Visqueen Walls onto floor?

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Hi guys, just after a bit of advice, I've been converting old wash-house into dining area. At the moment all of the internal shed/wash house structures have been knocked down, I'm working with a basic square room now, windows fitted on one side, door fitted on one side, fitting French doors on the rear of the building. Next step is to fully vis-queen the walls, batten them off, kingspan/celotex them out, plasterboard and finally skim..

I've got a few questions in regards to vis-queen for damp proofing the walls...

I've got the vis-queen on the main wall at the moment, this wall has another shed attached to it, so no real danger of damp through this. The vis queen at the moment has roughly 2m lap on the bottom (I originally planned on ripping up the old concrete floor, vis-queening down, and re-laying the floor to the correct level... but the level is good, and at the right height. Didn't want to rip up a couple of tonne of concrete to re-lay a couple of tonne again... So I'm planning on painting it with a bitumen based DP paint to prevent any damp as laminate flooring will be laid on this (although i already had this in the shed for 3 years and have never had any signs of mould, sweating etc...) but i want it as a precaution.

My only concern, with this method.. I'm going to be having the walls damp-proofed with vis-queen and fully covered. and the floor painted with bitumen paint.. so both are damp proofed, but I would be more comfortable if i could get the vis-queen laying on top of the bitumen.. I could lay it down loosely on top, and lay flooring over this. but I was wanting a more permanent solution.
Is there an adhesive available which will give the damp proofing protection the bitumen offers, but will also adhere the vis-queen to the concrete, so it creates a continuous level of protection?

and also. what kind of ventilation is required behind the vis-queen. IE what spacing will be required for air bricks at the back of the vis-queen? every 1ft, 2ft, 3ft etc?
 
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Interested in the reply to your question and also for people to comment on your method of visqueen, batten, celotex then plasterboard. I read something different every day that seems to contradict my thinking...... My thoughts currently are old brick wall, celotex, visqueen, plasterboard. I notice you intend to ventilate behind your visqueen. I do not have the luxury of that.
 
One thought, how are you going to deal with any moisture that runs down the polythene towards the floor?

Normally the wall membrane would go behind the floor membrane to deal with this, but you can't do that with your painted floor method.

You dont need air bricks
 
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I've never had a lot of moisture on these walls to be honest, only showed slight damp. Didn't think the moisture would actually run down to the floor. The brickwork has been originally constructed first, and concrete poured in afterwards, there is a visible 2mm gap between the concrete and the wall from 60 years of ground movement. Would this suffice to prevent any slight run off?
 

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