Under floor heating

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Sometime ago, about 2 months, I posted a note on the General Comments area about under floor heating (UFH). At the time I had decided our home, which has a cellar, was in need of this as when the temperature fell below -5 degrees C our feet would freeze while our heads would boil. Even after insulating, the problem was not fully resolved. Anyway, I thought it might be a good time to post something on the outcome of my installation.

First, for those that either don't remember my posting or didn't read it, here's a little background to to the story.

We had decided we would like to install veneered flooring throughout the lower part of the house, excluding the kitchen, which had already been fitted with ceramic tiles. As we had been having so much trouble with the floor's insulation I had decided we would take up the existing floor, install 50mm of polyurathane foam insulation, UFH and install T & G panels.

Initially I had intended to router a channel into the floor to accept the UFH pipe, as it turned out this was not necessary and the pipes were fitted between the joints above the insulation.

Research and resources

Like any job that requires a major change to the central heating system, it's a good idea to do you research first. I spent about a year mining for information, invited reps from various companies to discuss it with me and even had one company rep visit the site. In principle it's quite a simple thing to install, in practice it requires you to have a comprehensive knowledge of building, electrics and plumbing, so I would not suggest this project to anyone that does not have these qualities.

The materials and costs

As I said earlier, in principle UFH is straight forward. It's little more than a pipe that weaves back and forth under the floor and is fed from your existing boiler. The hot water which would normally feed a radiator is used to heat the floor rather than your walls and ceilings. Choosing your materails will depend on how long the the UFH pipe needs to be and the capacity of your existing boiler.

Initially the costs of the system seemed to be in excess of £1700 if you included the new insulation. This was well above my budget for the job, so I consulted with some experts in the USA and a company here in England. It seemed if I laid the pipe as required and used small rads for each zone, (400x500mm) to capture any excess air and attached Limiter Valves to these and also added one additional pump to the system, I should get the desired effect.

I have 3 zones on my circuit, the total pipe needed was about 130 meters, this would give about 45 sq. meters of heated floor. The PolyPlumb pipe, came to £150.00 the additional pump £50, the rads, £46 and the limiter valves £72. As the floor was to be renewed anyway and the insulation would have been installed at that time with or without UFH the costs is really a BTW, but for those that are intersted the insulation and floor panels can to £183.00.

The Problems

Normally when installing UFH it's advisable to do a pressure check in the pipe. This entails connecting a special pump to the system and pumping in water until the correct test pressure is reached. As I have a boiler which tells me the pressure of the system I used this for my tests. The pressure chck showed no problems.

Initially it was undecided whether an additional pump would be needed. The manufacturer of the boiler said it wouldn't be needed while the manufacturers of the the UFH systems said it would be needed. So once the first Zone was installed I turned on the boiler to see if it would work, it did. However, when the second Zone was installed the circulation of the heated water was insufficient and it was clear the added pump would have to be installed. Added to this our supplier had some trouble getting the Limiter valves. Some of the problems they had were self inflicted, that is they just didn't do their job right, and some of the problem was related to the rarity, or so the supplier said, of the limiter valve's angled censor we wanted. Either way, we had to do our checks without the valves, and without these valves the system of pipe and rads could not be easily balanced, however we over came this by adjusting to flow through the system with ordinary rad valves.

Another small, but self inflicted problem was I hadn't tightened the pipes correctly to the pump, which meant the system lost pressure over night and emptied a small amount of water into the cellar. Not a big problem but it meant that the combi boiler wouldn't fire up until the pressure had been restored, and a cold start to my day, at least when I got out of bed and for the first half hour...I can hear you all having a good cry on my behalf :cry:

Summary

Wood floors are very popular and one thing that might stop some people installing them is the comfort level, i.e., if the floor looks and feels cold then carpets are a clear choice. UFH overcomes the problem of the floor feeling cold. However, it has been generally true that UFH is expensive to install and the 'pay back', that is, the time it takes to get back your investment on the savings made from the installation could be quite long, in fact so long you could be dead before it paid for itself. However, the system I've installed cost £410.00, possibly £450 if you allow for misc. parts such as pipe clips etc...For this investment, I have a heating system that warms the room in a comfortable way, from the feet instead of from the head. The fuel cost should fall, as once the floor is heated it remains stored in the floor itself and released over a period of time, only topping up with heat in short intervals. Of course the key feature is in the insulation, this must be right or any savings will be lost.

