Swap CP61 for CP63

[rolyatescort]

As per title i am about to swap a CP61 pump for a CP63 pump.

As per my other thread, it has been recommended to me that i just remove the internals of the CP61 without disturbing the housing.

Q1. Stupid Q i know but i assume i have to drain the system before doing this?

Q2. The CP61 has 4 Allen bolts, one in each corner. The CP63 only has 2 one each on opposing corners. They do appear to be the same centres. Is it alright to swap them even though the new one has less fixing points?

Thanks in advance

 

[gazthepottertonengineer]

1. yes drain system or boiler at least

2. yes its a straight swap even though there are only 2 bolts thats all you need so chuck the other 2 away

3. put pump on speed 3 to work at same setting as cp61

Thats ok (in advance)

 

[cross thread]

if no isolation valves you will have to drain,dont know if heads are interchangable 63 might be deeper,better changing full pump as inlet is most likley to be partly blocked with years of crud

 

[ChrisR]

3. put pump on speed 3 to work at same setting as cp61

DOn't think that was intended?
I thought CP61 on speed 3 was same as CP63 on speed 2.
Curves are on BES iirc.

Took me nearly a day to change a pump recently - system wouldn't drain and airlocks everywhere. Very tempted to buy an electric freezer.
If you're draining down you may as well change the damned pump valves too - though watch the lengths they're all different and often the pipes won't budge.

 

[rolyatescort]

CP63 speed 3 is same as CP61. CP61 is non-adjustable.

Thanks for those answers, have done it now and is now running so will wait and see what happens next. Cleaned as much crud out as i could and will be cleaning the system this weekend.

Was advised in my other thread to swap this way to reduce the chances of damaging surrounding pipework.

Thanks again.

 

[ollski]

Personally I bung the system and change the whole pump, if the pump union nuts don't want to undo then hacksaw them through and break em off with a screwdriver and replace with new ones. I don't turn on or off any valves I don't absolutely have to.

 

[ChrisR]

Sorry I was thinking CP53 not CP61...
Yes t'was I who advised removing the allen screws!


thread has widened to pump changing generally...
Bungs...
But if you bung the system (only works rarely for me with rubber bungs due to splines inside tank connectors - if you can reach) and then remove the pump, you have 2 open ends so you get very wet..??

 

[ollski]

Sorry I was thinking CP53 not CP61...
Yes t'was I who advised removing the allen screws!


thread has widened to pump changing generally...
Bungs...
But if you bung the system (only works rarely for me with rubber bungs due to splines inside tank connectors - if you can reach) and then remove the pump, you have 2 open ends so you get very wet..??

You don't chris, trust me. I change pumps and 3 port valves on the bungs, after all you change the ball and plate on a honeywell on bungs don't you?, and there's 3 open ends on there. If you normally come across splined tank connectors wrap a load of gas ptfe around the outside of the bung....works 75% of the time.

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

Yea I find bungs work approx 75% of the time, normally works when you have time to drain off and not when your in a hurry, dont understand why they dont work all of the time, waters water innit.