Vokera leaking divert valve

[Handless]

Hi
First posting here and I like what I see on this site and wonder if anyone can advise me a problem I have.
Vokera linea 28 whch has a small leak but otherwise works fine. I have traced the leak to water dripping from the diverter pin and the valve body. I could see this was where the leak is after I removed the clip that secures the diverter motor to the valve. The water was dripping from the black tube where the pin and motor are.
Would replacing the seal kit (T0063) and new pin (6887) be within the capabilities of a resonably proficient DIY'er? If so, I would assume i need to drain down system and would this be done using the PRV?
Is there anything else I would need to watch out for and take into consideration?
I would appreciate any advice anyone could give me before I start this repair?

All the best for 2011 for everyone who reads this.

Cheers, Bren

 

[Agile]

Better NOT to drain from the PRV!

You will need a suitable tool to fit the new gland.

Its reasonably easy but dont be surprised if the filling loop is blocked. Check that it does fill before you drain it.

Tony

 

[scatmanjohn]

You will be lucky to get the seal out of the diverter housing.

I have only managed it once out of maybe 50.

Usually requires a whole new front section of the diverter + seal kit.

If you want to try it you will need a 14mm socket and a bit of luck.

You need to do it soon as it will end up leaking into the diverter motor.

 

[Handless]

Hi
Thanks for both your comments. Would I be better bitting the bullet and buying the complete diverter valve complete (2915) which seems to vary between £140 to £200? Would replacing the complete valve be better?
This link shows the valve. http://www.heatingreplacementspares...geNum=1&PageSize=15&searchtype=2&partnum=2915

Better NOT to drain from the PRV!
Tony

What is the correct way to drain system?

Any more advice you can give?

Cheers.

 

[DP]

My preference is to drain via the PRV. Reason for that is, it is a safety component designed to lift at 3 bar. Have in past been to boilers that have not been looked at for a long time. On some of these, system pressure was well above 3 bar.

If the PRV does leak, cheap enough to replace. Stock item for me.

Never had a blocked pipe on a filling loop on this boiler.

Might be a good idea to clean the spindle before assembly. Beware of flooding the PCB.

 

[scatmanjohn]

No. You don't need all that.

Just a service kit and a diverter front section will do the job.

 

[Handless]

SMJ
Do you feel if I just replace the pin, front cover and seal kit this should be enough? If so, I'll order up parts tomorrow.

Cheers

 

[Terrywookfit]

That is all you need.
The pin is not part of the service kit.
I have always just cleaned the deposits off with a green scouring pad.
Beware of water when fitting service kit. Protect PCB.

 

[Maboza-Ritchy]

Terry
Thanks for this and will I still need to drain boiler to do this work?

 

[Terrywookfit]

Yes.

 

[DP]

Maboza, the questions you are asking seem to suggest you could end up making this task a lot more expensive for yourself. If you are dithering, might be an idea to have the job done by a gas safe installer who services boilers.

 

[scatmanjohn]

The pin is not part of the service kit.

It is.

The excel kit has no pin.