For anyone thinking of installing UFH, I can highly recommend it, the warmth is entirely different, you feel warm yet the room has none of the stuffy qualities normal rads give.

Some might say that the floor makes for an expensive rad, which is true. However levelled against this, the floor holds it heat for longer and therefore requires much less work from the boiler making it much cheaper to operate. However I'll post something next year once I have some idea of the true savings.

As for the installation, it's about as disruptive as it gets. The whole floor has to come up, so if you've just decorated you may want to hold off for a while, you will also need a partner or wife/husband with the patients of a saint, that trusts you completely, and a hot line to God also helps as your prays need to be answered a lot ;)
 
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Excellent post, very interesting. I've always been intrigued by the idea but haven't had a clue where to start. Thank you for taking the time to let us know :D
 
I must agree it (your post) was very informative, and very well written, my only concern with ufh, would be if a pipe was punctured, although highly unlikely.

and for those who would like to read the origonal post it can be read by clicking this
 
Wow! interesting reading,I was wondering is it not possible to connect the underfloor heating to a solar panel instead of using your boiler? not sure if anyone one know or seen it done anywhere,probably too costy.
 
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Probably not efficiant enough. Did you know you can make your own "solar panel" by getting an ordainary radiator, paint it matt black, and build a minature "geen house" just bigger than the radiator it self is, dont ask me what you do with it but you can and it does work
 
I don't think my wife will happy if I chuck out her plants and put a radiator in the greenhouse !!!!
 
It's been a while since I posted my last message on this subject. This summer has been one of the warmest on record and I doubt many of you were thinking about heating..unless, of course you had problems. Anyway, I thought you might like an update on my installation.

Advantages to date

The temptiture of the house hasn't varied 1 degree since the heating was turned on for the winter, (September)

Considering the system is left running 24hrs a day, the cost has been reduced by 25% so far. However it's worth remembering that previously it was only left on 16hrs a day, I believe that's quite impressive.
However, the real test for this will come when deep winter sets in and temperatures drop below 0 for an extended period.

The whole house is comfortably warm, whereas previously there were hot and cold spots throughout.

Dust levels have dropped to the point where the only dust seems to be that which we and the animal (cat) bring in. To this extent cleaning the home has been made much easier.

Disadvantages to date


I have to confess to having been caught off guard for my first, and only negative comment.

Having laid a laminated beech floor, (beech laminated to ply), I thought as we had already been using central heating any humidity problems would have already shown up. This was not the case, and hind sight being what it is, I can now speak with some authority on this problem.

After about 3 weeks I noticed hair line gaps appearing between the beech blocks which made up the laminated floor panels. It seemed the ply was not moving but the actual beech blocks were shrinking. Added to this my wife and I had noticed how dry we felt, dry to the point that my tongue felt like had been super glued to my pallet, so when waking in the morning I'd loose about 5Lbs of flesh off my tongue when uttering my first words of the day as it became detached from the top of my mouth :eek: . Over the next weeks things did not improve and neither did my mouth.

It was clear the humidity of the house was becoming too low. But I have to admit I really didn't know what it should be. I could try hurling a bucket of water in the room, :idea: or find out what they do in USA for this problem. In fact it didn't take long, an hour on the net and I found everything I wanted to know and a few additional things as well, for instance how to pick locks....there's a site that tells you about these things...anyway I deverse, back to the story.

The first thing to do is get your humidity back up to about 50%. humidifiers are easily available, not to be confused with dehumidifiers.

Humidifiers put moisture in, dehumidifiers take it out. I purchased mine from Argos for about £50, and it comes with it's own humidity monitor. As anyone that is interested in making furniture will tell you, if you are adding moisture content to wood, it should be done slowly if you want to avoid problems, so don't expect the wood in your room to restore itself quickly, this will take time, weeks or longer, and you may have to put up with some damage as a result of the lost moisture. However the damage in our case in not significant and can be lived with.

You should not notice the added moisture, i.e. it should still feel dry even with the added moisture in the rooms. However, you may get some added benefits that I really hadn't even thought about prior to this experience.

Apparently, like too much damp, too much dry has health implications. Now I have to say I had actually suspected this though for completely different reasons. I had noticed that some of my older neighbours that had spent their lives with little more than a coal fire and had recently taken advantage of grants to install central heating, were dropping dead within a year or two of the new central heating installations:( . Now there could have been other reasons for this, like maybe they were being gassed, or maybe their time had just come, the thing is it happened to so many of my friends that I kind of suspected they would have been better off with damp coal fires and that maybe there was some health advantage to getting up a 5am to stoke the fire. It turns out excessively dry air can effect you respiratory system, eyes, mucus membranes, in fact it can turn you into a prune if your not careful and cause your skin to itch.

