Trying to fault find Honeywell Y-Plan system

The Jeep said:
[please elaborate!! Thanks.
(just cancelled his action so awaiting feedback from yourself and anyone else in the know...)

honeywell valve bodies are just more reliable long term than the wedges and cams which pass and leak. There is not much to choose in the actuators but the honeywells are one of the more servicable usually. It's just a general preference but if I was replacing one in my house I would pay the extra 20 quid for the honeywell.
 
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So it's Honeywell United 1, Sunvic Wanderers 0...half-time or full-time score? :)
 
chrishutt said:
Note to Jeep - Room stat opening is same as programmer CH switch opening, so no need to duplicate diagrams.

Yeah, I see what's happening now. Thanks for all the helpful advice, by the way :D
 
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Hi

Can anyone confirm for certain please that 4.7 microF is the right value? That's quite a big C to have across the mains!

Thanks
mike


You dont say what the boiler is.

Some units (such as the old Worcester 28 CDi system boiler) have electronic sensing on the PCB - rather than a relay - which is sensitive enough to trigger on the orange of a Honeywell 3 port from the low voltage 'leak'.

In the case of the Worcester they used to suggest you go to your local capacitor retailer and buy a 4.7 micro farad to ground the signal.... how convenient.

This is not the case on their newer range. The German boilers (and 28CDi was a German one) tend to be sensitive to this as they were not designed to work with Honeywell, many system boilers use the internal 'combi' diverter valve for the heating/hw selection in a system boiler and have a three pipe connection in Germany.
 

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