wall insulation options

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Hi all,I live in a 1920's solid brick constructed house.I wish to insulate a bedroom wall but only have 55mm from the brick to my window facing.What would you suggest the way to achive a good result .Also what is the best way to avoid condensation .

Many Thanks

Kev
 
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Celotex or kingspan is sold in varying thicknesses and is also sold ready bonded to a sheet of plasterboard. So it is just a case of finding the most suitable. Obviously the thicker the better as this will prevent the dreaded condensation problems.

40mm of foam board insulation (+plasterboard) is usually enough for a standard 9" solid wall.

A trusted way of fixing these boards is to timber batten the wall and then fix the boards to the battens.

Alternatively you can dry foam fix the sheets straight to the masonry.

Use insulation boards with a foil vapor barrier.
 
With only 55mm, your safe options are limited. IF you believe the claims for Reflectatherm foil, a simple 20mm sealed reflective cavity will drop the wall's U-value from over 3 to under 1. However, 40mm insulation in Kingspan will drop the U-value to under 0.5 but Kingspan recommend mounting K18 on battens for solid walls, which takes up more space.

Now for another leap of faith - foil backed plasterboard comes with a low-emissivity metallised polyester foil backing. It used to be talked about for insulation but no claims are made these days. :confused:

You'll need to use insulating board for window reveals either way to prevent condensation ('cos you've made the bricks colder).

Apparently, you'll save nearly 70% of heat lost through walls with the reflective cavity but just another 15% with Kingspan. Cost of foil backed plasterboard about £1.60/sqm. Cost of 52.5mm Kingspan (40mm insulation + 12.5 plasterboard) about £12/sqm.
 
You'll need to use insulating board for window reveals either way to prevent condensation ('cos you've made the bricks colder).

Where exactly would the condensation form if he didn't use insulated boards?
 
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Where exactly would the condensation form if he didn't use insulated boards?
Any reduction of heat loss through the walls will make the bricks colder and more likely to cause condensation in reveals.

I am looking for someone to explain why using foil backed plasterboard for modest insulation is bo11ox. :confused:

Proctor Group claim an R-value of 0.644 for a sealed reflective cavity using their Reflectatherm low emissivity foil.


Why should that product be SO much better than metallised foil backing on plasterboard? Even if you use their permeable Reflectashield vented cavity R-value of 0.469, you still get a U-value less than 1.2, saving over 60% of the heat loss.

Another product, Solartex Reflectaboard, claims an R-value of 0.8 for the reflective cavity and plasterboard together - slightly more than Reflectatherm cavity and plasterboard. So a reflective cavity still looks promising.
 
We may be talking at cross purposes. It is only necessary to insulate window reveals in insulated walls. If you are just insulating one wall and the window is in another wall, you can leave the window reveal alone.

Condensation is most likely to occur on the window and on exterior walls behind large furniture. Avoid heavy, lined curtains over single-glazed windows (unless you keep windows open in cold weather). Ensure bedroom ventilators or windows are open at night. 1920s houses often had ventilators or chimneys in every room. Unless you fully insulate ALL the walls and windows, you should not block the original ventilation. With adequate ventilation, the warmer you keep the room, the less likely you are to get condensation.

Any existing vapour barrier on the wall (e.g. vinyl wallpaper or oil-based paint) could cause problems if you insulate over it. If there is any hint of damp in the plaster, I would remove it and put up a cement render (e.g. Soundcoat) and use treated battens. Given your depth restriction, I suggest 50x19mm vertical battens on the wall at 600mm centres with battens at top and bottom. Seal the joins between battens to prevent water vapour getting into the cavities then put up foil backed plasterboard. It looks like just the battens and plasterboard foil could save you 70% of the heat lost through the uninsulated wall.

How you finish the wall is up to you. You can skim with plaster or just fill, prime and seal the plasterboard. You still have the depth to put up 2 layers of 12.5mm plasterboard rather than skimming. The 2nd layer could be tapered edge, paper-backed plasterboard, which you offset by 600mm (one batten) from the 1st layer. Two layers of plasterboard will sound more substantial than one but won't really improve the insulation.

You can place large items of furniture against the insulated wall with much less risk of condensation and mould.
 
Thanks everyone for your help,you have given me a few options,greatly appreciated

Kev
 

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