What fuse for WarmUp underfloor heating system?

I have got it simply to dry the floor, the problem is down to what the general central heating is set at. The house has eTRV's and a room thermostat in the hall which leads to wet room. The rest of the house is on a programmed heat, and it is possible for the house to be too hot for the under floor heating to cut in, so some times after a shower the floor does not dry, but most times the heating does come on so floor does dry, however using tiles directly on the heater the time to warm up is quite long, around an hour and a half from cold, half an hour if simply cooled by shower water. The sculptured tiles hold the water, hind sight they should be smooth, so if I use my feet after a shower to sweep the water into shower bowl then it will take around an hour and a half to dry, use a mop and around an hour to dry, simply leave and around 3 hours to dry.

Now next room has quarry tiles, it is the kitchen and originally there was a solid fuel cooker, now if we have a problem with washing machine and have to remove the filter, so the floor is awash with water, we can sweep the water out of the back door, and the tiles are dry again in half an hour with no under floor heating. I am sure the water goes through the tiles, so would not want that for a wet room, but it does point out that water proof membranes and under floor heating is not always the answer. The shower tray in wet room is flush with floor so once laid you can't easily see where the tray is unless pointed out, now with a proud tray and curtain so only wet on the floor is from your feet, then it may dry quicker, but our need was for wheel chair access so everything flush.

We also made a mistake with the fall to shower tray, we forgot the wheel chair has a rigid frame, at least the one for use in wet room is, and the fall causes only three wheels to be in contact with the floor, which means it is not as stable as it should be, not really our fault wheel chair did not arrive until after wet room finished. Also the loo is too close to wall by 1" did not have wheel chair and did not realise idea is for wheel chair to straddle the loo.

If it was not for wheel chair use, having the floor wet would not matter, but rubber tyres on tiled wet floor just don't grip.

As to fuse well I am sure mine is supplied from the general RCD after the consumer unit was changed during a rewire, and it has never tripped other than when testing with RCD tester. So a double pole isolator if from a low amp RCBO/MCB or a RCD FCU if the supply is either not low amp or already RCD protected will likely work OK. However it's down to person inspecting and testing and what he wants not any one on here.

I did my own testing and inspecting and sent the form to the LABC who issued the completion certificate, they did not like me doing the inspection and testing, but son was insisting if they got some one else to do it, then they would need to be higher qualified than me, and then they allowed me to do it. But I assume you don't have a degree in electrical engineering so likely the LABC will insist some one else tests it. They could be reasonable and pass it even if not 100% or they could be a jobs worth who will pick up on slightest point.

The slightest point being manufacturer says it needs a dedicated circuit in respect to RCD protection.
 
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Hello folks, I have just finished installing a WarmUp DWS600 loose wire system in my bathroom.
This electrical work in a bathroom is notifiable. I hope that you raised a building notice with the LABC before you started work?.
They will want to inspect AS YOU GO ALONG, not when its all done and tiled over.
 
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The slightest point being manufacturer says it needs a dedicated circuit in respect to RCD protection.
Why does it?
I did wonder about this, I would guess it has a high earth leakage! Although nothing in the rest of the instructions points to that, until one has tested one would not know, this is where DIY fitting has a problem, I know when I fitted it myself I did many tests for insulations and for continuity as the job progressed after each bit of tiling I would test, as the builder before me had destroyed the first one meaning all tiles had to be lifted and relaid so you clearly need to test before any glue or cement has had time to harden. So I can say mine did not have any recordable earth leakage. It has been down over 10 years and less than 6 months ago we had a re-wire of most of the house and a new metal consumer unit, and all existing circuits were retested and again no earth leakage.

So why does the manufacturer give a limit to the wattage of under floor heating fed from one RCD, it would be interesting to know the readings got when it was tested, but how many DIY installers have a 500 volt insulation tester? Oddly it's the only one of the test instruments still working which I have, and the oldest.
 
Looking at the installation manual it says "The electrician must install a dedicated 30 milliamp RCD or use an existing RCD." which is probably just their way of saying this must be protected by an RCD.
 

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