Texecom Veritas R8 - cut through wire

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Hi all

I cut through the alarm wire while i changed the carpet upstairs. The wire seems to go to one of the detectors. The wire has 6 colour little wires in it and a few 'cotton/firber'.

Right after I cut the wire, the alarm went on. I use my password to stop it and then I re-connect the 6 colour wires. When i connected four of them, the alarm went (I stop it every time it went) and there was nothing happenned for the other 2. Does it suppose to be like that? Where does the wires go to?

Should I worry about the cotton/firber in the wire? It's smaller than hairs.

Anyway, after I re-connect the 6 wires the alarm doesn't seems to work probably. I used this alarm once before (because it was newly installed). If I'm leaving the house, after I key the password and press 'Full', it should beep a few times and when i close the door it should stop deeping (from my memory). but now it just continues beeping non-stop. Did I connect the wire wrong? should the system be re-set? any suggestion???

Thank you in advance.
 
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Dont worry about the "fibre" wire , its just a draw string.The alarm will not set if one of the zones are "open" or in fault.Have a look on your display when setting to confirm this.You have probably blown a fuse inside the main panel , most probably the AUX supply ( this powers the detectors ).If you are lucky , then there may be a spare fuse inside the panel , if not , get one from Maplins , always get like for like values.
Regards.
 
What a expensive mistake! Because i don't know how to change the fuse, I spent 40 pounds for the 15 mins job. :eek:
Yet, I don't know how they fix it, because they did it so quick!!! :confused: And I was sent to remove the furniture for them to view the cut wire.
Any idea how they stop the alarm when they take the lid of the main box off?
How they find out which fuse is blown?
 
If it was the company who installed it, they would use their eng code to disable the global tamper before removing the cover. (entering eng code, and then pressing prog enters prog menu and disables the tamper).

The fuse would likey be the aux fuse that blew (powering the detectors). They would look at this one first. They are glass fuses, so you would be able to see immediately.

How did you repair the cable, and where they happy with it?
 
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I connect each wire together and tape them individually. yes, they are happy with it.
Every thing works at the end, but i want to know how it was done, just in case it happens again. i'm very scared of cutting wires now...
 
I connect each wire together and tape them individually. yes, they are happy with it.
Every thing works at the end, but i want to know how it was done, just in case it happens again. i'm very scared of cutting wires now...
Well, if they are happy with that repair I suggest you find an alarm company who knows how to do their job correctly.

A twist & wrap joint as you have done is a FALSE ALARM WAITING TO HAPPEN.

Either the cable should have been replaced or the twist joints soldered & wrapped.

Please get this sorted or look forward to my sentence number two.
 
i want to know how it was done, just in case it happens again. i'm very scared of cutting wires now...

Hopefully the cables are installed so as not to be likely to be damaged......but by the sounds of it the company have not installed to a particularly high standard.

If you don't have the eng code, the alarm will sound when the cover is removed. Entering the user code will silence it, assuming the installer has left the "engineer only can silence tampers" option off (default).
 
The location of the cut section of the cable is under the carpet, and under a bed. I guess it's unlikely someone will pull or touch it.

It would be great to know what the workman supposes to do before the work takes place. I will probably get igorned if I complain after I pay...

Thank you for all your replies. :)
 
I connect each wire together and tape them individually. yes, they are happy with it.
Well, if they are happy with that repair I suggest you find an alarm company who knows how to do their job correctly.

A twist & wrap joint as you have done is a FALSE ALARM WAITING TO HAPPEN.

Either the cable should have been replaced or the twist joints soldered & wrapped.

Please get this sorted or look forward to my sentence number two.
What makes you think that the poor joint below the bed will not give problems in the future?

It's not pulling / or touching that is going to cause you a problem but oxidisation of the 'joint', that's why it should be soldered.

I've seen this happen in less than a week when the joint is on a concrete floor, takes a bit longer on a wooden floor though.
 

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