Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by Brighteyes, 26 Dec 2009.
is this like a change over switch?
it could be anything, have u checked pump to see is working in hw mode. does your boiler overheat in h/w mode.
the central heating is working fine. I think the hot water is now ok. I let it run for a minute and the funny sound i was getting before has gone. I think I fixed it by releasing any excess air in the system by opening the air valve above the boiler. Letting the hot tap run with the boiler off and topping up the pressure. I'll test it again to see if it still ok and advise.
p.s. does the air valve above the boiler need to open or closed at all times?
that is called an auto air vent, keep it open at all times
Thanks for that. It's always been closed on mine.
I fixed the noise. All it was was air in the system. I did it by releasing any excess air in the system by opening the air valve above the boiler. Letting the hot tap run with the boiler off and topping up the pressure.
Now I want to insert sentinel x400 into the rads. I'm about to do that now. Any tips?
Thanks Bolton for all your help.
By the sounds of your answer mate, you haven't a clue what you're doing. If you aren't Gas Safe registered you're breaking the law. Get someone in.
Be fair, OP a little clueless but still fixed it without breaking a gas or combustion seal.
His only real error was leaving the AAV closed. which seems to affect these more as the pump's on the flow.
by the sound of it your reply your talking crap
or would you like to quote the relavent regulation
bolton 1981 you must be up for an award, i think along the lines of most patient rgi on this site
adding chemicals to you system is easy, the best place to add the chemicals for you would be from your radiators.
where you bleed the radiator to take the air out, what does that look like? can you take that radiator bleed valve out?
before you take that out turn both your radiator valves out. place a small bucket underneath your radiator open the radiator tail piece to remove possibly about 1LT of water, tighten it back and place the chemicals in your radiator from the radiator bleed valve.
you might need a 15mm compression elbow or just pour it using your own method.
How can one communicate with a moderator? drop me a maily please
Blooflame.. I am competent and I successfully change the diverter valve. Its just rip off gas men like you go round ripping people off & doing the old mechanic oooooh & head shake for what is a relatively simple job. I tried getting two people out to look at it prior to me changing it. The first guy wanted me to change the heat exchanger too wanting a total price of £350 for parts & labour, the second guy quoted £160 for parts & labour but failed to turn up, so I did the job myself and i'm proud & confident that I did a very good job. There is no gas work involved in a diverter valve replacement, its just a water diverter. I thought you would have known that being a so called plumber.
Anyway aren't these forums meant to help people not insult them
if you want to get inhibitor into a rad, do as bolton said, drain a bit of water out of the rad, then take bleed screw cap or blanking cap out of the rad. put the inhibitor into a drinks bottle with a sports cap on it, like lucozade or evian water or similar. then just squeeze it in.
Based on your experience of 2 on site and 1 on this forum, you may have just insulted 50,000 other gas men, some of whom tried to help you at the point where you weren't as competent as you now believe you are.
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