward in that tight space and no guarantee it will fix the problem.

The experts on here will be able to better advise you but I would suggest the easiest method is to isolate the main water supply (do you know where your stopcock is?) to prevent water pouring out when you undo the body of the valve. Undo the valve body and source a direct replacement. AFAIK, the internal working is the same for almost all (if not all) stop taps and the valve body size is fairly standard.

A new stop tap (complete) is only a few quid and -yes- you will only be using the valve body but I believe it's well worth it.

Have posted a couple of pics below so you can see what I mean. The first is a simple diagram of a stop tap and the second is a picture (second one down) of one with the valve body removed.

https://www.plumber24hours.co.uk/leaking-stop-valve.html



http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/taps/replace-stop-tap-washer
 
Just seen Burnerman's reply so I assume the circlip holds the o-ring seal and there is no packing... (am I correct Burnerman?)

Still think the easiest way is replace the valve body if it is too difficult to replace the whole stop tap.
 
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Similar ones I have seen have just had O ring(s), theoretically replaceable!
Like you, going for a the insert would be the easiest, assuming dimensions are standard!
John :)
 
Thanks for the replies and links, much appreciated!

Removing the circlip appears to do nothing. I can only assume it's there to stop the spindle from moving into the body when being turned clockwise, but with it removed it makes no difference - the recess where the circlip sits does not move in or out while turning. Also once removed there is no access to packing in the same way a gland nut removal would give. So I guess I might try the body replacement option and hope they are all standard fit.

Had a look on the pavement and found the water cover. I'll probably make a stop key rather than buy one (I am so tight).
 
Although they may be a bit more expensive, would be worth going to your local plumbing supplies (not the big sheds) with the old valve body so you can be sure that the new one will fit.

Yes - your water will be off while you go there but it will be worth checking the fit beforehand.

I cannot say FOR SURE that all the valve bodies will be a standard size hence why I suggest checking first.

Most local plumbing supplies shops will be happy to help and advise.

Let us know how you go.

Best of luck

B
 
From the pic it looks a bit like a tap valve. I reckon if you undo the nut, the whole thing should pull out. You might even be able to clean it up and re-use it.
 
Managed to get the stopcock to turn that little bit more after a 24h treatment of WD40, 3in1 and penetrating oil, all applied where the clip sits. Seems to shut off OK now so will leave this one with a note to self to turn the thing every six months.
Thanks for the help!
 

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