24V LED strips with 3014 LEDs

[ban-all-sheds]

Anybody have any experience of them, and how they compare to 3528 or 5050 based products?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

[BUMP]

I guess the answer is "No", but JIC....

[/BUMP]

 

[RF Lighting]

I don't understand the question

Do the numbers relate to colour temperature?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

No - the type of LED

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=smd+3014+3528+5050

 

[mfarrow]

The size of the LED chip should not matter, in the same way as whether you choose an 0805 or a 0603 resistor or capacitor. The only thing I can think of is that the heat dissipation will be better the larger the chip, but of course it also means you may get a more powerful LED.

Most people will not know or notice the difference, and as I've never seen any fitting being advertised as such, I'll throw the question back as to how you know or care?

To me the most important consideration is the manufacturer, colour temperature, lumens per watt, longevity, and dimming capability. Probably in that order.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

as I've never seen any fitting being advertised as such,

AFAICT, all* LED strip vendors do tell you what their strips use.

I'll throw the question back as to how you know or care?

I know because they tell me, I care because I want to understand the +/- of different technology.

To me the most important consideration is the manufacturer,

They all* look the same, and they are all* sold by people who don't make them, which makes me think there aren't many makers.

colour temperature,

Irrelevant unless the colour I want is not available out of a particular LED.

lumens per watt,

Or lm/m?

longevity

They all* quote the same 50,000 hours.

and dimming capability

Irrelevant unless a particular LED cannot be dimmed. Anyway - isn't that a function of the driver, either designed to output variable width pulses or not?

Probably in that order.

Actually dimming is essential to me.



* Or nearly all.

 

[big-all]

i have helped my brother with several off the single led in a white square bit off plastic in cut off 3 strips making each one 4v[3 in parallel] giving 12v
they are very very voltage sensitive so dimming could be achieved possibly by say 9-12v range
i have several combinations off single leds in series running off tool batteries ranging from 10,8v[12v9seg single] 18[2x12v9 seg in series] 18v [6x3vin series 2 sets] 24v [8x3v in series] 24v [1x34v] same as the 12v but 9 segments within the led are wired in series to give 34v rather than 3 lots off 3 in series in parallel giving 12v

what i did notice was a battery that will power a drill for quite a while will not light the leds but a battery that will give out a bright light will not have enough power to turn the drill when the lights dim

so the natural assumption is the batteries that wont light the leds but power the drill have one or more cells out giving low voltage but enough ah
where as the battery that hold full voltage on all cells but a very low current will run the leds for ages but not turn the drill

 

[bernardgreen]

they are very very voltage sensitive so dimming could be achieved possibly by say 9-12v range

LEDs are dimmed by controlling the CURRENT through them.

Controlling the voltage applied to the LED's terminals does appear to work but the current is then controlled only by the small internal resistance of the LED. Depending on type of LED that resistance varies with both current and temperature. This resistance can reduce with increasing current which leads to run away current leading to destruction of the LED. Some LEDs will break down if the forward voltage ( the direction that makes the LED light ) is a made to be a few tenths of a volt above the voltage the LED has when carrying its maximum peak current.

 

[big-all]

they are very very voltage sensitive so dimming could be achieved possibly by say 9-12v range

LEDs are dimmed by controlling the CURRENT through them.

Controlling the voltage applied to the LED's terminals does appear to work but the current is then controlled only by the small internal resistance of the LED. Depending on type of LED that resistance varies with both current and temperature. This resistance can reduce with increasing current which leads to run away current leading to destruction of the LED. Some LEDs will break down if the forward voltage ( the direction that makes the LED light ) is a made to be a few tenths of a volt above the voltage the LED has when carrying its maximum peak current.

thats interesting a battery that will not even light up an led will happily drill a hole in wood
yet a battery that will give say 50% light output will turn the drill about 1/4 turn then stop
i allow for the batteries over volting by around 20% when charged hence the 24v on a 29-34v led or 2x9-12v on an 18v battery in general they give decent light for several hours and around 30-50% light for up to 3 or 4 days

the only one that could overload voltage wise is the 10.8 as 20% is 13v and i am aware off this so dont use that setup for more than a few mins
i have run it to flatten the battery a couple off times and it only lasts around 75 mins for a 1.3ah bosch blue battery

all the leds are fixed to a 6" ally section from a bar clamp as a heat sink and because its a sort off box section with open back it slides over a wooden bracket with small slots to accommodate the lips on the back

 

[bernardgreen]

Are you talking about naked LEDs ( connecting directly to the LED that has no control electronics in the die ) or an LED lamp with a driver module.

thats interesting a battery that will not even light up an led will happily drill a hole in wood

The voltage of the battery is too low to light the LED ( probably due to a controller of some sort ) but can turn the drill.

yet a battery that will give say 50% light output will turn the drill about 1/4 turn then stop

The voltage is high enough to get current through the LED but the capacity of the battery is too small to supply enough current to the motor.

 

[big-all]

its a very simple set up as in leds wire and crock clips no electronics other than the leds

this sort
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-10W-Wa...mponents_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item5aec0ffe54

and this sort
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pcs-1W...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item45fa191688
and this sort
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3X-LED-Li...3502976?pt=UK_Light_Bulbs&hash=item23291b3000

 

[333rocky333]

I know there not what your on about in this post but i recall recently elsewhere you said you wernt too keen on the stick on type fixing of leds
These seem to be in most wholesalers and look pretty good and have proper clips although I cant vouch for the quality

My general experience of all things adhesive is that I would be wary of using self-adhesive strips in a kitchen, and concerned that over the long term (years) they would not stay stuck, and would prefer some kind of mechanical fixing.

http://www.e-tradecounter.co.uk/p-1...variant=9162&gclid=CJ7oobL0nbYCFUfMtAodxjkAUw

 

[ban-all-sheds]

These aren't for a kitchen, so I'm less concerned about sticky-backed ones.

 

[mattylad]

BAS - what are you planning on doing with them?

 

[bernardgreen]

its a very simple set up as in leds wire and crock clips no electronics other than the leds

The first one appears to be 9 LED elements assembled into a module. It is possible ( probable ) that those multi-element lamps have current control circuitry in the assembly. In which case the supply voltage is not critical in terms of setting current through the LED elements but is limited by the dissapation of the excess heat generated by excess voltage.