Worktop Fitting.. Wall Not Square

[T-1000]

I have a U shaped kitchen and the walls are not square (approx 10-20mm out)

I have cut the male and female joints

What I wanted to know is whether I need to make the cut outs to join the worktop first..

Or should I scribe and cut off the excess in order to get the male/female flush to the wall?

My Worktop has a depth of 616mm... However, I plan to get this down to 600mm (as I do not want too much of an overhang)

 

[Deleted member 174758]

In a U-shaped kitchen I tend to try and fit the centre piece with two female joints first and then to angle thr male ends as required to deal with any out of square walls

 

[Doggit]

Assuming the room is square is an easy thing to do for a beginner, so as Job suggest, you set up the first piece at the end of the kitchen, then place one of the side pieces in, mark the angle that you need, and then cut the male piece. As you've already cut the male joint, have you also trimmed the end off of it, or are you able to recut the male joint. Not knowing where the wall runs out, if you scribe and trim the rear of the (male I assume) worktop off, will this mess up the other end of the w

 

[T-1000]

Thanks guys.. but I've really screwed the pooch with this one

I got my calculations wrong and ordered a worktop length approximately 10 cms shorter than the space it is meant to fit into

Ordering a longer worktop is out of the question, as I already have the longest one that the company make...

As I mentioned the additional piece I need will be 10cms.. Is there anyway to make this work without being too noticeable?

If my Mrs finds out about this cock up, i'm dead meat

 

[Doggit]

If you have an extra bit, then you can join 2 bits of worktop together at 90 degrees, and put in bolts and biscuits. But I'd say that 10cm is too short to work with.

 

[T-1000]

Doggit before I get excited and rush off and make more mistakes, I just want to make sure that I'm clear on everything

I have a U shaped kitchen
http://i.imgur.com/dFQEl6y.jpg

I was going to make the cut just like the pic.. However the female joint is 10cms too short to the wall

Following your suggestion ie join 2 bits of worktop together at 90 degree sounds great!

Would this mean that the female joint would now become the male joint? and vise versa?

also do you have a pic or video illustration? I'd like to be confident I set up the worktop in the right posoition i.e. face up/down

 

[Doggit]

Sorry T, I may not have got the idea over properly. My kitchen was 3.6m, and the worktop only 3m. I had a spare piece from the male piece, so I cut the "joint" at 90 degree square, and butted the 2 pieces together. But it was the other end that was the female corner joint for me. In you're case, you're going to be trying to add a 10cm piece on to the end of the female joint, so you've got to do some very careful routing. What's the size of you're kitchen, the length of the worktops, and the lengths of the pieces you've cut

Do you have any spare that would allow you to cut out the felmale joint, and change it to a male joint, and is there any spare on the male joint to slide it up, and turn it in to the female joint.

 

[T-1000]

Please ignore the crude nature of my illustrations.. I have drawn a mock up of the kitchen
http://imgur.com/a/mZcWI

Pic A is the actual kitchen

Pic B is how I envisaged your suggestion.. Please let me know if I got you wrong

I have the following worktops

2x 2.45m
1x 1.85m


Now if I cut/join the worktop like in pic b, I will have enough material...

I also found a vid on youtube where the guy appear to have joined one end of the worktop in the same way I probably should.. What are your thoughts?

at 1.17

 

[Doggit]

Use a 2.45 to the left, the second 2.45 for the sink, and then the shortest piece on the right.

Having looked that the video, I think the guys got a bit confused over everything. The 8.5mm he's referreing to, is the ofest you need on the jig, to make sure the router cuts at the right point. I think he was trying to say that in addition to the bolt cuts, you also want to use a couple of beech biscuits, to make sure that the joint goes together neatly, doesn't move up and down as the bolts get tightened, and has added strength. If you haven't got a biscuit cutter, then you can get cutters for the router.

You need to sort out the overhangs first, and always be careful which way you cut into the worktop, as the cutter must always cut into it, not out of it, or the lamiate will break off.

But just in case you picked up the wrong video, try this one instead

 

[T-1000]

Doggit if I use the 2.45 for the sink and left side, that'll leave me with a gap of 1.9m for the right side and the shortest worktop is only 1.85m...

if i cut/join the worktops like picture B... the centre i.e. sink side would be approximately 1.5m ie enough for the shortest length

sorry if all of this is confusing

Edit

just watched some of the video you posted.. it is brilliant.. and i now have the confidence to proceed

cheers mate.. thanks for taking the time to answer my queries

 

[Doggit]

Sorry T, my maths is crap today. You're method is the most sensible, but it requires some pretty precision marking and cutting. If you do the left hand side, and sink piece, then you need to allow a few mm at the back of the RH piece for wiggle room - this'll get covered up by the tiles, so should be fine. You'd cut the female joint on the RH side, then cut the male joint a couple of mm less, or you'll never get the joint together. Do you have the ability to chase out the wall on the RH side, so that piece can slot into it.

Otherwise, you take 500mm from the waste of the LH Piece, and add it to the RH one with a butt joint.

 

[T-1000]

Doggit, you literally saved my life

Worktops are in.. just need to finish the cut outs for the sink and hob

Thank you.