Vailliant Ecotec 824 Question.....

[sjromaine]

Hi All,

Been reading threads here and learnt a lot about my Ecotect Plus 824 boiler. Issue is this....

Removed a couple of rads to take down a partition wall. Fell over onto one of the remaining radiator upstands! Seems I cracked a join under the floor as well as my arse when I landed on it. Didn't realise this at first. Got low pressure F22 and used filler loop (braided hose) to top up to 1.8 bar. Dropped to 0.7 bar overnight. Now found cracked pipe under floor. Water pooling but not an emergency issue as loads of space to drain away. Have now turned off boiler as it can't maintain pressure and I was worried about leaving it on. Can manage a couple of days with no heating or hot water as boiler didn't like just being asked for hot water with central heating turned off (gave me a F75 code as no pressure change deteced - understandable I guess) Plan to reconfigure rads on Wednesday or at very least fix pipe issue with a cut and end stop solution. Question is on refilling. Obviously system will have drained out more or less completely. can I just turn on boiler and then use braided hose filling loop followed by extensive rad bleeding exercise or do I need to refill somehow BEFORE firing up the boiler. Is there any difference between using the filler loop describe and using the grey knobs under the boiler. My reading is that they can be a bit fragile and I'd rather not use them if I don't have to.

Thanks in advance for your advice.....

Simon

 

[Agile]

Never fire a boiler with no water pressure in it.

To help to disperse and eject air it can help to switch rapidly between CH and DHW at say five second intervals.

Until the air is dispersed its somewhat better to turn off the gas until you have got most of the air out of the boiler.

Tony

 

[The831Bunny]

Never fire a boiler with no water pressure in it.

To help to disperse and eject air it can help to switch rapidly between CH and DHW at say five second intervals.

Until the air is dispersed its somewhat better to turn off the gas until you have got most of the air out of the boiler.

Tony

Turning the boiler between DHW and Heating every 5 seconds will do nothing but keep the boiler in DHW mode. Best to use the purge program if you know how to do that. P.0 will run the pump only round the HW and then the Htg circuits without heating the boiler, pausing at intervals to let the air escape via the auto air vent in the boiler. Best to check your installation book for the instructions on how to do this OP.

 

[The831Bunny]

Hi All,

Been reading threads here and learnt a lot about my Ecotect Plus 824 boiler. Issue is this....

Removed a couple of rads to take down a partition wall. Fell over onto one of the remaining radiator upstands! Seems I cracked a join under the floor as well as my arse when I landed on it. Didn't realise this at first. Got low pressure F22 and used filler loop (braided hose) to top up to 1.8 bar. Dropped to 0.7 bar overnight. Now found cracked pipe under floor. Water pooling but not an emergency issue as loads of space to drain away. Have now turned off boiler as it can't maintain pressure and I was worried about leaving it on. Can manage a couple of days with no heating or hot water as boiler didn't like just being asked for hot water with central heating turned off (gave me a F75 code as no pressure change deteced - understandable I guess) Plan to reconfigure rads on Wednesday or at very least fix pipe issue with a cut and end stop solution. Question is on refilling. Obviously system will have drained out more or less completely. can I just turn on boiler and then use braided hose filling loop followed by extensive rad bleeding exercise or do I need to refill somehow BEFORE firing up the boiler. Is there any difference between using the filler loop describe and using the grey knobs under the boiler. My reading is that they can be a bit fragile and I'd rather not use them if I don't have to.

Thanks in advance for your advice.....

Simon

No problem filling the boiler and system with the power off. Vent the highest rads in the system of air first. If the boiler is over 4 years old the pressure gauge on the bottom right of the fascia will show the pressure with power off. If it's the newer ecoTEC then the pressure display is shown in the digital display and you DO need the power on for that to display.

 

[Doggit]

The grey knobs below the boiler should have a flexible braided loop running between them. Once the leak has been dealt with, open the knobs till you get to about 1.5 bar, and then close them. Fire up the boiler on a minimum heat setting, and it will start to fill the rads. Do the running around bit to get rid of the air, and running back to the boiler to fill it as the pressure drops. How do you normally put inhibitor into the system.

 

[Bunnyman]

U could fill it now an isolate on flow and return isolators and use the hot water then until ur ready to mend the leak , then open the isolators and fill the heating system

 

[Doggit]

Interesting trick, I'll have to explore that idea.

 

[Bunnyman]

Its not a trick, installers do it a lot if system work or leakage being attended to common practise

 

[Agile]

Its not a trick, installers do it a lot if system work or leakage being attended to common practise

I have always done that.

But I am aware that many installers think that it will damage the boiler.

Many makers also say that too.

But I have never had any problem when I have done it myself.

 

[DP]

Many makers also say that too.

Some boilers you cannot isolate the iso valves and use boiler for hot water.
Pray tell where the residual heat will go at the end of HW demand when there is no internal bypass?

Care to name any installer that "think that it will damage the boiler."

 

[Steelmasons]

Very few installers do a good job or actually know what they are doing.....i know everything there is to know because I am the best this industry has to offer , I'm certainly the UK's top 1.

Tony Glazier.