Wiring up a Salus RT300RF and Worcester Greenstar Ri 12

[gunnag]

My heating and hot water setup uses a Worcester Greenstar Ri 12 boiler together with a gravity hot water tank with thermostat, a Siemens 3 port mid position valve/actuator, a Potterton EP2 programmer and a Drayton RTS1 thermostat.

The thermostat is placed directly above one of the radiators in the lounge so not an ideal location. In its place I have bought a Salus RT300RF thermostat which I want to mount in a better position but need some advise on how to wire it up.

My initial thoughs were that I could simply wire the reciever using the existing thermostat connections. However this doesnt seem possible since the existing wiring has live/neutral switched on & off by the programmer and the new received needs a permanant live connection.

My current thinking is that I could mount the RT300RF receiver somewhere near the boiler or wiring centre. I guess that I would need to find a permanant live/neutral to power the device and also tap into the 'boiler call' wire. I note also that the old thermostat has a single yellow boiler call wire whereas the new base unit uses the no/com type connection.

I have added some pics of the wiring and hope someone can advise on how to wire up the Salus RT300RF base unit.

All info welcome!

Boiler wiring:-

Wiring Centre:-

Thermostat wiring:-

Potterton EP2 wiring:-

 

[Echo the husky]

Oh my goodness more untidy heating wiring.

What on earth is going on here? (pun intended):

My initial thoughs were that I could simply wire the reciever using the existing thermostat connections. However this doesnt seem possible since the existing wiring has live/neutral switched on & off by the programmer and the new received needs a permanant live connection.

Correct, it needs a permanent supply.

My current thinking is that I could mount the RT300RF receiver somewhere near the boiler or wiring centre. I guess that I would need to find a permanant live/neutral to power the device and also tap into the 'boiler call' wire. I note also that the old thermostat has a single yellow boiler call wire whereas the new base unit uses the no/com type connection.

Mounting it near the wiring centre is usually good, but if your heating system main isolator is by the programmer rather than your wiring centre it is unlikely there will be a permanent live at the wiring centre.

If there isn't the easiest option is to wire it in at the programmers position as permanent live and neutral is present there. Then disconnect the wire in terminal 4 of the programmer and connect it to the NO terminal in the Salus. Connect the COM terminal in the Salus to terminal 4 of the programmer. You should use a 5 core flex to do this, connect the earth wire at the programmer end, and put the earth wire in a connector block safely out of the way at the Salus end

You will then need to find what cable at the 'wiring centre' is going to the old room thermostat, and fully disconnect it as it is not needed any more. you will then need to fit a wire link between the two terminals in the wiring centre where the old thermostats red and yellow wires were.

That should then function, it is quite common however for Salus products to be faulty from new so look out for that.

The wiring is generally untidy, there is exposed copper all over the shop, and conductors are not identified with appropriate sleeving. I would recommend tidying the wiring or calling an electrician to do so. Also note, those square terminals in the programmer are not designed for more than 2 wires

 

[gunnag]

Thanks for the advise, I think I'm going to get an electrician to sort it out.

 

[gunnag]

Yesterday I plucked up the courage and decided to wire in the Salus RT300RF. I decided a two phased approach was best, the first phase was to tidy up the existing wiring and make sure it all still worked. The second phase was to wire in the new base unit.

In the first phase I decided to replace the existing single patress with a double one. I also used connector blocks to join multiple wires and then have a single wire going to the programmer terminal. I tidied up the earth wires and also added an earth to the patress which was previously missing. I also bought some zip tie labels so I now know what each wire is for. This all worked and the system operated as before so I progressed to phase two.

I decided to mount the Salus base unit above the programmer this made wiring the live/neutral easy as well as connecting the No/Com terminals to the programmer. I then identified the old thermostat wiring mainly by studying Y plan wiring diagrams, disconnecting wires and seeing if the thermostat was not operational. With the old thermostat wiring identified it was then disconnected and the link between the red and yellow added. I have also added labels to the wiring centre so I know what every is for.

Anyway it all works now so thanks for some great advise.

 

[Echo the husky]

Good work!