Update on newbie doing Drive belt progress, need further help please

[Mottie]

As for the rear brakes I haven’t done Vauxhall ones, but on the Ford Mondeo its vital that the pads lock into the calipers properly - there is a peg which if it isn’t properly located causes exactly what you have found.

Maybe another pin in a hole situation!
If you have pads and callipers similar to these, make sure any pins on the rear of the pads locate into the slots on the piston. If the piston slots don’t line up with the pad pins, you can rotate the pistons by putting a large screwdriver in the slot and twisting it.

 

[Rightboy91]

Glad you got it sorted.

thank you I appreceite it

 

[Rightboy91]

Maybe another pin in a hole situation!
If you have pads and callipers similar to these, make sure any pins on the rear of the pads locate into the slots on the piston. If the piston slots don’t line up with the pad pins, you can rotate the pistons by putting a large screwdriver in the slot and twisting it.

View attachment 190703 View attachment 190704

Hi !
I highly dount it's to do with the pads, I changed those with discs and calpers and it passed the MOT fine.
This problem only began when I took out the handbrake cable a few weeks later and then put it in again the wheel then locked up, overheated the brakes.
someone said it seems like a seized handbrake cable. I am wondering does that mean it needs new cables then as these are self adjusting ? the handbrake works when connected but I left it off as otherwise it locks the wheel and overheats the brakes.

 

[Rightboy91]

The pulley stiffness won’t have any affect on the cars performance, but by all means check any pipes for air leakage.
As for the rear brakes I haven’t done Vauxhall ones, but on the Ford Mondeo its vital that the pads lock into the calipers properly - there is a peg which if it isn’t properly located causes exactly what you have found.
So, I’d check the pads first, one side at a time.
Over to the other bods on this one!
John

I did squash the wiring accidentally when putting air box back in but I thin kthey are ok now. it is definately sluggish and a few seconds of putting my foot down its ok, then when I stop at a light or roundabout and drive off it is sluggish, earleir today on motorway I had my foot right down for 10 seconds at least it wouldnt go past 68mph, put it into 6th then back in 5th in finally picked up speed. It seems maf related to me, I hope I haven't damamged wiring

 

[Burnerman]

Lets deal with the handbrake first.
As you have the cable disconnected right now, pull the handbrake on, and then release it again. Then, get under the car and see if you can pull the inner cable out at all......it should be perfectly free to move. If you have to pull the cable hard - maybe using pliers - then it needs to be renewed.
You say you have replaced the calipers so we are ruling those out.

Regarding the lack of power, I would suspect a turbo problem really and it could be a good idea to get that checked out. I assume the engine management light isn't on?
You need to check the large diameter air pipes leading from the intercooler to the turbo, to see if one has been blown off.
John

 

[Mottie]

see if one has been blown off.

Ooh Matron!

 

[DIYspanner]

A rear caliper foot/hand brake is self adjusting.

The best way to see the lever working on the caliper is get someone to pull on the handbrake lever in the car and have a look to see what's happening on the rear of the caliper with the lever. With the handbrake off, is the caliper lever returning to the off position?

If they're any use, a couple of videos

rear brake discs and pads, Vectra C 1.9 CDTi

How to replace rear brake discs on OPEL VECTRA

 

[Rightboy91]

Lets deal with the handbrake first.
As you have the cable disconnected right now, pull the handbrake on, and then release it again. Then, get under the car and see if you can pull the inner cable out at all......it should be perfectly free to move. If you have to pull the cable hard - maybe using pliers - then it needs to be renewed.
You say you have replaced the calipers so we are ruling those out.

Regarding the lack of power, I would suspect a turbo problem really and it could be a good idea to get that checked out. I assume the engine management light isn't on?
You need to check the large diameter air pipes leading from the intercooler to the turbo, to see if one has been blown off.
John

hey !
I think there is only 1 handbrake cable on each side of the car. I think they each span from the front of the car and end at the rear caliper to which they are slotted onto. So when you say give the i the inner cable a pull I assume you mean that cable ? ( I do not think an outer cable exists) where shall I try pulling it from, shall I leave it in the hole where it goes onto caliper and try doing it further down the cable near the rear wheel area ?
Yes I replaced both rear calipers, the piston was seized on one and when I tried wounding in the other side it began leaking so replaced the 2, both brand new at £27 each, local car parts shop wanted £75 + each ! ( I paid £54 or so for both new )

The car had plenty of power a few days ago before taking thing apart to do the drive belt. (has 197,300 on clock I have driven over 60,000 in this car in 3 years owned, engine been superb , had frequent oil changes etc )
I was a bit rough putting back in the air box in and squashed the wiring underneath a bit ( didn't cause noticeable damage and they are in plastic casing ) I think it is maf related ,. maybe after being a bit rough on the wiring ?

It's mainly putting my foot down from a stop after a few seconds it gets its power and keeps it until i go into lower gears or come to a stoop again and take off, earlier on motorway I had my foot right down it didn't go past 68 mph for at least 10 - 15 seconds I shifted gears and then it drove fine , I will over the area of the drive belt again. I only disconnected one air hose which is the one going to the air box, when putting it back on the jubilee tightened a bit then made a snapping sound so the clip is buggered but it is still on quite tight so I don't think that hose will be the issue

When I got ferry to Isle of Wight I was worried while on the boat that my car would roll even though I used wheel chocks, I am going again to the isle of wight on another holiday soon so I would like this sorted before I take it on the ferry again.

 

[Rightboy91]

A rear caliper foot/hand brake is self adjusting.

