Couldn't agree more with Zampa, previous owner had - some lining, some wood chip - they had even power sanded some of the walls (dont do this some stuff has asbestos) but it was still awful. Tried removal - my stuff could be removed with hot air gun but it takes forever, not heard any really good news about strippers or special smoothing paint - in the end skimmed walls/ceiling with plaster - problem solved.
Couldn't agree more with Zampa, previous owner had - some lining, some wood chip - they had even power sanded some of the walls (dont do this some stuff has asbestos) but it was still awful. Tried removal - my stuff could be removed with hot air gun but it takes forever, not heard any really good news about strippers or special smoothing paint -
in the end skimmed walls/ceiling with plaster - problem solved.
For ceilings, if they're really bad, you could consider tacking up new plasterboard then tape & skim.
I do a lot of this for folk getting rid of artex and isn't nearly as hard/expensive as you may think - and definitely quicker. Also if you put up coving the same time you don't have to tape the ceiling/wall joint.
Totally agree with idea of plasterboard over, tapered edge (never square edge), screws not nails, stagger joints, self adhesive scrim tape, special filler for joints - no plastering.
Check old ceiling reasonably flat before doing anything, artex is used to hide lots of sins, worst situation is if celing bowed. Sometimes battons can be run along joists before over boarding (given ceiling height etc.) other times there is no choice but to fetch the old ceiling down (can still use taper edge board and tape to replace - no need to plaster)
Aye, if ceiling is bowed, check out the existing joists and strap up CLS crossways - 100mm screws, decent cordless - nae probs. This way you can set the strapping to metric spacing so any joins have a good bit of meat to screw into
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