Two 2.5mm T&E in conduit

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One of the How to's describes how to make a channel to run cable in and says to use oval conduit and then plaster over. In an attached thread about the difficulty of getting 2.5mm T&E down a conduit it is pointed out that you shouldn't really run two of these cables down a single conduit. That's going to make my current project of adding some sockets by extending the ring a whole lot more difficult.

Is this true? As far as I can tell, most of the wall sockets in my house are fed by two cables that run up and down the wall in very close proximity.
 
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Many sparks use 20m oval tube for 2x2.5T+E. If you keep the cables straight, and do not allow kinks - it's fine.

25mm is easier, but you need a wider chase. I prefer 20.

Cable spacing factors can be over-used for domestics.
 
In that case, 25mm will be too small aswell.

Think of the oval tube as enclosed caping.

Do sheaths play a part in the spacing factor?

How many houses have 2x2.5t+E in oval tube!

As far as I, and most others are concerned, spacing factors do not apply in this instance.
 
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Thanks for your help on this. Now I can go ahead and buy the stuff but I'm a bit confused about the width of chisel. The options for SDS channeling chisels seem to be 25 or 30mm, plus 20mm for cutting behind skirting. Lectrician says he prefers to use 20mm oval tube as it requires a narrower chase - would that be 25mm?
 
would it not be easier to just use capping?
 
I hate capping.

Doesn't matter what size chissel you use - you can never just stick a chisel in the wall and 'cut' the groove ;)
 
Lectrician said:
I hate capping.

Doesn't matter what size chissel you use - you can never just stick a chisel in the wall and 'cut' the groove ;)

that doesnt bother me. i just make a nice wide channel. at least i dont hae to plaster. we would use conduit, but its probably 'too expensive' for the council to use. just like there usin the cheepo earth clamps. i used 6 just to bond a water pipe
 
Thanks guys, I've never done this before but the electrical side of things is not as mysterious as the process of cutting channels into an existing, plastered wall and then covering the wires before plastering over again. From what's been said here and in other threads I would choose to use oval tube and expect to make quite a mess with a 25mm SDS+ chisel.

What's not clear is what size of tube will fit the channel I produce and how I fix the tube - I have visions of holes in the top face through which the plaster will flow. Perhaps that's not a problem?!
 
People use Various tricks to hold the conduit in place while the plaster sets - from bent over masonry nails, to globs of mastic or hot melt glue, even tape! (though really you shouldn't leave anything in the wall that could cause a problem later ) However, one tube ends in the wall box, and the other into the ceiling void above, so there is nowhere for the plaster to run to. (a little may bleed toothpaste-like into the backbox, particulary if this is being plastered in - and for sockets I'd suggest a rawl plug and screw, not nails, avoids pull out. This can be scratched out at 'second fix' once the plaster has dried off.)
Personally I prefer to use the long versions of the old fashioned metal buckle clips to hold the conduit still, if the wall is up to the masonry nails - and usually if the blocks aren't the mortar is. ;)
The plaster needs to be stiff enough not to slump, and there are divided opinions over the use of 'one-coat versus a cement skim, scratched, and then a top coat skim the next day. Depends more on your plastering skills than electrical.
regards M.
 
I'd already decided that the TLC Direct type would only be appropriate on an unplastered wall - the Saren ones look like an excellent solution. This assumes, of course, that I achieve a reasonably neat channel in both the plaster and block. From what I've read in this forum, that may be optimistic!

My plastering skills are non-existent a this stage so the two stage approach might be better. Since most of this work will subsequently be hidden by base units or wall tiles I'm hoping that I can get away with a less than professional finish.
 
The way I tackle plastering for electricians - others may disagree
I assume the wires are in the tubes, and everything is reasonably rigid,


1) if at the deepest its more than say 1 inch deep, do sand cement 'browning') (1 cement, 3 or 4 of smooth pit 'bricklayers' sand )
to consistency of an icecream, adding a little washing-up liquid during mixing to aid adhesion. Wet wall in channel with hairy paint brush.

Apply with filler blade or wall paper scraper to depth of few mm to half an inch from final surface. Scratch with old dining fork, and go to bed, then treat as method '2' tommorow.


2) Start here if less than 1 inch deep, mix up "one coat plaster" adding dust to water, mix to consistency of cake mixture. This is probably stiffer than you might think, the mixture should be capable of standing un-aided in little hillocks on a mortar board. Wt the wall with a brush, fill flush with wall on either side of damage using a piece of wood as a leveling batton (keep batton wet in bucket of water.)
Once plaster is part dry, a skilled worker can skim over with very wet batton or a proper metal float to give a 'mirror' finish and allow to dry.



If you are tiling or even wallpapering over it then the un-mirrored finish will be absolutely fine, if painting, then some making good may still be required. For small areas to be painted and on show you can still omit this step, and just sand level afterwards, but this makes a lot of dust, and the pros will laugh.

If the layer is really thin, say les than 1/4 inch, then a better finish, but rather slower drying may be achieved with top-coat plaster. I'm not good enough to be able to produce the 'ready to paint' finish in one go though even with this, though it is less rough than the one coat.

Try some where un-obtrusive first, and only mix as much as you can use in a few minutes at a time.

regards M.

PS big bags of plaster dust are quite cheap compared with polyfilla or whatever trade name filler.
 
mapj1 said:
The way I tackle plastering for electricians - others may disagree
I assume the wires are in the tubes, and everything is reasonably rigid,

.

thsnkfully, i work for th council so during house re-wires a plasterer follows us...
 

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