The best way to see the lever working on the caliper is get someone to pull on the handbrake lever in the car and have a look to see what's happening on the rear of the caliper with the lever. With the handbrake off, is the caliper lever returning to the off position?

If they're any use, a couple of videos

rear brake discs and pads, Vectra C 1.9 CDTi

How to replace rear brake discs on OPEL VECTRA

Hi, thank you I will have a look at those video's.
Yes the return tension thing on the rear of the caliper operates normally.
Is it true these self adjusting cables can't be adjusted and if they are seized they must be replaced ? I read somewhere that people have adjusted these manually thoguh I don't know if that is accurate.
I replaced calipers , discs and pads a few weeks prior to this and everything was fine, no wheels locking up and no overheating until removing and then re attaching the hand brake cable.
It was only after I took off the handbrake cable because I wanted to make it's handbrake tighter (although it passed MOT with the way it was) it was only after putting the handbrake cable back on the caliper that the wheel locks up and overheats the brakes. when the cable is attached the handbrake works but the wheel locks up.

So the handbrake does actually work but I have left it unattached (so now no handbrake on that side operating atm ) because it locks up that wheel /brakes on that side when it is attached,

When I got ferry to Isle of Wight I was worried while on the boat that my car would roll even though I used wheel chocks, I am going again to the isle of wight on another holiday soon so I would like this sorted before I take it on the ferry again.

 

[Mottie]

There is more than likely some kind of auto adjusting mechanism on the handbrake lever. I suspect that when you had the cables disconnected from the caliper, it overcompensated and needs to be released so that you can refit the cable. Once that is done I think you can pull the lever repeatedly to get the correct adjustment. A couple of clear photos of where the cable connects to the lever may help us.

 

[DIYspanner]

With a combined foot/hand brake caliper, the piston gradually pushes out as the pads wear but the piston is also on a screw spindle that operates the handbrake. Depends on what part is seized as to the course of action.

This caliper is a VW but will give you an idea of the internals.

 

[Rightboy91]

With a combined foot/hand brake caliper, the piston gradually pushes out as the pads wear but the piston is also on a screw spindle that operates the handbrake. Depends on what part is seized as to the course of action.

This caliper is a VW but will give you an idea of the internals.

Thank you for the advice and caliper photo.
The pads are not worn out they were replaced at the end of September last year, all was 100 % fine before I took out the handbrake cable from the hole it goes into on the caliper.
I assume the cable even needs adjusting ( if possible on these self adjusting intetgral caliper/handbrake type setup ) or replacing. It does hold the car firm when the handbrake is connected so not sure if it needs changing, but because when attached it locks up the wheel maybe it does ?

 

[Rightboy91]

There is more than likely some kind of auto adjusting mechanism on the handbrake lever. I suspect that when you had the cables disconnected from the caliper, it overcompensated and needs to be released so that you can refit the cable. Once that is done I think you can pull the lever repeatedly to get the correct adjustment. A couple of clear photos of where the cable connects to the lever may help us.

Hi
Would I likely need to remove the centre console to check for that ? ( apparently on these car's you need to remove entire console to gain access to hand brake components.
I will certainly take some photo's and upload to here , I hope you are right and that is all it is

 

[Burnerman]

Lets talk handbrake cables. Officially they are called ‘Bowden cables’.
There is one cable per wheel, and they join at the handbrake lever in the middle of the car at a device called a compensator - which allows an even pull on each wheel.
The cable consists of an inner wire and an outer sheath, and occasionally the inner sticks inside the outer....that’s what I meant in my post earlier.
So, with the cable disconnected at the caliper, pull the handbrake lever on and then release it.....the inner wire should slide easily. If you have to pull the inner wire back, there’s a problem.
John

 

[Rightboy91]

Lets talk handbrake cables. Officially they are called ‘Bowden cables’.
There is one cable per wheel, and they join at the handbrake lever in the middle of the car at a device called a compensator - which allows an even pull on each wheel.
The cable consists of an inner wire and an outer sheath, and occasionally the inner sticks inside the outer....that’s what I meant in my post earlier.
So, with the cable disconnected at the caliper, pull the handbrake lever on and then release it.....the inner wire should slide easily. If you have to pull the inner wire back, there’s a problem.
John

Hi friend
You say there is one handbrake cable per each wheel, you don't mean the fron't as well do you as I'm sure it's onl the rear wheels with HC attached to them ?
Yes I think I know what metal wire you mean, it slides in and out of the end of the HCable , I will try this tomorrow hopefully and do a vidoe and upload it here.

About this power hesitation, I have been driving this car for just over 3 years as of last week and drove over 60,000 miles, engine itself never let me down (had new flywheel + clutch a year after I bought it but thats not the engine itself ) and it has always had a lot of power, never hesitated. This is my opinion is no coincidence, I was working right near MAF sensor and it's wiring and after putting it together It is sluggish usualoy in second and thrid for a few seconds but picks up a few seconds after having my foot down it's fine until going back up a hill for example in 2nd or 3rd.
Also it wouldn't accelerate past a certain speed on motorway earlier for a while until it finally did. its usually fine driving at steady speed on carriageways etc

I did remove the driver side engine mount and I jacked up the engine with block of wood under sump, I am wondering could the engine mount be causing this hesitation issue if it isnt fitted right/tight enough ? what about if when I jacked up the engine from under the sump if I went to high with the jack and stretched wiring on engine somewhere that might be causing this issue ?

The engine light is not on but the car has not had the engine light bulb illuminated since I had the car, I think the bulb has blown as even with ignition on the eml warning light cannot be seen