valve

[Crossfred]

Hi everyone,

Especially to the people discussing the blue Switchmaster Midi valve VA1.
I have the same problem with a failed actuator, but before I start pulling everything apart, is there anyone out there who can point me towards a new/second hand unit ? I know it is nearly a year on but thought I would give it a shot. Here's hoping.

 

[ollski]

You may occasionally get one off ebay though a second hand part which is rubbish in the first place may well be a false economy.

 

[Crossfred]

Hi Ollski,

Many thanks for your prompt response. I have had a stroke of luck, my brother made a warrenty claim, back in 1997, on a two year old unit because of a faulty plastic D drive. He was supplied a complete brand new unit, so he still has the original. Hopefully all we have to do is swap my good drive into his unit. My water valve is still working well, can turn with fingers. However, I think Iwill look long term to changing for a more modern product. Any ideas as to the most compatable make to suit wiring and minimal pipework?

 

[geoff@cetltd]

Hi All

Can anyone advise on where to get a replacement "Switchmaster Midi Valve Actuator"? or recommend a replacement model (something a diy person can install).

This is the model I currently have which needs replacing but I seem to be getting no where.

Stylus

If it's NOT the synchron motor gone, I can repir it

 

[ChrisR]

Still got some - somewhere!

 

[geoff@cetltd]

put one aside for me

I repaired my parents' one a few years ago, it might not last al that long

 

[Ekkar]

I've just (literally 5 mins ago - and what a nightmare) managed to plumb in the Drayton valve - now looking at the wiring and assume it follows the same principle as Ollski stated as detailed below for a Honeywell.

S/M h/well
white----------------->grey
blue------------------>blue
Red &orange-------->orange
yellow---------------->white

However, the red and orange go to two seperate terminals blocks the switchmaster red connect to a yellow (from somewhere !!), and the orange goes to a blue (again from somewhere). Do I wire:-

New Drayton orange to a combined terminal of blue and yellow.
New Drayton orange to blue
New Drayton orange to yellow

As you may guess I'm no wiring expert and the wiring diagram supplied with the valve I have filed under "pretty" !!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks.

 

[ChrisR]

The switchmaster red and orange wires are for wot I rote above.
The other wires will go to the pump, boiler and cylinder stat.
Connect them together.

 

[Ekkar]

Thanks Chris for your prompt reply - works a treat.

Thanks

 

[ahcox]

I've just (literally 5 mins ago - and what a nightmare) managed to plumb in the Drayton valve - now looking at the wiring and assume it follows the same principle as Ollski stated as detailed below for a Honeywell.

Hi Ekkar,

just a quick question: did that plumbing involve draining the entire central heating system? I had a plumber come and look at my valve/switchmaster and he said draining the lot would be required and I'd be looking at a £400+ bill. I backed off and am turning the valve by hand for now, but don't fancy keeping that up all winter.

Best,
Andrew

 

[ChrisR]

Where in London?
I'll pop round this afternoon and do it for £399.
Anywhere in London, come to that!

 

[ahcox]

Where in London?
I'll pop round this afternoon and do it for £399.
Anywhere in London, come to that!

But seriously...

I know this is a DIY forum and I came here looking for info on a straight swap for my VA1. Since that doesn't seem to be possible and I have no idea about plumbing, can you give me an idea of whether what this guy was telling me was true (need to empty entire system, biggish expensive job)?

Thanks,
Andrew

 

[ChrisR]

Yes the pipework has to be changed. Half a day should cover it if access is OK. It does need some space around it to work in.
Yes you have to drain below the point of the valve. Some old systems are pigs to refill, but most are ok.
Even at the full retail of about £95 for the valve, he's pushing it a bit!

 

[Ekkar]

The Drayton valve ended up requiring shorter pipes to it than my existing Switchmast VA1 valve - so I drained the system (does take quite a while), removed the valve, removed old olives and nuts, cut back two pipes (bent the third into position - I know but it worked) and then reattached new valve with new nuts and olives.

Cost me £52 for Drayton valve and 4 hrs work

PS need a good pipe cutter.

 

[ahcox]

Ekkar & ChrisR,

thanks very much for this info. Now I know what is involved.

Best,
Andrew