Wiring up my shed - power there but nothing works - why?

You might be ok getting an electrician to redo your installation with the existing SWA cable. He will protect the cable with a suitable breaker (probably 10A for 4mm). But he will need to be assured that you installed the cable properly. How deep is it? Did you use marker tape? Are you sure you are ok with a 10A supply?
 
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Staithes14, if the SWA cable is 4mm and around 45 metres rather than 50 then you may just get away with a 20A breaker protecting the circuit, but volt drop will be a little on the high side. To be on the safe side it'll have to be 16A. In any case it will be adequate for the loads you've mentioned.

Also, I'd just like to thank you for taking everyones advise seriously. A lot of people come onto this forum with similar questions and then don't like it when the answers aren't what they want to hear, resulting in petty abuse. It takes a much bigger man to realise he's made a mistake and want to put it right.
 
I do take it seriously. That's why I cam on here really. I totally respect your advice, all of you. You're the pros. I'll take your advice.

The load is mainly the pond pump at 60A and the lights. I'll only plug stuff into the sockets occasionally.

The cable depth: hmmm, well, it leaves the house and is clipped to the wall for maybe 10m, across the patio and raised decking. Then it goes below the decking, through open space, for maybe 4m, until it goes underground.

Our garden is on a steep slope, house at the top. Once it goes underground it runs underneath a water feature made of concrete, probably 60cm deep, then under a series of very big stone slabs around the edge of a pond. At this section it's not 18" deep, but has huge boulders on top of it. I was going to trench it into the garden but thought it was safer under these big rocks (they weigh maybe 1-2cwt each).

After that, it dips underneath the stream which drains the pond. Runs through the ground beneath the liner and the rocks, gravel etc, all the way down the garden. Not sure exactly how deep it is here, but well buried and completely inaccessible. It emerges close to the shed and is currently above ground for the last 12 ft or so. This part is intended to run behind a stone wall bordering the steps leading down to the shed, the last 2ft from the stair foot being buried in the soil under concrete slabs.

So, it doesn't follow a straight path. It follows the stream line. It's not marked with tape, but to a limited extent, I could retro that. The cable runs in the same trench as the water pipe from the pond pump which supplies the upper pond.
 
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If you can get a copy of the 17th edition regs have a look at 522.8.10

BS7671 said:
The location of buried cables shall be marked by cable covers or a suitable marking tape. Buried cables shall be at a sufficient depth to avoid being damaged by any reasonably foreseeable disturbance of the ground
Find a local spark who is registered and have a chat with them. It may be only a remedial amount of work is necessary to move the cable... if you are lucky. ;)
 
no need for 2nd rcd if in the house but deadly installation in any case rcd will only work when both live conuctors go through it as works on balance.

I am of the opinion that diy instructions on this board should be removed people should not be doing this type of work.....
 
So you'd rather they bludgeoned on regardless?

As this thread shows, the potentially dangerous installation wich was apparent in the first post will no be installed properly by a competant electrician. Still think this is a bad thing?
 
RCD test button will not operate if it is faulty or no power.

A registered electrician will not be able to certify your installation as is, he might decide that the cable is ok after testing it from both sides but the rest must go, otherwise this is an existing installation and the certificate you will get is a PIR which is not the one you need.

As it was mentioned before, one of the most important tests is the EFLI, if this result is not in the acceptable range, your circuit breaker will not trip and the cable will not be protected...!!! this means possible fire.
 
Hi everyone.

The pump is 60W not 60A. Just a typo!

Two sockets, and a light fitting. That's all. A 4mm cable should be OK for that according to the calculator linked to in a previous post.

And I'm not DIYing it. I have a professional spark coming on Monday to look at it. All he'll find is the cable from house to shed, unterminated, and nothing more, although the sockets and the light fitting are screwed into position unwired, where I want them.

BTW what's EFLI stand for? (flippin' acronyms!)
 
And I'm not DIYing it. I have a professional spark coming on Monday to look at it. All he'll find is the cable from house to shed, unterminated, and nothing more, although the sockets and the light fitting are screwed into position unwired, where I want them.
No point in disconnecting anything - he still won't know how the buried cable was installed so you won't get a certificate from him....


BTW what's EFLI stand for? (flippin' acronyms!)
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.3.1.htm
 
And I'm not DIYing it. I have a professional spark coming on Monday to look at it. All he'll find is the cable from house to shed, unterminated, and nothing more, although the sockets and the light fitting are screwed into position unwired, where I want them.
No point in disconnecting anything - he still won't know how the buried cable was installed so you won't get a certificate from him....

That depends on your electrician, some might, even though they shouldn't. Most will be wary about signing for work they have not completed, as they are effectively taking responsibility for the entire installation.

In any case, let us know how you got on!
 

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