Water not heating up on redring expressions 500?

[sumboyman]

The hot water from my Redrig has stopped. The water still flows but stone cold. The Overheat light is Not on and the other indicator light which should be on when shower set to hot water is also working but there's just no hot water. The pressure from the cold water coming out seems fine too.

Any suggestions of what it might be and whether its fixable would be appreciated?

Im not that handy but I did buy a multimeter last year when I replaced the solenoid coil (I think thats what it was called!) and I managed that.

Stevo

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It might be that the heating element has failed. Clearly it's not a supply problem, as the solenoid is working.

With the power off you could remove the cover and check the resistance of the heater. If it isn't open circuit then work backwards - check the thermal cutout, the switch etc. Unless it's the sort of shower with PCBs and relays.

It may be fixable, or it may not - not all showers can have the heater can replaced in situ, spares might not be available, or might be £stupid. How old it is?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Is the water stone cold all the time or on occasion lukewarm does the unit have a pressure control? as it may need turning down a little, some redring models have the control marked as "C" this is normally turned anti-clockwise.

 

[sumboyman]

I've checked it again and the dial for heat setting runs from 1 - 10. I can turn it to 4 before the water cuts out and from about 3-4 its ever so slightly luke warm. I had not noticed that before.

Does that make it more likely its a pressure thing rather than a heating element?

I will take a proper look at it over the weekend when I have some more time after work. these things can probably be done very quickly by you but its slow going with my non-knowledge.

With testing resistance is it that I'm looking for a level of resistance in ohms on the multimeter? And if the component is not working then there will not be resistance/a reading of 0 ohms??

Its like GCSE physics but that was a long time ago!

Thanks so much for your advice, much appreciated.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You will be testing for resistance in ohms.
Sounds like you have a faulty thermal cut-out.

 

[sumboyman]

You will be testing for resistance in ohms.
Sounds like you have a faulty thermal cut-out.

Even if the overheat light isn't on?

 

[seco services]

You will be testing for resistance in ohms.
Sounds like you have a faulty thermal cut-out.

Even if the overheat light isn't on?

A thermal cutout is tested for continuity not resistance/ohms.
If the overheat neon is not on the tco is working.

Have you tested the flow stabiliser valve. Common failure on these.

 

[sumboyman]

Okay so in summary it unlikely to be:

1) thermal cutout - tested on the continuity setting of the multimeter - but less likely as overheat light not on
2) heating element - but unlikely due to getting lukewarm water

Correct?

And it is most likely to be could/is likely to be the flow stabiliser valve.[/b]

Sorry but how would I go about testing this component to confirm whether this is the problem? Once I know I'll have a go over the weekend and report back.

Thanks again for your help - I appreciate your expertise!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

A thermal cutout is tested for continuity not resistance/ohms.

and continuity is measured in?
and resistance equals?
and no resistance equals?

 

[sumboyman]

Okay - I have tested the Thermal Cut Out for resitance/continuity - when set to the latter I got a beep when touching the two terminals which means its working I think.

I took out the flow valve - there was nothing obviously wrong with it. I'm guessing the only way to see if that's the problem would be to buy one and replace it?

Cheers

 

[sumboyman]

Right I have replaced the flow valve and there may have been a slight improvement in the temperature but its still at best lukewarm rather than anything close to hot, even when i turn the heat up as far as it goes (after a certain point it seems to return to full on cold).

Logic would therefore suggest its the Thermal Cut out but it tested fine for continuity and the overheat light isnt on.

Is it worth buying one of these and trying this too or is there anything else which it is likely to be or should I cut my losses?

Thank you again for any help you can offer - I appreciate I have asked a lot of questions and am greatful for any final help you could offer.

Thanks

Steven

 

[RF Lighting]

There are normally two elements in parallell to heat the water. It sounds like one of them has gone to element heaven.

 

[sumboyman]

Really? Oh no - I felt sure after the earlier comments and advice it was fixable but I guess it makes sense (

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If the heater can is replaceable in-situ, and if a spare can be obtained, it is fixable.

 

[sumboyman]

Thanks everyone for all your advice - Im afraid that a new element is likely to cost as much as a cheap replacement.

Defeated this time but ever mind - thanks again!