WC CISTERN

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Hello all,

Hope someone can advise...

I am looking to replace my current close-coupled cistern with a new one from Wickes. The Wickes one is a push-button top one with what looks like a built in overflow [which I assume feeds back into the pan rather than the current one which has an overflow pipe]

Assuming the sizing is the same [rear of pan doesn't protrude], do these cisterns all fit in a similar fashion? What I mean is do they all have the rubber doughnut into which the outlet pipe [from the cistern] is fitted with the same type metal plate and bolts?

Reason I ask is that I cannot find any fitting instructions for the new Wickes one without purchasing it.

Sorry if I haven't explained it very well....
 
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they don't all have the metal plate.
most have the bolts securing the cistern to pan by the bolts going through the cistern base.
they still have the do-nut washer.
 
Thanks people.

Cistern and pan are made by SHIRES. Had it for ages. Would have to dig the original instructions out to see if there is a model number.

The current pan has two bolt holes. The cistern sits on top in the doughnut and the metal plate which the doughnut fits into is secured through the pan via the tightened bolts. The outlet from the cistern then feeds through the doughnut and plate hole into the pan 'inlet'.

I am assuming that the new cistern will have a similar set-up and I can just swap them. Hence the query.
 
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dextrous...not buying a new pan merely replacing the current cistern.
 
if your hoping on just swopping the cistern but keeping your old pan
forget it.
 
they won't match swopping them about. been tried before and they useally leak or the holes don't match up etc.
 
The chance of it stitting exactly on the pan at the correct distance from the wall without you having to put in packing timbers behind it (or the opposite effect) are limited.

As to whether it uses a metal plate or screw-through can only be determined by inspecting inside the cistern within the shop - if there is a display one, then see if you can remove the lid, or if it is on the shelf, remove part of the packaging to help you determine.
 
Thanks to all.

The potential gap behind the cistern isn't an issue as I am re-doing the floor and can move the toilet back or forward when I do so.

I appreciate the advice about the leaks and finding they don't match up.

Better to buy a whole new toilet I suppose.

:(((
 
It's your gamble. You could try just the cistern first, and if it doesn't work, go back and buy the associated pan. Although this will potentially be more costly than getting the toilet-to-go if the cistern alone doesn't work.
 
It is a pity that someone hasn't invented a push button conversion kit for any cistern which would involve a new flush mechanism and using the hole from where the handle emanates. Guess the hole wouldn't be big enough :confused:
 
they do the opella variflush valve does that fitting existing pull flush and syphons.
 

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