Switch Replacement Help

[Colinstu310]

Hi, looking for some help please.....
I've tried searching, though I know what I want to do I'm not sure what I would call it so thought a description with pics would be better.
Been in my house for a year now....there's 2 switches at the top of the stairs, 1 is single & 1 twin. The twin 1 controls the bathroom light & the top landing light. The other is a different type of switch, which at 1st I thought did nothing.
As I thought it didn't do anything I decided to replace it with a blank 2 look nicer.
Long story short, turns out it only powered the boiler so had to put the switch back on.
The bit in between probably merits the disasters section

To my Q...can I replace the switch with a blank but connected the wires in such a way that the power is always on??
The boiler has another fused switch connected 2 it.
There is also another couple wires connected 2 the switch which are a couple sockets located in the loft & a bedroom.
It's more of an aesthetics thing, it's a horrible white switch covered in plaster/paint & the rest are all brushed silver.
Any help/advice would b much appreciated, cheers, Colin
Some pics...

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• Colinstu310
• 12 Jun 2014
• 1

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• Colinstu310
• 12 Jun 2014
• 1

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• Colinstu310
• 12 Jun 2014
• 1

 

[RF Lighting]

I'm not seeing anything immediately obvious that would prevent you removing the switch.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I would say no without checking as it looks like a spur with more than one item connected to it.

You can get Fused Connectors to match the other switch.

 

[securespark]

Are there two conductors in and two out to each live terminal?

 

[Colinstu310]

Are there two conductors in and two out to each live terminal?

Yes.
Should I just find a replacement switch that matches the 1 next to it?
Does it need 2 be a fused connector?

 

[securespark]

What circuit is it on?

How big is the fuse or CB that protects that circuit?

 

[Colinstu310]

What circuit is it on?

How big is the fuse or CB that protects that circuit?

The upstairs lights circuit.
Pic of the fuse box......that what you mean?

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• Colinstu310
• 13 Jun 2014
• 1

 

[stem]

I've seen something that looks like this a couple of times before. The hot water cylinder is removed when a new combi boiler is installed. Then the original immersion heater circuit, complete with dual pole isolator and neon, which is now redundant is used to supply the boiler via a new Fused Connection Unit with a 3A fuse. Why anyone would move the supply to the upstairs light circuit is a mystery though (are you absolutely sure about this?) unless perhaps they wanted to use the old immersion heater position in the consumer unit for something else.

If you fit a blank and connect the wires permanently, you will need to check that there is a 3A fuse protecting the boiler and a method of isolation for it. Most boiler manufacturers specify that "a double pole isolator with a contact separation of 3mm in all poles supplying the appliance should be used." Whilst some FCU's are dual pole, not all are, so if yours is a single pole, that may be why the dual pole switch you don't like has been retained.

In any case, whilst having the boiler on the lighting circuit is not ideal, although not necessarily dangerous. if you have sockets connected to it and it is wired into the lighting circuit, they should be disconnected. If the circuit is not connected to the upstairs lights and is connected to a 20A MCB (as most immersion heaters are) that would be OK.

 

[Colinstu310]

I've seen something that looks like this a couple of times before. The hot water cylinder is removed when a new combi boiler is installed. Then the original immersion heater circuit, complete with dual pole isolator and neon, which is now redundant is used to supply the boiler via a new Fused Connection Unit with a 3A fuse. Why anyone would move the supply to the upstairs light circuit is a mystery though (are you absolutely sure about this?) unless perhaps they wanted to use the old immersion heater position in the consumer unit for something else.

If you fit a blank and connect the wires permanently, you will need to check that there is a 3A fuse protecting the boiler and a method of isolation for it. Most boiler manufacturers specify that "a double pole isolator with a contact separation of 3mm in all poles supplying the appliance should be used." Whilst some FCU's are dual pole, not all are, so if yours is a single pole, that may be why the dual pole switch you don't like has been retained.

In any case, whilst having the boiler on the lighting circuit is not ideal, although not necessarily dangerous. if you have sockets connected to it and it is wired into the lighting circuit, they should be disconnected. If the circuit is not connected to the upstairs lights and is connected to a 20A MCB (as most immersion heaters are) that would be OK.

Thanks.
It is a combi boiler that is now installed. Connected to the boiler itself is a fused switch but im sure it is a 13amp as when everything stopped working this was the 1st thing I checked & changed. So the boiler is able to be isolated.

The switch may infact be on the upstairs socket circuit, i'd need to double check this.
If it is, & as you say I can "fit a blank and connect the wires permanently"....how would i do this?
Cheers

 

[securespark]

I'd be surprised to find a bunch of 2.5's connected to a domestic lighting circuit.

 

[stem]

I'd be surprised to find a bunch of 2.5's connected to a domestic lighting circuit.

I agree, which was why I asked the OP to check.

If it is, & as you say I can "fit a blank and connect the wires permanently"....how would i do this?

The isolator terminals should be marked something like

L1
L2
N1
N2

or

L in
L out
N in
N out

If so, using suitable connectors:

1. Connect all of the wires going to the 'L' terminals together
2. Connect all of the wires going to the 'N' terminals together
3. Connect all of the earth wires together.

If the terminals are different, post back what they are marked.

The connectors you use must be large enough for the number of wires and circuit current rating, which if it is connected to the socket ring circuit, should be 30 A.

You really do need to check the boiler fusing arrangements (13A FCU fitted with 3A fuse) and that there is also a double pole isolator.

 

[Colinstu310]

^
Thanks guys.

It does ring a bell that there is IN / OUT on the back of the switch.
I'll check this & the circuit tonight.

So this is the type of connector i should use then in order to put a blank plate on it:-
http://www.screwfix.com/p/30a-terminal-strips-pack-of-10/45725

I'll take a pic of the switch that goes to the boiler...it looks like this:-
http://www.screwfix.com/p/marbo-13a-dp-switched-fused-connection-unit-white/27148#
Im sure it has a 13amp fuse in it tho not 3.

Apologies for all the Q's.....complete novice in terms of elecs other than basics like wiring plugs & changing ceiling lights etc

 

[EFLImpudence]

No. Firstly, you must verify the wiring is satisfactory.