Central heating thermostat advice

[Whitling2k]

that sounds like good news - and will tie me over for a few years until I start work on that part of the house and install new cable.

I'll post a picture of the wiring centre when I get a few mins if anyone would mind giving me a hand still?

 

[D_Hailsham]

You won't be the first new parent who thinks, incorrectly, that a baby must be kept warm at night. This might help:

Don’t let your baby get too hot (or too cold)

Overheating can increase the risk of cot death. Babies can overheat because of too much bedding or clothing, or because the room is too hot.

When you check your baby, make sure they're not too hot. If your baby is sweating or their tummy feels hot to the touch, take off some of the bedding. Don’t worry if your baby’s hands or feet feel cool. This is normal.

It's easier to adjust for the temperature by using lightweight blankets. Remember, a folded blanket counts as two blankets.

Babies don't need hot rooms. All-night heating is rarely necessary. Keep the room at a temperature that's comfortable for you at night. About 18°C (65°F) is comfortable.

If it's very warm, your baby may not need any bedclothes other than a sheet.

Even in winter, most babies who are unwell or feverish don't need extra clothes.

Babies should never sleep with a hot-water bottle or electric blanket, next to a radiator, heater or fire, or in direct sunshine.

Babies lose excess heat through their heads, so make sure their heads can't be covered by bedclothes during sleep periods.

Remove hats and extra clothing as soon as you come indoors or enter a warm car, bus or train, even if it means waking your baby

 

[Dan Robinson]

I don't think my boy's radiator had ever been on. His last bedroom which he was in fire his first 3 years wasn't very well insulated either.

Babies generate a lot of heat.

They also don't break as easily as newly expectant parents fear.


Enjoy the first 6 months! 😅

 

[Whitling2k]

Thanks for the tips guys - I really do understand what you're saying. last winter (a mild one relatively speaking) our rooms frequently got as low as 8-9 degrees with the heating off, or 20+ with the heating on.

Because of the thermostat position there was no switching, if the heating timer was on, the house would get warmer and warmer and never click off by the thermostat.

so my plan is to put it in a sensible place that would stop the house getting less than say 15-16, but not make it stupidly warm.

I liked to set my thermostat to click in at around 16-17 degrees in previous houses.

I see what you're saying - I'm not planning on letting the baby cook - but if we're that cold in a mild winter, I need to do something - even if it's so I don'f freeze mi goolies off when getting it for feeding!

 

[Whitespirit66]

Yes you can use those existing wires.

The red is live, yellow is switch live and blue is neutral. When you wire the receiver use the red as live but also put a link wire between said live and the remaining switch position.

Simples although not technically the correct way to do it because on the time clock you would need central heating on constant to keep the live "live" all the time to keep the receiver and stat paired up.

If using this method, best to buy a programmable stat. Leave the heating on constant on the existing programmer, and control ch timings with the new stat.

 

[Whitling2k]

Hello. Thanks for your advice. Upon tracing the wires in and out of the boiler - there is a handy box on the wall that I could use to locate the receiver. If reception is an issue - I will work that out later!

As promised - pictures. I've summarised it into a colour coded diagram too & I have added a diagram found in an on-line installers manual for my boiler.

So - if I were to sit a new wireless programmable thermostat in the switch box next to the boiler - what type of programmable thermostat would I need? I assume I would need to set the clock / controls on the front of the boiler to "always on" too.

Thanks for your replies so far!

whitling2k

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[kbdiy]

It never ceases to amaze me how cosseted babies and children are these days. It seems to be the norm that they have to be kept in a heated house day and night and run to the doctor or hospital at the slightest sniffle.

I spent the first 4 yrs of my life in an unheated house, apart from coal fire in the lounge. The walls of the bedroom ran with condensation and ice used to form on the inside when it got really cold. Then we moved to a new house, still without central heating for many years after.

60 yrs on and I'm still here, so it can't have been so bad.

 

[Whitling2k]

It never ceases to amaze me how cosseted babies and children are these days. It seems to be the norm that they have to be kept in a heated house day and night and run to the doctor or hospital at the slightest sniffle.

I spent the first 4 yrs of my life in an unheated house, apart from coal fire in the lounge. The walls of the bedroom ran with condensation and ice used to form on the inside when it got really cold. Then we moved to a new house, still without central heating for many years after.

60 yrs on and I'm still here, so it can't have been so bad.

thermostat's knackered, in a stupid place and the house feels cold. will people stop judging me on how I'm going to look after our baby because I want to replace the aforementioned knackered, badly placed thermostat!

I also want to replace it because the gas bill was huge last winter - again due to the bad placement of the aforementioned thermostat.

FWIW I have no intention of mollycoddling the baby, I hate going to Drs and hopsitals to get cottered up with OAPs and Fatties too stupid/proud to look after themselves, not to mention NHS timewasters.

Now please can we discuss the heating / thermostat?

 

[shray]

Why don't folk just leave this guy to father his child however the **** he wants, it is absolutely no one elses business !

 

[Whitespirit66]

Now please can we discuss the heating / thermostat?

Bet you wished you'd never mentioned the baby!

Anyway, your existing stat is wired into block ST8 - black, red and blue wires. These would need removing.

The new stat's receiver has 4 wires. The first 2 are the permanent 240V live and neutral that can either be connected to share the terminals in the '230' block (red and blue wires) or wired into L and N connections in the boiler's fused spur..

The other two wires in receiver will be connected to Ls and Lr (middle 2 connectors) on the ST8 block. Any way around - not important for the order on these 2 wires.

If you are using the boiler's timer for the ch timings, you just need a wireless stat, not a programmable version. This one can be either wall or table mounted, in case you want to move from room to room.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-m...tracking url&gclid=CKGXqMz66r8CFfOhtAodTGoAYg

P. S. Have you ever read this book?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Spocks-Baby-Childcare-Benjamin-Spock/dp/067102194X

 

[Whitling2k]

Whitespirit66: perhaps you should read: this? hehe

your post made me smile!

baby care politics aside - I opted for this one. It would be grand if someone can help me translate between the instructions and the boiler terminals' Ns, Ls & Lr!

I'll repost something when I get chance to look into it again.

P.S. if I rewire from the boiler correctly, and give the new prog'-t-stat a permanent live - can I still use the boilers built in time programmer as well as the Drayton?

Whitling2k?



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[D_Hailsham]

It would be grand if someone can help me translate between the instructions and the boiler terminals' Ns, Ls & Lr

Ls = L
Ns = N
Lr = 3

You also need to connect Ls to Common, but this can be done by linking L to Common at the receiver.

can I still use the boiler's built in time programmer as well as the Drayton?

Why would you want to do that?

Does the clock actually do anything? It does not appear to be wired as in the bottom diagram on Fig 13 - there are no wires to the "Spare" terminal.

According to your diagram the existing stat controls the boiler directly.

As the clock will be redundant, it is best to disconnect it.