Would I be able to add a socket to this?

[BobbyBrown]

Hi all,

I'm prepping my utility room for when the kitchen fitter arrives. I currently have two separate fused connections on the rear wall, one for each socket under the worktop. Before I get a sparky round I'd like to know whether it would be possible to add a single socket next to this by connecting to it? I'm guessing it comes from the ring main as there are no sockets nearby that it can be spurred off.

 

[winston1]

You don't need a fused connection unit for a socket under the worktop as the plug that goes into it has a fuse.

So replace the fcu with a socket with the one underneath spurred of it. Simples.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

You really need to know where the supplies for those FCUs is coming from (electrically and physically). If that FCU is actually on the RFC then yes you can, if it isn't (say there's a single drop from the RFC feeding it) then no you can't but you can connect your new socket to the switched side of the FCU.

Winston1's solution is also good (again provided the FCU is on the RFC) but I find it very handy being able to isolate fridge, freezer, washing machine, dryer for mending or fishing rubbish out of the innards or just plain old defrosting

 

[BobbyBrown]

Cheers for the info. I can see the benefit of having the isolating switch, especially as it's going to be an in-frame cabinet that the washing machine is being built into. The feed seems to drop from the ceiling and is on a separate fuse on the consumer unit. I think I'll get another socket connected to the switched side. Thanks again.

 

[winston1]

Cheers for the info. I can see the benefit of having the isolating switch, especially as it's going to be an in-frame cabinet that the washing machine is being built into. The feed seems to drop from the ceiling and is on a separate fuse on the consumer unit. I think I'll get another socket connected to the switched side. Thanks again.

In that case have an isolating switch not a fused connection unit.

Though if as you say it is a separate circuit on the CU what is wrong with isolating it at the CU on the rare occasions it is required.

 

[BobbyBrown]

In that case have an isolating switch not a fused connection unit.

Though if as you say it is a separate circuit on the CU what is wrong with isolating it at the CU on the rare occasions it is required.

Very good point, I don't want it to look like this house on Rightmove

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Cheers for the info. I can see the benefit of having the isolating switch, especially as it's going to be an in-frame cabinet that the washing machine is being built into. The feed seems to drop from the ceiling and is on a separate fuse on the consumer unit. I think I'll get another socket connected to the switched side. Thanks again.

Fuse or circuit breaker? Whichever, if it is rated at 20A then you're looking at a radial rather than a ring & you can carry out your original plan (if you still want to).

 

[JohnW2]

Very good point, I don't want it to look like this house on Rightmove

Particularly if they are wonky! ...

Kind Regards, John

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Particularly if they are wonky! ...
View attachment 181205

Kind Regards, John

I thought I was over the top with sockets but that house is insane....must have had a massive telly bolted to every wall in every room

 

[JohnW2]

I thought I was over the top with sockets but that house is insane....must have had a massive telly bolted to every wall in every room

That was my first reaction, too, but on reflection I realised that some of my larger rooms probably have as many (or almost as many) sockets as that - but they are much less conspicuous. Even that room in the piccie would look very different if it were furnished and if, as you say, had a TV (or whatever) or two on the walls.

Of course, 'Part M' has got a fair bit to answer for - the great majority of my sockets are pretty 'low down' and hence fairly easily obscured by furniture etc.

Kind Regards, John