Summary

Of course it adds to the cost of your heating system if you have to include a humidifier, then there's the cost of running it. Levelled against this you will have a much more comfortable and healthier internal climate for the winter.

Even with the dry problem, I would still recommend this form of heating over and above the conventional. However, when retrofitting such a system plan well, and be prepared to take a break from the DIY when it's installed. The project here was a large and time consuming effort and I suppose I went into DIY overload at the end of it, however the price was definitely worth it.
 
Thank you for sharing the information with us and totally agreed with you regarding central heating problem.Today majority of property today have double glazed windows and well insulated room is making you ill in the long run with warm air spreading germs bacteria around,this is why there're so many people are down with cold/cough in the winter.I believe you can now get a extractor fan which change the air in the room and not lose heat.You cannot beat fresh air like when I remember my parents has open fire in every room and draughty lead light windows! All we think about doing is saving heating bills cost,make you wonder if we're doing the right thing doesn't it............
 
Masona wrote
.....I was wondering is it not possible to connect the underfloor heating to a solar panel instead of using your boiler? not sure if anyone one know or seen it done anywhere,probably too costy.

Solar heating is expensive in this country for the benefits in cost terms IMO, BUT you can connect a solar heat source into the existing system using a hydraulic injector. It then doesn't matter where the heat comes from, it will get into the underfloor pipes. Not only can you connect a solar panel but you could have any number of boilers, gas, oil, solid fuel, as well (or instead) you could even connect a composting heat generator up to it. (Doesn't make it a cr*p system either :LOL:)
 
Lots of really good info your post.

We are in the process of installing UFCH. We have installed three manifolds to cover the amount of floor space we have, some rooms needing more than one circuit due to the length of the runs. We have a pump on each manifold and its all plumbed back to a Combi boiler.

What I would like to know is about your thermostat setup. Do you have one for each room/zone?

We are undecided at the moment but like the idea of having a small sensor in each room, connected back to a centralized controller.

Any suggestions.
 
I have seen similar, each room / zone does have its own stat. if you have just one stat that means that all will get to the temp of where the stat is, sort of defeats the object i would have thought
 
What I would like to know is about your thermostat set-up. Do you have one for each room/zone?

In response to your question. You can install thermostats that control servo valves for each zone, these aren't that expensive. However, if like me you have adjoining zones that are not separate rooms, i.e., I have open plan rooms, the additional stats will probably be ineffective and only cause the other zones to work even harder, equally if you have rooms that are zoned but tend to leave doors to these areas open the room stats will also be less effective.

I chose not to install a manifold for a number of reasons, however if I were installing UFH in zones which exceeded 45 square meters I would probably still have chosen to use limiter valves on rads rather then a manifold. My reasoning is this;

1/ During cool summer evenings or perhaps when I only wanted to remove the chill from a room I can do this by letting the small rads become warm rather than heating the whole floor.

2/ Limiter valves allow me to control the temperature of the water in the pipes for each zone, this means if I wanted one zone cooler than another I can do this without interfering with the balance of the system.

3/ Limiter valves only cost about £15 as opposed to something in excess of £140 for a 4 zone manifold.

My last post talks about the humidity features you will almost certainly have to take into consideration. Reiterating a point I made in that post, my only criticism of UFH is the removal of moisture from the property and it's contents. It's something I would highly recommend you deal with prior to using the UFH. I have lived in a variety of properties with all types of heating systems, warm air, rads, heated skirting etc, I can say without doubt UFH is the driest form of heat I've yet come across.

Having said this, it's also one of the best and most confortable I've ever used, that is once you get the humidity right. Good luck with your installation :D
 
Last night (well 2 nights ago now) i was at a friends house who have under floor heating, they do have separate zones and a stat and valve for each zone.

the only trouble they find is that it is too slow, in that if it is hot out it takes a while to cool down and if it is cold it takes a while to heat up, in either case it can be up to 12 hours.

I am not a plumber or heating engineer, i only write what they told me

I think that the pump is too slow, or the pies too small but over all, they are happy with it.

As for humidity, why not have a small indoor fountain?
 
breezer said:
As for humidity, why not have a small indoor fountain?

That's a good idea,I never thought of that,better than having a bowl of water :!:

Hmmmm,now a trip to the garden centre :)
 

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